wooden rifle cases

[snapper]

I am in the process of building 2 cases, one out of walnut, the other out of hickory.  Both boxes are in the process of being built.  The one in the pictures is the walnut box.   The hickory box still needs more sanding and the lid cut off.

I have some of the hardware on hand, but still need to order the handles and locks.  Green pool table felt will be used to line both cases.

Piano hinges will most likely be installed today for both boxes.

The partition boards shown in the pictures are still loose, I was just playing around yesterday with what might work.

I do need to figure out how to how to hold the stock in place as well as the barrel.  Both of these cases will be used on target rifles that I am quite fond of and I don't want any damage to them or the sights.  I do plan on putting gun makers labels on the inside of the lids.  Still need to order them as well.

Any comments, pro or con are welcomed.  I am kinda feeling my way as I go.  Never built a gun case before.

So offer up some helpful suggestions.

thanks

Fleener

[smokinbuck]

I would use velcro straps to hold the stock and barrel in place. Definitly no buckles.
Mark

[snapper]

while I am not a 100% purist, I am staying way from the combination modern style lock and Velcro at this time would look out of place.  The thought did cross my mind however.  As well as a padded bottom and top of the lid. But I have not seen any originals like that either.

Thanks

Fleener

[P.W.Berkuta]

Nice  box & rifle -- I'll bet it will be heavy .

[Ky-Flinter]

Would it be possible to attach shaped and padded pieces of wood to the lid, so that when the lid is closed these pieces would press against the stock and barrel?  For this to work, the barrel compartment would probably need to be on the side opposite from the lid hinge.

-Ron

[smart dog]

Hi Snapper,
If you are interested in making historically correct cases, you might check out the following link to the ALR tutorial section:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=5339.0

It has 5 separate parts.

Some English cases for target rifles (e.g., Whitworth) were unlined and made of oak.  In all cases of which I am aware, piano hinges were not used.  Instead, 3-4  four- or six-screw stop butt hinges were installed.  Lining was almost always woolen baize or less often, velvet.  Modern pool felt is Ok but tends to have a shiny synthetic look unlike the originals.  The partitions were tapered so that the slot actually had a slight "V" cross section.  That allowed the gun to be set snugly into its space.  During the late percussion era, case hooks were usually sturdy flat brass with a straight shank, attached to the bottom, and recessed into the wood.  They had slots which engaged recessed studs attached to the lid.  Locks were typically 2-bar 2 or 4 screw case locks.  Also during this period, brass corner protectors were commonly used on the case.  Finally, the case slipped into a leather cover, or later had leather permanently attached to the case with carrying handles.

Good luck,

dave

[Kermit]

Agree 110% on piano hinges. Save them for pianos. Also agree on padded and shaped blocks in the lid. Kind of like the boxes for Fecker/Unertl/Lyman type scopes. If the box is lined, you may not need them--unless you plan to use the case for airline shipping (shudder!).

[snapper]

dave

thanks for the link to your case build, it certainly provided me some insight.  I have toyed with putting a taper on the partition boards.  I have seen old originals done both ways. 

I have been going back and forth if the lid should open up flat or just past 90 degrees.  I am starting to think I might use the stop hinges.

I am also toying with the idea on running the bottom of the box through the table saw and reducing the over all inside height by a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.

thanks

fleener

[snapper]

the cases will be used for transporting the rifles to and from matches.  Not airline however.

I am looking at something that is somewhat traditional, functional, protective and looks nice.

I have slowed down the build of both boxes as I know I need to sort through some of these issues.

thanks

Fleener

[smylee grouch]

Some years ago I made one out of oak for my 40-65 BPCR  and lined it with brain tan deer. Several e-xta compartments for note book, sight inserts, etc. Brass corners on the out side and two thick leather straps with buckles. Nice thick leather hande. The handle streeched out over 25% when I lifted it the first time. The thing was a traveling vault and did keep the contents quit secure but was a real chore to transport.

[snapper]

This is the hickory case.  I got all the hardware ordered today.  The partition boards are just loose right now, playing with them.  Trying to figure out how to use the top half of the blocks with a semi circle can be used to keep the barrel from moving around.  The bottom half will be glued in.  I do not want to glue the other half to the top of the lid.

thanks

Fleener

[Steve-In]

Several examples here  http://www.drake.net/newantique
Lots of nice guns too.

[davebozell]

Not sure if this would be HC, but you could use leather or woven straps to tie the gun in place, in place of velcro. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Those are two very impressive rifles.  The first one sports a long range Soule tang sight, and looks good for at least 1000 yds., if it's a bullet rifle.

[Daryl]

Those are two very impressive rifles.  The first one sports a long range Soule tang sight, and looks good for at least 1000 yds., if it's a bullet rifle.

ditto

[snapper]

the first one is a kit gun from the Late Don Brown, sporting a Roller lock of coarse, and it is used out to 1000 yards.  .45 cal.

The second rifle in the hickory case is an original Rigby I picked up in 2014.  I have only shot it out to 100 yards, working up a load.  Had it out for two sessions, first session at 100 yards I was getting 2.5" groups, second session I was able to get the groups down to 1.25".  The sights should be able to get out to 1,000 yards on this rifle.

Fleener

[Ted Kramer]

Art-

The cases look great. Nice rifles too. I'd like to see you try to shoot 25 of my buffalo in 10 minutes with either.......!
 
On those barrel retaining blocks, if the lower block half is permanently fastened to the case bottom, put alignment pins in the blocks to keep the halves together, then let the closed lid hold the upper half snug against the lower. Slide the upper halves off the alignment pins when you open the lid to remove the barrel.

TK

[snapper]

Ted

I would like to see me do that as well!

On the blocks, you must be a genius as that is exactly what I did today.  I knew there was good reason I liked you.   Pined them, made them fit just below the bottom of the inside lid, and will simply pull the blocks of when the lid is open.  I think they turned out great, should work perfectly.  I like the idea on my barrel secured and not able to flop around.  Only took about 15 trys to get if figured out and right.....

I am at the point I need to wait for the hardware to come.  Might be several weeks before I get back to this project.  Got a tractor that needs worked on......

fleener

[Flint62Smoothie]

BE AWARE of what 'green felt' is used!

Sadly I do not know where to purchase the 'good stuff', but on a few CF forums I frequent, guys making cased pistols have complained that the green felt used nowadays is loaded w/ leftover salts or chemicals that will corrode a firearm.