Soldering German silver

[A. Cooper]

Should German silver be soldered with low temp solder or silver solder? Thanks

[B.Habermehl]

It really depends on the strength required and the amount of surface area the joint has. BJH

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

BJH is right on.  Either is easy to do.  Treat it just like brass.  Be careful bring up the heat if silver soldering...dull red is all you want.  GS disintegrates much past that temp.

[smylee grouch]

There are more than one kind of silver solder. Some dont need as much heat as others. I have used silver solder to fasten pins to the bottom of german silver inlays and havent had any problems on the few that I have done.

[A. Cooper]

Thanks for the guidance. I think I'll try the silver solder; I had concerns that the heat might be excessive for German silver.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Flux it well, and bring the heat up until the solder flows.  Then take the heat away immediately.  Go easy on the amount of solder.

[Acer Saccharum]

cut a scrap of german silver, and a piece of solder. flux both and heat them to the same temp. If the solder melts, and the g. silver doesn't, you have a good set up.

[Acer Saccharum]

The worst thing for soldering/brazing is too much heat. Once the flux is overheated, nothing will work until you've cooled the work down, cleaned it up, and start over.

Definitely use the right flux for your solder. brownell's is really good about supplying the right stuff, as is a local welding supply.

[flinchrocket]

There are more than one kind of silver solder. Some dont need as much heat as others. I have used silver solder to fasten pins to the bottom of german silver inlays and havent had any problems on the few that I have done.

Smylee! When you fasten pins to your inlays do you make something like a staple or a tack?

[A. Cooper]

Thanks for the help. I used silver solder with success; well sort of. I made the amateurs mistake of using too much solder so my clean-up was more involved than necessary.

[Robby]

I hammer out the silver solder to wafer thin, on a good clean surface. I still takes the same amount of heat to melt it, but reduces the amount of time heat is applied, by a lot, lessening the chances of scorching the flux.
Robby

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Robby, that is a good trick to avoid using too much solder.  The joint should be a molecular bond to be its strongest, and so very very little solder is required.  Another 'trick' is to cut off the amount of solder you think is required, and place it in the flux at the joint.  When the temp is right, it will flow, create a perfect fillet, and give a nice result.

[smylee grouch]

Flinchrocket: on the few I did, I used brass and flattened the end and bent it over so just a small amount of the flat was available to lay against the bottom of the inlay, tinned both bottom of inlay and flat of pin, clamped together and heated till solder flowed. The most difficult part was to drill small hole in bottom of inlet so pins lined up. Hope I explained it so that it makes sense.

[flinchrocket]

Yep, I understand what yer sayin Smylee. Thanks

[sydney]

Hi--silver soldier is also available in a thin flat ribbon about 1" x 4" from
         jewelry supply stores
       It s available in several melting temperatures
       You clean,flux and cut a piece to suit the joint
        clamp or hold pieces together and heat
        Easy to use and you get o perfect joint
          Sydney