New Blade/ First Time with O1 Steel

[jcmcclure]

This is a blade that I forged out today and it is the first time that I used O1 steel. I will have to say that I really liked it.

[smylee grouch]

Why do you really like it over what ever you were using before?

[jcmcclure]

LOL most all of the blades that I have made are re-purposed old files. This material worked really well...it was just quality material that seemed to make a difference for me.

Others mileage may vary. 

[smylee grouch]

Thanks for that reply. I have some real old leaf spring that I will be trying next summer and was wondering how that will work as compared to old files.

[jcmcclure]

Files work well don't get me wrong, but when you start using better quality steel you certainly notice the difference.

[LRB]

  01 is not really a good steel for beginners in forging. It leans toward micro cracking if not forged hot enough, and should be forged a little hotter than the more simple types of steel. I may be a little off on this, but I believe the recommended forging temp is around 1800°/1900°, all due to the variety of alloys it contains, which do not respond well to normal forging heats. It also requires a more complicated heat treat, if you want to get the best results from it. Another factor is that it costs much more than the simpler steels that are easier to forge and heat treat properly. Simply put, unless you really know what you're doing with 01, and have the required means of heat treating it properly, you are paying extra for benefits you will not obtain, and very well may end up with a blade having hidden flaws which may show up later during use. 1080/1084 is much more suited for beginners, and may perform better than poorly done 01, with much less risk of future failure. Using the simpler 1080/84  steels is not a sign of being an amateur. Many well known bladesmiths use these steels to make very high performance blades.

[Bob Roller]

I have used 0-1 for years for sears and flys in my locks and also made double set trggers from it using my barnyard methods of tempering and so far only one broke fly and I still haven't figured out why that particular part broke. I've never tried to forge it so I can't comment about that. ALL of the locks I made in the last 40 or more years have sears of 0-1 and tumblers of 1144 stressproof which to me is ideal because it machines like 12L14 and hardens like 0-1 or drill rod.
I would think that a knife blade of 0-1 would be easier made by sawing it to shape and then do a lot of grinding and polishing instead of pounding on it with a heavy hammer. I once made a patch cutting knife from a badly worn file that was shaped like a knife to begin with. That's a 9 until noon job and it worked fine.

Bob Roller

[jcmcclure]

  01 is not really a good steel for beginners in forging. It leans toward micro cracking if not forged hot enough, and should be forged a little hotter than the more simple types of steel. I may be a little off on this, but I believe the recommended forging temp is around 1800°/1900°, all due to the variety of alloys it contains, which do not respond well to normal forging heats. It also requires a more complicated heat treat, if you want to get the best results from it. Another factor is that it costs much more than the simpler steels that are easier to forge and heat treat properly. Simply put, unless you really know what you're doing with 01, and have the required means of heat treating it properly, you are paying extra for benefits you will not obtain, and very well may end up with a blade having hidden flaws which may show up later during use. 1080/1084 is much more suited for beginners, and may perform better than poorly done 01, with much less risk of future failure. Using the simpler 1080/84  steels is not a sign of being an amateur. Many well known bladesmiths use these steels to make very high performance blades.

O1 is not something I would have invested in. A member of another forum gave me a couple 6 inch pieces. Since I had I did some reading on a few other forums and wanted to give it a shot. A local guy who does more modern knife making said he would be happy to treat it properly for. I have done one blade out of 1084 and I have more coming as soon as it get cut.

[LRB]

I have used 0-1 for years for sears and flys in my locks and also made double set trggers from it using my barnyard methods of tempering and so far only one broke fly and I still haven't figured out why that particular part broke. I've never tried to forge it so I can't comment about that. ALL of the locks I made in the last 40 or more years have sears of 0-1 and tumblers of 1144 stressproof which to me is ideal because it machines like 12L14 and hardens like 0-1 or drill rod.
I would think that a knife blade of 0-1 would be easier made by sawing it to shape and then do a lot of grinding and polishing instead of pounding on it with a heavy hammer. I once made a patch cutting knife from a badly worn file that was shaped like a knife to begin with. That's a 9 until noon job and it worked fine.

Bob Roller

  Many things depend on whether your goals need to produce "good enough", or to produce the best you can. Sometimes the difference in results can be minor to even insignificant, depending on the intended purpose of your product. No one can argue the quality of function or workmanship in your locks, so therein is an example of the above. A knife blade is a different animal than your lock parts, with some different expectations in it's performance duties which usually requires the best heat treat for its intended purpose, which is cutting. Whereas in your lock parts, the expectation is more towards abrasion resistance between moving parts. Both relate to abrasion resistance, but involve a completely different action, or duty, of the product. Even if you did the full recommended heat treat for 01 on your sears and flys, I doubt you would ever appreciate any degree of noticeable difference. However, differences in an 01 knife blade will show up. Sooner or later.

[T*O*F]

I bought several 36" bars of knife steel back in the mid 80's from Texas Knifemakers Supply.  I've got 2-1/2 bars left but no longer remember what they are.  Is there any way to figure that out.  I seem to remember the choices being high carbon steel, 4140(?) stainless, and D2.  I know the 1/2 bar is D2.

[LRB]

  You should be able to tell the high carbon from the stainless by how easily it will rust in a comparison test. Exactly which high carbon steel would be difficult to determine, unless it was precision ground. If precision ground, it is likely 01, or A2. A2 is an air hardening steel. You could determine which by heating a test piece to a orange yellow, then letting it cool. If A2, when cool, you should not be able to easily cut it with a file, if at all. The stainless is probably 440-C, which was very popular in the eighties, in that 4140 is a low to medium carbon steel often used for modern gun barrels and other parts not requiring high carbon, and will easily rust. Back to the A2. TKMS used to offer heat treating, but only for air hardening steels, so there is a good chance your carbon steel may be A2. A very fine blade steel, slightly superior to 01 in some aspects, but not by much. To harden A2 for a blade, it is taken up to around 1775°, held at that temp for 30 to 45 minutes, then cooled by still air, forced air, or thick quench plates, or a combination of plates and forced air, then tempered. Fairly simple if you have, or have access to a heat treat oven.

[Mike R]

...about O-1 steel...back when I was in the Army and thought to be on my way to Nam [1968] I bought a Randall made with O-1 steel.  Fortunately I was stationed at the Pentagon instead of Nam, so the Randall saw use only as a hunting and camp knife.  That steel will hold an edge and cut better than most or all of the many different steels I have used--apparently Randall knows how to forge, harden and temper it...seems the trend among forge-makers of blades is toward slightly lower carbon steels like 1084, but many still use higher C alloys like 52100 ball-bearing steel, A-2, etc...alot of good knife streels out there...my OLD Marbles Woodcraft is supposedly 1095 and it holds an edge like crazy!  Nothing cuts like the old carbon steels, IMHO.