Wooden sliding patchbox lids

[Shreckmeister]

I was just looking at a beautiful longrifle with a wooden sliding patchbox lid.  The butt was very nicely striped and the lid was also
nicely striped, but not at the same angles, so I was looking at the rifle and thinking it looked too busy.  My suggestion to a builder would
be that if the stock is nicely striped a plain sliding lid might actually have a better look.  What do you guys think?

[blackbruin]

Having a plain lid imho would make it a focal point instead of "balancing" things. 

[Kermit]

I have one with a plain sugar maple stock and used a piece of tight (almost burl) birdseye maple for the lid. In response to your observation, I notice quite a few lids that have the stripe angle at odds with the stripe in the stock. Some bother me more than others, but it's something I always notice. In an ideal world, I expect you would always have a plank thick enough to rip off a piece from where the box will go so the grain and color match well. If thin, a 2-piece lid might help make it work out.

[Stophel]

I can usually get a piece of wood to make the box lid from underneath the wrist/lock area.  Same grain side, same direction.  Unfortunately, that is not always possible, so you have to use the wood from the top where you "slabbed off" for the barrel inlet (I have cut wood off the side of the fore end before doing the barrel or rod channel just so I could get the wood grain to be on the same side.  Grain from another angle, like the top of the barrel, "shines" differently than the side of the stock, so the box lid can  stand out, and doesn't blend in well.  But if that's all you got, there's nothing you can do about that).

However, not having the curl/grain running in the same direction/angle as the grain on the side of the butt is absolutely inexcusable!    

[Jim Kibler]

In my view there wasn't any particular concern for matching grain or curl with wood box lids.  Oftentimes I find it most appealing to have a lid that is somewhat contrasting in appearance.  For example, a plainer lid with a fancier stock.  Or at least a lid with different figure.  I don't get too concerned where the wood comes from on the blank, though it will be a bit more stable if quarter sawn.

Jim

[M. Wheland]

I agree with Jim, I would highly recommend quarter sawn wood for the lid. I made one once with slab sawn wood and it warped. I like to keep the curl running the same general direction but I do like to see some contrast.
A wooden lid doesn't look right to me if the curl matches the stock perfectly.

I would also ask....Why does the lid need to come from the same blank as the rifle?

[Pete G.]

I agree with Jim, I would highly recommend quarter sawn wood for the lid. I made one once with slab sawn wood and it warped. I like to keep the curl running the same general direction but I do like to see some contrast.
A wooden lid doesn't look right to me if the curl matches the stock perfectly.

I would also ask....Why does the lid need to come from the same blank as the rifle?

Because it has a better chance of coming out the same color. Even then it can end up different and stick out like a sore thumb. There are good reasons why the wood boxes were replaced with something better.

[Jim Kibler]

Pete,

When you have enough experience coloring, staining, applying patina etc. it's no problem to adjust color if need be.  Most often it's not necessary.  Plus, a gun often gets layers of color in the finishing process and everything works itself out.    Mark does beautiful work and this should be reason enough to trust his methods and thoughts.  It's good to see him posting.

Jim

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I'll say!

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Yes indeed! Hey Mark!

Personally, I have seen perfectly matching matchboxes and wide variations.. some look great and some look weird.. for me if the color is close it usually looks good to me.........   

[Pete G.]

Not questioning anyone's methods. I only stated that when using the same wood it has a better chance of matching.