What solder?

[Mark Elliott]

I am pretty sure I have answered this for myself, but I thought I would double check here.    I have missing thimbles to replace on a mid 19th century half stock.   It looks like tin-lead solder was used originally.    I assume I should use the same to attach the replacement thimbles.    However,  I had wondered about using the 430F tin-silver solder.   I have a jewelers torch and can be pretty precise in my heat application.   I should also note that the rib is quite firmly attached and I don't want to have to re-solder it.  Let me know what you think.

I am just doing some light conservation work to this rifle.   It just needs a cleaning and the two forward thimbles.  It has a poured pewter ramrod entry.   

[BJH]

I replaced the wedge pin lug on my old double percussion shotgun. I used regular lead tin solder. Though I did tin the lug first. Of course I maniacally cleaned the joining surfaces between the barrels and used paste flux. I carefully heated the lug and barrels till the solder flowed keeping wet rags on either side of the joints. It is still holding after a good bit of shooting..BJH

[P.W.Berkuta]

Sounds like you have the right torch for the job --- if you use the 430F tin-silver solder the joint will probably not match the rest of the soldered joints but you might not lossen up any of the surrounding existing solder joints if careful with the torch. If you go with the solder of the approxmitly same tin/lead composition then the joint will look like the rest but you run the risk of "chasing" the other re-flowing soldered areas -- a real dilemma .

[smylee grouch]

Every one has his own opinion and I would use the lowest temp solder I could get by with. Tin the part with the solder and wrap it in place and heat to solder flow temp.

[jerrywh]

 I would use the tin silver solder. it is just as strong as the pure lead or more so. When I do jobs such as this I tin the rr thimble clean off the section of rib, Apply the flux to the rib and then I put an aluminum rod through the thimbles to hold them straight and wire everything in place.  That will hold the rib from moving even if the solder melts. You might have to apply just a tiny bit more solder to the joint when it flows but that is simple. If your worried about the solder flowing where it is not wanted just apply some anti flux where you don't want the solder to flow. The best anti flux is milk of magnesia or white out.

[Mark Elliott]

Thanks Jerry,  those are some very helpful tips.   I particularly appreciate the white-out use.   I had no idea what to do with that stuff.   Not needed so much anymore.