Stopping a barrel from rusting after it is browned

[David Rase]

This morning a friend of mine and I were discussing how we get a barrel to stop rusting once it is browned.  We both use about the same method which works for us, so we were of no help to each other.  I said I would post the question on the ALR and "ask the experts" what methods they use.
Thanks, David

[okawbow]

Browning a barrel with LMF right now. When I'm ready to stop the browning; I rub it down with lemon scented household ammonia from the dollar store. I then heat up the parts with a heat gun, and rub on boiled linseed oil. I get zero additional rusting after treating like that.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Apart from having to wait for the brown to use itself up, which takes about a week, I rather welcome the after-rust.  It only makes the brown job deeper.  Naturally, the steel requires carding off and re-oiling, but as long as you are not on a contract when it must be done by (pick - a - date), let it come to fruition.

But to answer the question:  some browning solutions are worse than others for residual rusting.  When the barrel, for example, is finished, I take it to the laundry sink, plugs still installed, and scrub it with a mud of baking soda and hot water using a stiff brush.  While I am at this, I bring a full kettle of tap water to a boil, and slowly pour it lengthwise over the barrel, until the kettle is empty.  this it's back to the shop, barrel in the V blocks, and rub it down with a piece of towel and MOTOR OIL.  There are likely better oils for the job, but that's what I use.  The barrel is still very hot from the flushing, so the steel really enjoys this oil bath.  Then I immediately remove the plugs, and clean and oil the bore.  Using this system, I get very little after-rust, and a re-appliation of the oil seems to take care of it.

Laurel Mt. Forge's browning solution is the most aggressive I have used.

[oldtravler61]

Ditto to Acer. Motor oil works well. Also have had luck with w-d. Never had a problem with any after rust. My 2 cents

[Joe S]

Dave -

Move about 100 miles east.  That should do it.

[Dennis Glazener]

I used to use baking soda if I used anything at all. The last barrel I did I washed it down with household ammonia and several days later it was still rusting! I did it again and then waxed it with Renaissance wax. Looks like its stabilized now. Got to get more baking soda, no more ammonia for me, smells bad and doesn't do as well for me on Laurel Mt browning.
Dennis

[B.Habermehl]

I usually scald my barrels on a hot, just about boiling water bath with some baking soda. Then hang muzzle down and dry with whatever's handy, then oil it down with rotella diesel oil.  I usually don't have any after rusting issues. I use wakon bay brown /blue. I squirreled a lifetime supply away when I heard of the original owner giving up the business. BJH

[Clowdis]

I finally settled on scrubbing the metal with a brush and baking powder slurry. Maybe do this a couple of times and then oil. Seems to stop the rusting a little better than some ammonia concoctions that I've tried.

[David Rase]

I appreciate all the responses.  It takes me 3 to 7 days, like Taylor said, to stop the rust.  We were just curious if any of you had methods to kill the rusting process faster or if you had to wait for it to die a slow death.  I have used WD-40, Brownells rust prevenitive, baking soda, steel wool and ordinary oil and they all wanted to keep on rusting for a few days. 
David

[B Shipman]

I use a saturated solution of sodium hydroxide. With gloves.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

When we brown, we create quite a porous surface on the steel, even when we card it off, I think.  The porous surface holds the chemicals on the steel which is all good for the colour we want to achieve, but simple rinsing doesn't remove what stuck there when WE want it to stop.  To stop it it must be neutralized or completely removed from the steel.  Adding too much of a base, like ammonia, will continue to rust the steel, maybe worse than the acids we started out with - the chemistry is something I am not sure about, but I have common sense suspicions.

[Mark Elliott]

I use WD-40 to start to make sure all the water has been removed,  then I apply Renaissance Wax.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Mark, the waxing may be the ticket.  It would likely prevent that dry look from the oil failing and needing reapplication.  Must give it a try.

[Captchee]

 i use engine oil . slobber it on  then check it . if it looks like its drying  another coat of oil . dont let it dry .  usually within a few hours it wont take any more oil . once it reaches that point i let it set  checking it now and then for a couple days  adding more oil if needed . normally  i find a barrel will stay  wet  after a few coats .  after about 48 hours i wipe it down with a dry cloth.  rub down with alittle BL and its done.
IMO you dont really want the etching  effect but a a stain type of rust to build .  thus getting a nice clean and bright brown  .

[Boompa]

   I warm the barrel w/ a propane torch to about 150 degrees to thoroughly dry the barrel. Then I get pure ammonia from the hardware store and wipe it down thorough.  Warm the barrel once again. then rub down with a good penetrating oil. 

[Curtis]

Linseed oil seems to work the best for me.  I have tried many of the above mentioned techniques as well....

Curtis

[EC121]

I card the barrel off and spray it with G96.  That's about it.

[Tim Crosby]

 Another vote for wax, warm the barrel, apply the wax, let it dry wipe with a cloth towel. Johnsons Paste Wax seems to work well.

  Tim C.

[Acer Saccharum]

I have been browning with aqua fortis, and the batch I have is rather aggressive. Like Taylor says it has to 'use itself up'. I've had after-rusting, for several weeks, and then it stops. Carding and neutralizing and oil eventually win over the acid.

[rogerpjr]

I've always used a soupy paste of baking soda and water rubbed in by hand. Then I wash it off with hot water, dry, and apply Rig gun grease. Never had a problem with after rust.

[Mark Elliott]

I should have said that I still have to card every day or two  for a week or so even with the wax.   Carding for me means rubbing down with a coarse cloth or white Scotchbrite.  Eventually, it all settles down and you don't get much brown on the cloth anymore.   I do think the wax shortens the process and is more persistent than just oil.  This also goes for aging steel.  It is, after all,  a controlled rusting process.  With browning,  you just let it go further and don't scrub all the rust away.   I don't neutralize so much anymore because the acid still has to just use itself up.   At least that is my take on it.