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Author Topic: Tricky spot to work in  (Read 3844 times)

Offline Cory Joe Stewart

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Tricky spot to work in
« on: March 02, 2015, 06:27:44 PM »
I have found that one of the trickier areas to work in is the area of the lock panel behind the cock.  Often material needs to be removed to allow for the cock to move.  Most of the images I have seen do not show any detail of this area since it is hidden.  Do any of you have suggestions or images on how yourselves and/or the original builders dealt with this area?

Coryjoe
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Offline Lucky R A

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Re: Tricky spot to work in
« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2015, 06:42:48 PM »
    Just remove the wood where the hammer stop on the cock contacts the wood.  It can be as simple as removing the wood from the rearmost travel of the cock forward, to cutting a neat little groove to allow the hammer stop to contact the top of the plate unimpeded.  The old timers did it both ways depending on the level of their skill and the cost level of the gun.

Ron
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Offline P.W.Berkuta

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Re: Tricky spot to work in
« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2015, 07:31:18 PM »
I agree with Lucky -- I set the lock on full cock and mark it's rear most travel then place the cock in it's forward most travel and mark it's position then remove the wood in between until the cock moves without interference.
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Offline Pete G.

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Re: Tricky spot to work in
« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2015, 07:34:09 PM »
I smoke the inboard side of the cock and then press the lock into its mortise. This leaves an impression of where the wood needs to be relieved. Remove enough wood until you get clearance, then do the same while bringing the lock to half cock.

Be very careful if you are using a round file for this and do not let it touch the outer face of the lock molding at the bottom. I guess you can figure out how I know that little detail....
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Offline Jerry V Lape

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Re: Tricky spot to work in
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2015, 07:40:55 AM »
Not to hard to mark the curved line with the inside edge of the cock pressed against the wood as you move the cock forward and back without the mainspring in the lock.  Then I use a small carving gouge to open the line into a neat groove to clear the cock.
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Offline conquerordie

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Re: Tricky spot to work in
« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2015, 02:26:41 PM »
Depending on the,gun I have simply tapered the wood from where the hammer is making contact foward to the point where the stock ends over the bolster. Its very gradual and not really noticed since the hammer rests there.
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Offline smart dog

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Re: Tricky spot to work in
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2015, 03:28:01 PM »
Hi CoryJoe,
I taper the molding down and in behind the cock to allow clearance.  Although many gunmakers cut notches, I don't care to do that.  You can see the molding narrowing down in the photo below.  It also tapers inward.

dave
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Offline rich pierce

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Re: Tricky spot to work in
« Reply #7 on: March 10, 2015, 03:52:02 PM »
I agree with Dave.  Often, maybe almost always, a notch can be avoided if the stock is properly tapered to match the barrel flats at the breech.
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