Early Lancaster nosecap

[Dennis Glazener]

I am in the process of completing one of Jim Chambers early Lancaster kits. I am ready to fasten the nosecap on. Since I normally build NC mountain rifles I have very little experience with Lancaster style rifles. I normally make a copper rivet and place it mid way under the cap (where ram rod goes) and peen it flat with the nose cap. I use copper on both iron and brass hardware.

Is this same procedure proper on early Lancaster rifles? If not how/what should I use.
Dennis

[Nate McKenzie]

That's how I do it.

[PIKELAKE]

I believe the muzzle cap was installed the way you described on most rifles. Now, I know this may ruffel some feathers, but I paint the real thin wood at the end of the stock with Micro Bed ,set the cap and then install the rivet. Sometimes I even paint the inside of the barrel channel inside the cap. My rifles lead a rough and tumble existence and they need all the help I can give them.

[B Shipman]

There's many ways to do this. But I know Beck used copper rivets much of the time and this was part of Lanc. Co. Actually I woulld'nt worry about it. I usually use a small wood screw and file off the head.

[Dennis Glazener]

Thanks to all of you. Hadn't thought of Bill's idea of the small wood screw, just might try that way on this one.
Dennis

[Benedict]

IIRC we had a similar discussion a few months ago. 

George Suiter told me that most (if not all) nose cap rivets were iron.

I have always used copper but plan to try iron on my next build.

Bruce

[brokenflint]

Bill   The wood screw head on the inside and the tip protrusion filed off on the outside or the head on the outside?
Doesn't the Dixon book show a techniques where a small metal plate is bedded in the forestock and a machine bolt threaded into it to hold the nose cap inplace?  then file off the bolt protrusion into the stock and the head / slot off of the exterior side. 

[fm tim]

Try putting the wood screw head on the inside and make a slight countersink outside.  Install the screw then file it close to the cap, peen the screw into the countersink, then file flush.

[T*O*F]

I fit/inlet mine so tight that they don't really need a rivet.  Once it's on, you need a screwdriver to pry it off.  The natural springyness of the cap holds it on.  On the final installation, I put a dab of Permatex Form-a-Gasket inside the cap, spread it around, and shove the cap on.  The Permatex bonds it, but never hardens so it can be removed in the future, should that ever be necessary.

[billd]

I have used a 2-56 flat head machine screw.  Drill and tap right thru the wood and nose cap.  Cut it off flush plus about .015 with a jewlers saw and lightly peen it with a hammer.  Looks just like an iron pin but less chance of denting the nose cap.  Not PC but neither is acra glass, epoxy, micro bed or permatex. Don't tell anyone and they'll never know.

Bill