Author Topic: Disaster - Epoxied barrel to stock  (Read 13075 times)

Offline bgf

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Re: Disaster - Epoxied barrel to stock
« Reply #25 on: March 29, 2016, 07:18:26 AM »
I personally use JB compound (steel filled) for bedding stocks now. I use synthetic axel grease as a release agent - wonderful stuff.

Good stuff!  I've bedded a whole halfstock with JB weld and a couple of breeches as well.  It sets up and holds it shape fast enough that you can pull barrel and breech before they would be stuck too hard.  Seems very similar to dedicated bedding solutions functionally once it has set up.

Originally I used Saran wrap or went to other great lengths for release agents, but one day I got brave and used just WD40.  That worked fine, too, but I always pull barrel when test blob of JB weld is just right.

Offline Kingsburyarms

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Re: Disaster - Epoxied barrel to stock
« Reply #26 on: March 29, 2016, 01:18:02 PM »
This happened to me on my current first build. I thought I was sunk, no way I could release the barrel. and as I started to pull it apart from the front, there was so little wood under the front of the barrel I was just waiting for the "Crack" sound - And there is nothing to grab on to to get the barrel out - what I actually did was the following:

1) I took a knife and followed the contour of the barrel the best I could to make sure it was not "hooked" into the stock with overflow of the embedding epoxy.
2) I re-drilled all holes through the stock and barrel (tang, lock plate, trigger) and made sure any glue was clear of these as well - (that was one of the holding points)
3) I made a wedge on my table saw - 40 inches long 1/4 inches wide and tapering from 0 to 1/2 inches only. (yes, very long and skinny) from a scrap piece of Oak - strong stuff.

I took the wedge under the front of the barrel and butt end of the barrel on the concrete driveway (as it's 80"+ long now) and with a helper, tapped the wedge slowly under the barrel. This may not work as well if you have your lugs in place, as you may need to go on one side or the other, but I did not, so the wedge went all the way down to the tang then "pop" the barrel came up. No heat, no cold. just light taps.

Worked for me without breaking my forstock if you have your tangs in, make a 1/4 inch hardwood wedge and tap lightly - Physics says that you will separate the two items, just take it slow.

Offline Scota4570

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Re: Disaster - Epoxied barrel to stock
« Reply #27 on: March 29, 2016, 06:03:22 PM »
I heat them when they get stuck.  Heat will soften the epoxy, and melt the release agent making, it possible to pull them apart. 

Spyridon1219

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Re: Disaster - Epoxied barrel to stock
« Reply #28 on: March 29, 2016, 07:32:13 PM »
Good news! It turns out that I was just afraid to pull hard enough. I ran an exacto around the edges, took it out of the vise, and put the butt on the floor. The barrel popped right out with a good steady tug. Thanks guys. One disaster averted. I'm sure I'll need some help again soon.

Offline jerrywh

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Re: Disaster - Epoxied barrel to stock
« Reply #29 on: March 29, 2016, 07:40:13 PM »
Jerrywh  That is why I use the saran wrap. Have bed alot of modern an a few muzzeloaders. But the processes are the same. When they stick, they stick. But even when you do it right. They still come out hard sometimes.
 
  I believe in that saran wrap. It is a real good idea. Another thing I usually do is like some of the other guys said. I pull the barrel before the epoxy set up hard. They come out real easy when the stuff is set but not hard. I never used GB weld just because of the color but it is one of the most stable things you can use.
 I use WD40 a lot for release and Johnson paste wax. When I make barrel in letting forms I use WD40 and pull the barrel early.
 I'll bet not many people have pulled as many barrels as Dave Race.
   One more comment- when you put a red hot rod down the barrel it heats the barrel perfectly even. and the barrel itself probably doesn't get any hotter than 500° which is the release point of epoxy when it is set up or slightly more.
   Most liners are put in with loctite now days and  to remove the liner for replacement the whole barrel must be heated  to at least 500° to get the liner out.
  Before that the liners were soldered in with 600° solder. Any temp below 800° is not going to hurt a gun barrel as far as alignment goes. How about charcoal bluing? How hot does that get? Acer heat blued one with a torch and it didn't hurt it one bit. Consider-- go think.
   
« Last Edit: March 29, 2016, 08:00:08 PM by jerrywh »
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JB2

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Re: Disaster - Epoxied barrel to stock
« Reply #30 on: March 29, 2016, 10:36:46 PM »
Glad to hear it popped out.  Also great to hear about all the different things to do to get a 'stuck' barrel out.  This thread has given me enough confidence (uh-oh!) to go ahead with a couple of bedding exercises I need to complete.  My brother-in-laws knock-about TC will be the first victi...uh, test piece ;D

Have tools, can make kindling and scrap iron!

Offline Robby

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Re: Disaster - Epoxied barrel to stock
« Reply #31 on: March 30, 2016, 12:24:24 AM »
glad it all worked out for you Spy!!!
Robby
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Offline Scota4570

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Re: Disaster - Epoxied barrel to stock
« Reply #32 on: March 30, 2016, 02:01:34 AM »
Glad you got it out.  I should have mentioned that working it over with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer can set up enough vibration to make it bust loose gradually.  Just pulling hard is asking to break the stock. 

Offline FALout

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Re: Disaster - Epoxied barrel to stock
« Reply #33 on: March 30, 2016, 03:23:05 AM »
Glad you got the barrel out.
Bob