making aqua fortis

[Benedict]

Several years ago at the Montana Historical Gunmakers Guild Fair, we made stock stain by dissolving iron in nitric acid.  I took some of that stain and some ferric nitrate (made from ferric nitrate crystals) and made some samples on the red maple from the rifle I was building at the time.  At first the 2 stains were slightly different in color.  Neither color was at all displeasing and certainly not any different than if they had been put on different pieces of wood.  I put my samples on the shelf in my shop and forgot about them for a year or so.  After a year I could not tell the difference between the color of the samples.  Particularly after that experience I can see no reason to mess with dangerous acids and storage issues.

Just my 2c.

Bruce

[Dphariss]

 I'm planning on making some aqua fortis stain, using steel wool for the metal, I was told that steel wool has oil on , what's the best way to clean the wool?

I have made AF with a number of different sources of iron. There is no difference on the wood. I would degrease some smaller finishing nails and use them. Rust does nothing that I can see. Most reactions will leave some sludge in the bottom. I let is settle out then decant the "clean" stain.
The nails can be degreased with starting fluid (ether) from the auto parts store. Spray so the fluid can run off the nails, let dry (a few seconds in open air) then start the stain. Steel wool can create a lot of heat due to faster reaction.
The pitcher was in water to help keep the heat down. Fumes are super nasty.

http://s72.photobucket.com/user/DPhariss/media/Video%201/Stain%20making.mp4.html


Dan

[Dphariss]

Like Bruce said.  Ferric Nitrate is Ferric Nitrate. I have a lifetime supply of acid but its also scary to work with and you should have protective gear. Face shield etc.

Dan