I have a stock with the barrel inletted, and buttstock shaped for a generic Lancaster. I have the tang inletted, the lock and triggers. I am uncertain if too much wood remains below the lock. If I need to inlet the triggers deeper and slim down the stock below the lock, in the area of the triggers. Does someone have a diagram showing an ideal cross-section in this area? I know you will want a photo, but it is snowing and the rifle is out in the workshop. I don't walk well in the dark.
Thanks.
This all needs to be planned before any saw cuts are made to the blank or the barrel installed.
Determine where the breech end of the barrel will be. This requires a stock pattern the lay on the stock so as to lay out the basics. Draw the bottom line of the barrel on the stock. If its straight then a straight line can be drawn. If its a swamp simply draw a line that will intersect the breech and muzzle of the barrel. The straight taper line will work for lay out purposes. Now draw the line to indicate the middle of the side flat of the barrel.
Now draw in the web between the barrel and the rod channel/hole. On the stock pictured this is 3/16" since the finished rifle weighs 17 3/4 pounds.
Now draw in the rod hole.
Then lay the lockplate on the stock to determine where it will be based on the barrel placement.
This will tell you where the triggers, TG will be. Draw in the location of the sear and this will allow the trigger(s) to be planned for.
Now add 1/8" or a little more below the rod hole and draw a line there. This is the bottom line of the stock
Finalize the wrist and buttstock to properly mate with the lines already drawn so the profile looks right. This is what sets the depth at the triggers NOT the triggers.
Note that the "center of flat is at .600" rather than .750. This allows some error in the sawing and allows for removing the saw kerf. I true this up and bring it to where I want it as I set up to cut the channel. It also allows setting the front lock bolt in the right place so its not in the rod hole.
I sawed to the lines before drilling the rod hole. But I was SURE the groove was in the right place before starting to drill. IF the rod groove is not straight and parallel with the BORE (not the barrel exterior) the hole will not be where you want it at the breech end.
Not too bad for a 1 1/4" barrel and a 3/8 rod. Its a little smaller after carving and final smoothing.
Dan