Author Topic: poured inlay/ infill  (Read 5371 times)

Offline Nordnecker

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1244
poured inlay/ infill
« on: September 25, 2014, 02:40:28 PM »
My next gun is gonna have poured pewter inlay/infill- diamonds, crescent moons, stars and such. So I thought I'd practice on a scrap. I chiseled out a nice little diamond, undercutting the edges. I used a # 2 pecil around the depression, then melted some lead free solder in a spoon.
The melted solder just blobbed up and sat there. It wasn't smooth, it was grainy like sand. Maybe I got it too hot???
So, I dug it out and tried again. Put a little flux in the spoon and melted some more. I tried to pre-heat the wooden area, but it still didn't fill the depression. I mashed it in there with the spoon and it sort of worked. I gently tapped the cooling metal with a small ball peen hammer.
I let it cool and filed it flush with the wood. The solder didn't quite fill the corners, but felt tight and solid in the hole.
I tried a crescent moon and it was a disaster. I'm only chiseling about 1/16" deep.
Any ideas as to what I might try to do to make this work better?
"I can no longer stand back and allow communist infiltration, communist indoctrination and the international communist conspiracy to sap and impurify our precious bodily fluids."- Gen Jack T. Ripper

Offline stuart cee dub

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 461
Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2014, 05:09:39 PM »
Pouring in an inlay is unusual ,but that aside if I were to try it .I would build a dam (a ''tinkers dam'' actually ) around and a bit above the area you wish to pour into .
After cooling file off the excess much as one would if you were pouring a nose cap.
Like casting a bullet you need to keep pouring even after the mold is full,filling it out and not letting it cool too quickly  .

From your brief description it sounds like you are trying to pour to the desired finish level or not much above it .Am I envisioning this correctly ?

Secondly what are you using for pewter ? I have poured quite a few nosecaps using Track's non toxic alloy and never had an issue .But I have also heard that some have tried cutting up and melting second hand pewter tankards (the ones with the glass bottoms ) with some success .Might be your solder is not the alloy to use .

Regards Stuart
  
« Last Edit: September 25, 2014, 05:12:30 PM by stuart cee dub »

Offline Captchee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 768
Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2014, 05:24:39 PM »
     In order for the  pour to flow in  the bed , you have to have pressure forcing the flow  into the bed  ..
  One way of creating that pressure  is to  create a dam/ reservoir above the bed . The result is that the  liquid  creates weight .  This weight creates pressure on the  pour below it , forcing it into the bed .

 Myself , I seldom  do pours for inlays . You get a much nicer job  and its a lot quicker to just do an inlay . But there are some cases where I have poured right to the stock . Mostly for nose caps , Tang inlays .

 First :I don’t under cut . The reason for that is that the pour  will need to be filed down . Ifthe pour did not fully flow tightly into the under cut , when you file and clean things up , you will find a hole .
 Instead what I do is  use a couple small   large  head pins in the bottom of the bed , just off the bottom  of the bed , Or  drill a couple interlocking  holes .

Second : I  take a pencil and  coat the  sides and any small areas with the carbon / lead  . This helps the  pour flow more easily into the small areas .

Third :  I  let the detail of the  bed , dictate the size of the reservoir. The greater the  detail ,  the larger the reservoir. For higher fine detail or when  I am  doing a pour that’s around another  material , like Brass ,  I’ll sometimes make the reservoir  large enough to hold 2-3 times   what’s  needed  to fill the bed
.In doing so  you actually can get very fine detail .

 So lets say im doing a pewter  inlay  around a tang   to hide ???? Well in this case an issue “????“on a cheep pistol .


 Ill  draw my design . Carve out the bed . Then using  a piece of cardboard  card stock ,  tape it a tightly to the stock  so as to make a cup   that will hold the pour to the tang area . While at the same time , creating a reservoir. It must be tight  so that it will not leak .
 In this cae the photo is of a nose cap pour , but  it’s the same  for a tang . Just picture  the  resulting cup looking more like a  swallow/ birds nest built against a  wall .


