There are a couple of things that can make 1095 crack in water, and they are not intuitive.
First, water isn't an uniform quench. Layers of steam form and collapse continually. Water cools well, steam does not, so you are getting different cooling rates from one area to next.
Different cooling from one area to another means distortion, and leads to cracking.
That is why your good ol' blacksmith moved the steel in a figure 8, in the quench, to clear off the steam.
A faster AND more uniform quench, with less distortion and less chance of cracking is to quench in salt brine. 10% table salt in water, which I think is about 13 ounces of salt in a gallon of water, does quite well.
The other thing is that in the casting process, and in the anneal if the cast frizzens are annealed in air by the supplier, some of the surface carbon burns out. That makes the surface not harden as much as the inside. So you might think that softer surface wouldn't crack. But it does. It cracks because steel expands, gets permanently larger, when it is hardened. The more carbon, the more it expands. So if the surface has less carbon it expands less than the metal underneath, hence it is stretched and it cracks.
If you use a bit of Kasenit on the frizzen you may--may--restore some of that lost carbon, with less chance of quench cracking. I don't know if the Kasenit here is a real practical advantage or just Feel Good, but at least I don't think it hurts.
This is basic, working, heat treat practice.
