There are methods utilizing kiln drying technologies that can permit one to cut wood this spring and have it well dried by next winter or late fall. Kiln drying is nothing more than utilization of heat and airflow. Airflow being very critical in any method of drying, even for firewood. When I talk about accelerated drying, I am not referring to true modern kiln methods, instead a more gradual process that will give one a workable piece of wood that may take a few months.
The literature on this and my experience loosely illustrates three stages desirable for progressive technique change.
The first is the fresh cut fresh sawn plank. This is where a good part of the checking process starts and is where sealing the ends is so important. One idividual recommended shellac, I have used very heavy coats of paint and some use glue mixed with water. In this stage many leave the plank air dry in an approriate dry place such as a shed as it seems to work not to have as high of temperatures. For a larger volume you can rick it up off the ground and place the slats between the pieces. The wood will appear wet at this stage and may take a while to look dryer. On my firewood piles, the end grain is very wet and the checking is an indication that it is drying. This may take between 2 summer weeks to a month.
The second stage is what I may call an equilibrium stage for lack of a better term.
In this stage you can introduce fairly high heat, but permit a cooler period to permit the wood to reach equilibrium so as to allow the surface area to regain the interior moisture withot too large a difference. One individual leaves the wood in his car during the summer and lets the heat of the parked car with rolled up windows work on it. Claims it really fogs up the windshield. This is where some have built solar dryers. The system can be used to final dry. The kiln literature claims the advantage of solar drying is in permitting equilibrium to occur, but it s slower. Keep the wood out of direct sunlight. The solar kilns use a solar collecter to heat a hotbox.
For a final stage you can put the wood in continuous heat. I built a hotbox using 4 100 watt bulbs as I have seen recommended. The solar box sounds great to me for people living further south. A hotbox is nothing more than a box, most use plywood with interior insulation and light bulbs for heat, big enough to hold a couple of stocks. The box is also very handy in the shop for drying some finishes or getting glue to set up. Put a pan of water in it and you can use it for a humidity box. I use mine a in the spring and fall when shop temps are comfortable to work in in a jacket. Even if I did not use one to dry wood it is a handy accesory. On my last project, I put the stock I was working on in the hotbox more than once while in process.
This is a rough outline, and I am interested in other input as to other experiences. This works for most stock woods. I gather red oak is a real challenge. Ideally one would have a moisture meter to develop a consistant system. I could buy a very nice stock for the price of a meter and use a relative weight system as wood gets noticably lighter when dying. I doubt if I hit the magic 6-8%, but I get it fairly dry fairly quick.
DP
