mortise and tenon semi takedown bench

[rich pierce]

I love Tom Caster's work bench in the Shop Tools section and hope to copy it with modifications.  I'd like to use traditional methods of joinery and yet make it possible to take it down later.  In other words no bolts or pinned mortise and tenon joints, but more solid than a true portable bench.

I roughed out a bench top of red oak, 12" x 4" thick x 4' long.
I roughed out 2 "legs" that are 12" wide x 2.5" thick x 42" tall.
I would use a stringer or shelf to stabilize it.

I was thinking of using 2 "rabbit ear" tenons on the legs that would come all the way through the top of the bench, stick up an additional 2" and be fastened by wedges

Kinda like this but I never took drawing.

[rich pierce]

I love Tom Caster's work bench in the Shop Tools section and hope to copy it with modifications.  I'd like to use traditional methods of joinery and yet make it possible to take it down later.  In other words no bolts or pinned mortise and tenon joints, but more solid than a true portable bench.

I roughed out a bench top of red oak, 12" x 4" thick x 4' long.  This is HEAVY, mister.
I roughed out 2 "legs" that are 12" wide x 2.5" thick x 42" tall.
I would use a stringer or shelf to stabilize it.

I was thinking of using 2 "rabbit ear" tenons on the legs that would come all the way through the top of the bench, stick up an additional 2" and be fastened by wedges

Kinda like this but I never took drawing.  Do you have other suggestions?  Am I much better off making it permanent by using true mortise and tenon and trunnel construction?  This is a green wood project.

[t.caster]

Can't wait for your drawing to arrive, and you are modifying it already.
Maybe I'll have to make up a second drawing as suggested. What I would do (maybe) is something different than the two tennons to hold the top on. These might break easily. I would take another piece similar to your shelf and mount it vertically (on edge) up under the top, attach it to the top permanantly however you want. Now cut a mortice through the legs near the top and fix with wedges, like the shelf is. Make any sense? I need to think this out in my head a little more.
I like your idea of having it break down...so you can take it to Dixon's & set up there, or any other show for that matter. We did that in the past, but it takes awhile to bolt it all together and take apart, this might be quicker.
I have built a number of tables and benches, even a water keg stand with this joinery and you are constantly tapping the wedges to keep them tight and stop the wobblies! So I am not sure how good it would be for a workbench...good design and fit is always crucial!

[Brian]

Your idea should work fine Rich.

I like the basic concept as well, and in fact got a copy of the plans and then made some modifications of my own to better suit my intentions.

The only "issue" I still have is with it's stability.  It's not very wide, even at the base, so it's going to be "tippy".  If you were doing any serious work on it (sawing, heavy rasping, etc) I am a bit concerned about it moving around a lot or even falling over.  Any movement at all is not going to be conducive to good cuts.   I"m thinking about making the base larger and detachable (for storage), and possibly even come up with some way to "lock" it into the floor when in use.  Bolts and drop pins - something like that?

Dunno - still working on the idea.  I love the basic idea of the bench though.

[t.caster]

Rich, see my comments to this in the "shop tools" section.
Did you know this topic is posted twice?

Brian, maybe you need some outriggers!   Yeah I can get it to rock sometimes, but not that often, so MOST (95%) the time it's not a problem. Of course I used rough sawn oak and it must weigh 80-100 lbs.

[rich pierce]

Good idea, Tom.  I'll keep brainstorming as I raid the woodpile for more stock.

[Bill of the 45th]

Rich, It should work, but may have one problem I ran into, when I designed one like it  as a camp table about 30 years ago.  The problem is it will rack.  I would put two of those turn buckles that you add to a door or fence gate.  You can use eyes, and s hooks to make it portable.  Put them diagonal to square up the ends, and make the bench rigid.  The table I designed had the cross bar built as a box the you could store stuff, an the legs slid into slots at the end of it.  Still have a couple copies of the book I wrote, and published it in.  I think I still have your address, I'll send you a copy of the plan.  If I can't find the address, I'll email you.  The original, was like a settle, but was designed to be portable for reinacting.

Bill

[BrianH]

Rich with a top that thick you could attach the legs with a tapered dovetail . you could stiffen the legs by turning the bottom stretchers so that it bears vertical on the legs with the mortise and tendon and wedge to pull it tight  hope this makes sense

Brian

[Acer Saccharum]

Rich, here is a sketch of a bench possibility. This uses a threaded rod to tighten the legs, which can accomodate the drying of the main plank.

On my takedown bench, I use ropes, in the 'Spanish Windlass' to tighten the legs.

[Acer Saccharum]

On my current bench, the legs sticking up past the top can be an occasional liability, but have, on other occasions, kept tools from rolling off onto the floor.

Most important is your vise attachment, and then the ability to have an adjustable height muzzle/barrel support two feet or more from the vise.

[rich pierce]

Looks good indeed.  Thanks for all these ideas guys.  I am blessed to have an ample supply of thick oak logs, ideas and good fellas to help me out!

[Acer Saccharum]

Some photos of my takedown bench. It's quite sturdy for its weight and size, due to the splayed legs. i'd say more weight, the better, tho' that can a detriment as you get older. The ropes tighten the clamp effect of the legs on the plank top. In the sketch in the previous post above, the notches in the plank to receive the legs would be a great boon for stiffness.

Two legs, bound for life by rope. In betwixt the legs, there is the stretcher, then the stick for tightening the rope. Note the lower leg lost the little nub at the top, chipped off during assembly/disassembly.



Top end of the leg, which slips over the plank. This is yellow pine, and the nub at the top can split off. I would change the
design of the leg to be more like the sketch, which would be much sturdier.





End view shows the tightening sticks. If they are too long, you cannot twist them up tight, as the table top is in the way. If too short, they will not stop against the table bottom.



This is the same idea, but uses threaded rods to tighten the legs. Also note the leg tops don't extend beyond the table top.

[bs2]

http://www.greydragon.org/furniture/benches.html

I have always liked the way this Table, [bench] locks together, and with a thick top and taller.......

[t.caster]

bs2, I have a set of table and benches someone made up very similar to the ones on greydragon, that I use at rondy when the wife goes with me. Trouble is they rack/wobble back and forth and the wedges work loose.