Wax finishing tool

[SuperCracker]

After seeing the talk in another thread about working melted beeswax into the wood for a finish I wanted to throw this out there.

Any of you guys ever try making up something like this for working in a wax finish? I think I might have to give it a try.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/my-introduction-to-the-polissoir-roubos-wax-polisher

Certainly PC/HC and wouldn't cost much.



The polisher, figures 8 & 9, is a sheaf of ordinary grass or straw, about 4 thumbs long, by about 2 thumbs in diameter. This sheaf is bound tightly along its length.  Before making use of it, one soaks it in molten wax, which one lets cool, after which one rubs the polish on a piece of wood to smooth it and make it proper to polish the work. There are polishers of diverse forms and sizes, in order to be able to get into all parts, nooks and crannies. [This tool has the unusual benefit of both smoothing the surface by burnishing and applying a wax coating to create a glossy finish.]

“The wood burnishers for polishing, figures 10, 11, 12, are of small pieces of walnut or another wood of a fine and closed grain, without being too hard, of about 6 thumbs of length at least, which are of various sizes and shapes, and thin to a bevel at the end. These woods serve to polish the work, or better said, to extend the wax into the creases and tight parts in which the polishes cannot go, like fillet-work and other little pieces where it is necessary to keep the sharp edges.”

[Mark Elliott]

The very easiest way to do this is heat the stock with a heat gun or other heat source of your choice.   It doesn't need to be very hot.   Then, you just rub your block of beeswax on the hot stock, melting the wax.    Keep doing this until the wood won't absorb anymore wax.   Then just rub with a course cloth or white ScotchBrite pad to a high gloss.   You will then have a stock that is perfectly sealed against moisture in an HC manner.  This was a favorite finishing technique of Gary Brumfield.    I haven't done it since I was a kid.   I really don't know why.   It is certainly faster than an oil finish that dries slowly and is a LOT more water proof.   Gary also like to dissolve tar in turpentine for a stain as an alternative to AF.    Both of these are certainly HC and a lot less trouble than what we normally do.   You can get a much darker color with AF.    Given the problem I have had of late getting oil to dry,  I am going to have to seriously consider why I don't use beeswax as a finish over stain.   I put wax on the top of oil,  and I have a lot of beeswax.   

[KLMoors]

I've never tried the beeswax finish. But is sure does make a nice looking finish.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I bought one of the tools.

Here is more than you ever wanted to know about finishes from the Smithsonian Institute:

http://www.si.edu/mci/english/learn_more/taking_care/coatings.html

[Dennis Glazener]

"Given the problem I have had of late getting oil to dry"

A few drops of Japan Dryer will take care of that. Or use Chambers Oil Finish and not have the problem to begin with.
Dennis

[Mark Elliott]

Dennis,

I do have the appropriate amount of Japan Drier added to my standard gunstock finish.    I also cut my finish with turpentine to penetrate and build up the layers even faster.   I also apply oil finish very thinly.  Usually a drop of oil on my fingertip does an whole side of a stock.   However,  with 80% plus humidity in my shop this past week and the lack of sun for the UV necessary to precipitate polymerization,  it was taking several days for a thin coat of finish or a black wash to dry.   I have also tried dehumidifiers before, but they struggle to maintain 60% in the Summer and they don't last more than a couple of years.   If anyone has any other suggestions,  I would appreciate it. 

[Dennis Glazener]

Last week I put two coats of Chambers Oil Finish on my Fowler stock. Both dried overnight in my basement shop where its normally 80+% humidity. I rubbed both coats down with 0000 steel wool the next day. Have been too busy to do any more. Will put at least one more on and probably 2 more. Never had any problems with it drying.

Now I had a mixture made up that Earl Lanning gave me the recipe for. It used Linseed oil and turpentine "mulled" for several hours with a "hand full" of corroded lead bullets (for the lead oxide dryer). Now that was a great finish but it took several days to dry so I added a few drops of Japan Dryer and it would dry overnight! Good stuff, need to make another batch but to be honest I like Chambers Oil just as well.
Dennis

[Ryan McNabb]

I think the best and most convenient way to use beeswax as a finish is to mix it back while warm with turpentine until it's soft like shoe polish.  I wipe it on, or use a toothbrush if there's carving, usually only onto a plain oil substrate finish, then rub it in with a cloth.  I have used a hair dryer on a low setting to warm the stock and I've sat it on the warming shelf of the cook stove in the kitchen, but I've also just used it like floor wax...wax on...wax off...to give a great finish.  Putting it on while melted is a mess and if you get the stock too warm you cook as much finish out of the surface as you put in.  It's a thin finish that will need to be maintained regularly, so think about it like you would shoe polish.  After years, I'm sure the wax really gets in there but the concept of a thick, deep penetrating finish is not borne out by reality I don't think. 

Wood doesn't need to be embalmed, it just needs a raincoat.

[Mark Elliott]

Usually,  my finish dries in a few hours, but the last week or so,  everything is drying very slowly.   It has been the first real Summer weather that we have had.   I just assumed it was the high humidity.  Is there an expiration on Japan Drier.    All my materials are very old.   Also,  adding lamp black artists oils to the mix slows down the drying.