True Coat from Wahkon Bay. about $7 for 2 oz or $20 for 8 oz. That is well over $300 a gallon.
Oil finishes per Russ Fairfield.
http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish7.shtmlMy Home-Brew Oil/Varnish Finish
I mix my own oil/varnish because I have control of the ingredients, it is always fresh, and it is less expensive to use than commercial products that contain less than 20% finishing solids. $35.00 a gallon is a lot to pay for something that is 80% mineral spirits or other thinners. My opinion may be somewhat biased because I learned to mix my own finishes before any of the commercial mixtures were available.
I use a mixture of equal parts 100% pure Tung Oil, Varnish, and Turpentine. The proportions aren't critical. If there is any error in the proportions, it should be towards a lesser amount of oil, and a greater quantity of thinner. Additional oil will improve its wiping properties, but it will also increase its drying time.
In my opinion, McCloskey's "Man'O War" Gloss Spar Varnish (in the red can) is the best varnish on the market for turned wood. It has all of the benefits of a spar varnish because of its Tung Oil, phenolic, and alkyd resins. Its only disadvantage is that it is more expensive than other varnishes. I have always preferred the traditional alkyd varnishes for furniture and turned wood, but they are getting difficult to find, and I have limited experience with the floor finishes mentioned earlier.
Pure Gum Spirits of Turpentine are used for the thinner because the natural oils become a part of the finish and enhance the qualities of the varnish. Other thinners do not become a part of the finish. Turpentine substitutes are nothing more than an expensive form of Mineral Spirits (paint thinner) that evaporates more slowly.
Either 1-K kerosene, VM&P Naptha, or Mineral Spirits can be substituted for the turpentine. Naptha dries faster than Turpentine, Kerosene dries slower and mineral spirits dries only slightly faster, but also gives the mixture a shorter shelf life. None of them impart anything to the finish. The new odorless Mineral Spirits is not "odorless" and it is more expensive.
I use whatever good quality 100% Tung Oil is available at the local paint store because I like to inspect the cans for signs of aging before buying. Old Master'sŪ and Hope'sŪ are the brands usually available, and both are good quality. Boiled Linseed Oil can be used, but the resulting finish is softer and it will become darker faster than with Tung Oil. Changing the oil that is used to a 50/50 mixture of Tung Oil and Boiled Linseed Oil seems to better enhance the grain in highly figured wood such as Maple.
For Gunstock finishes I basically follow Frank Whiton's guide on this link.
https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037His secrets are simple, dilute the finish for the first coat so that it soaks in better. It takes a lot of work, but once I am to that point, I already have a lot of work involved in the stock so why not do a Grade A job on the finish. I also use it on my collector's grade game calls.
The 2 links are like my Bible for finishes, neither are simple or easy, but in my 60 plus years of woodworking I have not found a simple and easy secret to finishing wood. Good finishes start with a good sanding and a good finish is slow and hard work.
