Fixing tomahawk head to shaft

[Tom Currie]

I have never build a tomahawh before and have a question. I am at a point where I need to permanently fix a tomahawk head to its shaft. The shaft is slightly tapered so there is a point at which the head will fit tight on the shaft but other than beating it on as tight as possible is there another mechanical step that is done ? Just thinking but wood shrinkage over time would create a problem. Thanks

[Hungry Horse]

Minimize the wood shrinkage by finishing the handle with several coats of linseed oil, and turpentine. It will reduce shrinkage a lot as long as you don't leave it in the hot sun for extended periods of time. Most mechanical remedies fail if the tomahawk it thrown to any degree, because you need a little give in the joint to prevent shattering the handle.

    Hungry Horse

[Ky-Flinter]

Tom,

Normally the taper fit is all that's used, no pins, screws, etc.  If the hawk is to be thrown used to split kindling, etc., HH is right, the mechanical retainer will fail and likely ruin the handle in the process.  When the handle eventually comes loose, put the hawk head back on and give the big end of the handle a rap and you're back in business.

If the hawk is a smoking pipe or for display, you could pin it, but it's not really needed.

-Ron

[crowbarforge]

You can also put a thin "gasket" of brain tan deer hide between the handle and eye. Like the man said, a sharp rap on the top of the handle sticking out of the eye will seat the head onto the tapered handle. Use will also tighten it.

[David R. Pennington]

If it is a traditional style tomahawk with the eye somewhat teardrop shaped and wider on top and tapering narrower toward the handle side then a correctly tapered handle will tighten up in it with no further attachment needed. Works like a mattock or adz handle where the head needs to knock loose easily from the handle so the edge can be ground. As Ron says a rap on the wide end should secure it.
However if what you are referring to is a hatchet or small axe where the head is drifted wider at the top and at the handle end, it's design requires a wedged handle. In this case the handle should be sawn across the long dimension of the end that will be inserted into the head to a depth about 2/3 the width of the axe head. The handle is then properly shaped to fit snugly into the head. You should be able to insert the handle and tap the opposite end with a wooden mallet and let the inertia of the head pull itself onto the handle as far as it will go. Next a wooden wedge the same width as the saw cut is inserted and driven in as far as it will go. I open the saw kerf with a chisel to get the wood wedge started and drive it home. (Poplar works well for wedges because it will swell if you let it soak up some linseed oil after you are done) Next saw off the protruding handle end and wedge flush with the axe head and add a steel wedge at 90 degrees to the wood wedge and the handle should be secure for a long time.

[Tom Currie]

Thanks everyone for your replies.