Inletting a Swivel Breech action.

[pushboater]

Seeing as this is the first Swivel Breech I've ever built, I'm at a loss as to where to start in regards to inletting the Action.  I think I have a general Idea, however,  I'd really like some input from those who have actually been through the process.  If someone could please outline the steps they've taken in order to inlet the action it would be greatly appreciated.  Please correct me if I'm wrong, but my initial thoughts are that you square up and make sure that the rear swivel plate makes full contact with the front of the buttstock and then inlet the top tang strap in order to stabilize the rear swivel plate and more or less lock it into position.  From there you could probably inlet the side plates and then the trigger plate  and  trigger guard.  Again, any insight from those who have been through the process would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

Capt. David

[M. Wheland]

I would probably inlet the tang...then trigger plate.....then lock and side plate

[pushboater]

Thanks M. Wheland.  My thoughts on inleting the Lock and side plate before the trigger plate was being able to accurately locate the trigger in relation to the sear, but I guess one could inlet the Trigger Plate before the lock plate and then slot it for the Trigger after the Lock plate was inletted and the position of the sear was accurately determined.  Accurate placement of the trigger is Paramount for a light Trigger pull.  I appreciate your input   I must be pretty much on track with my thought process or else I would have had a few more replies to my post.  Thanks Again!

Capt. David

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I agree with Mark...inlet the upper tang first, then the trigger plate, which in effect, forms a lower tang.  Your trigger position will have already been established and cut in the trigger plate, because you made a blue-print of the rifle and laid oout everything before cutting any wood - right?
I have never (yet) inlet a swivel breech action, but I've done lots of double guns, and I think the process is very similar.  So, that would be the order of inletting for me at least.

[JDK]

I must be pretty much on track with my thought process or else I would have had a few more replies to my post.

Yep!  When good advice is given by someone as vetted as Mark right off the jump there's not much else for others to add.

If I may just expound a little for clarity.....I can't find my Waters' swivel breech book as much of my shop stuff is packed up for now, but my L. Day swivel breech action works unstocked....the trigger sear relationship is predetermined by the nature of the way the action is built.

The tang and trigger plates have a machine screw running between them that determines the wrist height for the stocker.  It is roughly the same as the breech height, so it makes perfect sense to inlet the tang and trigger plate first and then the lock and side plates.

Enjoy, J.D. 

[M. Wheland]

The swivel actions that I'm familiar with had straight tangs (bend to fit) requiring the builder to establish wrist architecture and also trigger placement. Once you've done this establish the location of the tang bolts so they don't interfere with trigger movement.
Square up the front of stock for good contact with swivel plate.
Inlet top tang then inlet lower tang and bolt together. This should eliminate any movement while inletting the lock and side plate.

[pushboater]

I used Dave Waters book as a general road map on how to build a Swivel Breech but I basically designed the Lock and built it from scratch.  I used the internal parts from an L&R Back action lock similar to David Price, but I didn't like the unusually long looking lock plate required if using the L&R Mainspring.  I thought about using the Clevis Block arrangement like Dave Waters but decided to go another route.  I designed a "U" shaped Mainspring which allowed me to shorten up the Lock Plate considerably.  It now looks more appropriate for the Bucks County Style rifle I'm attempting to build.  Since this is a Custom Lock there are no predetermined dimensions except for the Height and Width of the Swivel Plates.  On the other hand, I guess you could say that everything is predetermined as to my design and as such the trigger can only go in one place and still function properly.  Sounds like inletting the tang and trigger plate first is the proper way to proceed followed by the Lock and Side plates.  Thanks for everyone's input. 

Capt. David

[JTR]

Nicolas Hawk and others used a U shaped main spring, and it obviously worked well. My old Hawk still has a good bit of hammer snapping power 170 years later! And, still works!
I hope you post some progress pictures as you go.
John

[JDK]

Capt.  Nice work.  I like the proportions you've achieved there.  Good eye.  Keep us posted.

Enjoy, J.D.

[pushboater]

Thanks for everyone's input.  I moved last year and currently don't have a shop set up in which to work.  Much to my wife's dismay, I'm currently religated to working off the Kitchen table.  Needless to say, progress is slow.  When I can see some noticable progress i'll try and post a pic or two.  Thanks again Everyone!

Capt. David

[Longknife]

Dave, Just wedge that action in the fork of a tree and the tree will grow around it in no time!!!!  LOL....Have you made the swivel action yet? I still have that pioneer swivel kit if you want to take a look at it....Ed

[pushboater]

Ed, I'm in the process of finishing up on the action and have been working on the buttstock inletting the buttplate. I had my barrels turned octagon to round in order to take as much weight off as possible, and David Rase inletted the barrels and drilled the ramrod hole for me. Unfortunately, some of us still have to actually WORK for a living and don't have the luxury of being able to work on our projects as often as those lucky souls who call themselves RETIRED!  I'm actually moving along at what I would call a pretty good pace in that I've only been working on this one for about a year and a half! OK, maybe two years, but who's counting! 

Capt. David