Author Topic: Inlay Pins  (Read 3358 times)

Offline ptk1126

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Inlay Pins
« on: March 10, 2009, 03:42:19 AM »
For my current project, I need to make a lot of very small brass and German silver pins. The silver pins need to have a head diameter of
about 3/64" (.047). The brass pins are of 3/64", 1/16" (.0625) and 3/32" (.0938) head diameters. Perhaps I am being too anal about
trying to reproduce the sizes used by the gunmaker I am trying to copy but I would like to get as close as reasonable.

I have read the archived articles and understand the process of using a steel plate drilled and countersunk for forming the nails.
What I am not sure of is the relationship between the wire diameter and resulting head diameter; is the head twice the diameter of
the shank ? three times ? does it matter ? I will also use thick epoxy to form a firm level base for the inlays, so the nails are not
necessary for holding power.

Two other questions:

     Where do you find a small enough countersink to make the plate and inlays ? A Dremel #125 high speed cutter ?

     Where can you find brass and german silver wire of appropriate diameters in small quantities without breaking the bank ? 
     As an old age pensioner, I rebel against buying german silver wire by the pound at $15-25 per pound when I only need a few feet.

Many thanks for your suggestions

Paul


George F.

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Re: Inlay Pins
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2009, 03:50:58 AM »
For the brass, you could buy brads, and chuck. them in your drill press and file it to the size you need, but I think they are really bronze. Muzzleloaders builders supply has GS nails with a head, they could also be chucked in the drill press and filed down,.Hope this helps.....Geo.

Offline tallbear

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Re: Inlay Pins
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2009, 04:13:52 AM »
Paul
This is my heading plate.I got the countersink from mscdirect.com.It was 82 degree's but it doesn't matter as I use the same countersink on the tool and the inlay.Make sure the countersink goes to a point as some don't.As far as the size of the head, you just have to keep peening until you fill up the countersink in the tool (you can file off the excess).There of course some limit as to how big you can get.

Mitch


omark

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Re: Inlay Pins
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2009, 04:20:24 AM »
ptk, the relationship of head diameter to shank diameter would depend on the size of the countersink. the deeper you go, the wider the head and it doesnt really make any difference what the sizes are. of course if a guy went real big, the wire might work harden before getting it peened properly, but within reason it shoud be ok. on many inlays i hold them with small wood screws. put them in after countersinking the inlay, but make it shallow enough that after filing screw to the level of the inlay, the screw slot is removed, making it appear as a pin. before installing the screw i put a drop of superglue in the screw hole. a person could do that with brass screws, also, or even silver if you can find any, i have never seen silver screws that i remember.   as far as the counter sink, i use one that i think is 5/8 diameter but ends in a point, get them at home depot, lowes etc. mark

Offline David Veith

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Re: Inlay Pins
« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2009, 02:26:27 AM »
If I remeber right I used a #00 counter sink to make my nail plate. I took a peice of ½ by about a 1" long drill rod used the counter sink  then the same size drill. Then fillbed it  (SP) then used a little bit larger drill and drill all most to the counter sink. then I can use a punch to nock the nail out. Could have even been a 1/16 Drill that way I can use my punch for pins to nock them out.
David Veith
David Veith

Offline ptk1126

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Re: Inlay Pins
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2009, 03:03:04 AM »
Many thanks for the info.

All the best
Paul