 With the  barrel and tang   in place , I then pour the pewter  into the cup .  Tell full .  Once  cool I remove the  cardboard. Then clean up the inlay  by filing and sanding it to shape .

 





 With alittle practice  and a mind to keeping  the needed weight/ pressure , so as to force the pour into the  small  shape details , one can actually cast  smaller , finer shapes  right on the stock .







 As I said in the beginning , I don’t do this much . Its a lot harder to  do and do right  then just  inletting a  something into the wood

Online Bob Roller

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9692
Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2014, 05:29:03 PM »
Proof beyond doubt that a silk purse comes from a sows ear.
Bob Roller

Offline Captchee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 768
Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2014, 05:29:30 PM »
OOOPS . i see a post was made while i was posting .
when it comes to  pewter , I  reclaim pewter from  items like  belt buckles ,  old dishes . Candle sticks ….. Or as was suggested tankards. The thing is though you want to make sure  what your melting down isn’t   worth  a lot of money . Some of the older pewter   items are  getting rather valuable  

Offline Captchee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 768
Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2014, 05:32:15 PM »
Proof beyond doubt that a silk purse comes from a sows ear.
Bob Roller

LOL , thank Bob .
 but  there was a whole lot of labrador  piles on the ground  prior to  figuring out how to  ring a couple strands of silk from all that sows ear LOL

Online Bob Roller

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9692
Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #6 on: September 25, 2014, 06:07:00 PM »
Captchee,
From Germany comes a saying that sorta translates as "From $#@*,gold you can not make".
You have come close to laying this aside as fiction.Fine doin's.

Bob Roller

Offline Hungry Horse

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5565
Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #7 on: September 25, 2014, 06:15:33 PM »
 I am glad I am not the only person investing precious time on one of these entry level kit guns. I use them to experiment on, before I try a technique on an expensive piece of wood or expensive barrel. I enjoy giving them to some young, bright eyed pilgrim, just to see their reaction.

                Hungry Horse

John C IND

  • Guest
Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2014, 04:16:32 AM »
Old silverplated stuff like old banged up bowling trophies from the 1930's worked for me on a poured forend tip.
A local junkyard had a barrel of 'em when I was a kid.

Offline Acer Saccharum

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 19311
    • Thomas  A Curran
Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2014, 04:54:06 AM »
I have found fluxing the melt with plumber's rosin flux helps tremendously in getting a nice clean, easy pour.
Tom Curran's web site : http://monstermachineshop.net
Ramrod scrapers are all sold out.

Offline Dphariss

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9920
  • Kill a Commie for your Mommy
00
« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2014, 05:48:37 AM »
My next gun is gonna have poured pewter inlay/infill- diamonds, crescent moons, stars and such. So I thought I'd practice on a scrap. I chiseled out a nice little diamond, undercutting the edges. I used a # 2 pecil around the depression, then melted some lead free solder in a spoon.
The melted solder just blobbed up and sat there. It wasn't smooth, it was grainy like sand. Maybe I got it too hot???
So, I dug it out and tried again. Put a little flux in the spoon and melted some more. I tried to pre-heat the wooden area, but it still didn't fill the depression. I mashed it in there with the spoon and it sort of worked. I gently tapped the cooling metal with a small ball peen hammer.
I let it cool and filed it flush with the wood. The solder didn't quite fill the corners, but felt tight and solid in the hole.
I tried a crescent moon and it was a disaster. I'm only chiseling about 1/16" deep.
Any ideas as to what I might try to do to make this work better?

Some lead free solders don't pour well. I use Silva-Bright 100. But all these are fairly high temp you might try pure tine. You will have to build a dam around the inlay to give some head pressure. It might also be necessary to leave the metal a little high then burnish to fill the inlet then final shape. I don't like doing inlays like this and the higher temps of the various lead free solders will not make it easier.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine