Carving gnarly wood

[Boompa]

 This is more of a comment than a question but I invite others to comment as well.  In my ongoing "learn-as-I-go" LR building I started doing simple carving over the past couple of years.  Starting with simple incise carving and progressing to more complex patterns of relief carving.  For the most part I've had very few problems, taking time to draw everything out, think ahead of each cut, keep a sharp edge and so on.  The stock I'm working on now is giving me fits! There are no obvious knots but areas where stems grew out of the piece of maple I used and I cannot carve without the wood pulling away.  In places it does not matter which direction I try to carve I get the same result, little chips and unevenness. I will end up spending hours cleaning up the carved areas.
       I will examine closely and be particular about any stock before I consider decorative carving.     

[Mike Brooks]

It takes gnarly chisels to carve gnarly wood. You must be using the wrong brand.

[Boompa]

It takes gnarly chisels to carve gnarly wood. You must be using the wrong brand.

     Sold! Where can I get mine?

[bama]

You have to keep your chisels "SCARY SHARP" but even then you may run into a place that wants to chip out. Things that I do when I have this type of wood is:

Make sure my chisels are sharp and I touch them up very often.

Keep my cutting angle very shallow. I sometimes have my chisel almost flat on the stock.

Take very shallow cuts.

You can also cut across the grain with shallow cuts to help level out a narly spot.

I also use scrapers to help with my carving, especially when I am trying to level out the background. These can be used across the grain to help level an area. The scrapers have to be good and sharp also.

[Boompa]

     I'm not sure about scary sharp but after a touch up on the buffing wheel chisels are about razor sharp.  I picked up a few tiny needle files and made some small scrapers at your suggestion. It's progressing but still a slow process.  Now that I know the areas of difficulty on the stock I can see the small stem cores that are causing the problem.
      The pics below show areas at the tang and near the front of the cheek piece where I was fighting with it. It is hard to see the goofy, twisted, gnarly grain in the pics taken with my cheap little digital. These pics were taken earlier today and after working on these areas for a couple hours with scrapers & tiny files it looks much nicer.  When I get done with the carving and clean up I post a few "all done" pics.


 
   

[Ky-Flinter]

Boompa,

That appears to be spalted maple.  I wonder if the spalted-ness is contributing to the pull outs?

-Ron

[Boompa]

   It is spalted but I'm not thinking that's the problem.  The wood is  firm/sturdy, heck I don't know, maybe the spalting has something to do with it. I think it's the stem cores you can't really see in the pics.  It was an inexpensive piece of wood due to the spalting coloration.

[Jerry V Lape]

You have probably tried this technique but I will mention it anyway.  When you get into these spots perhaps a slicing motion rather than a straight cut will help you.  I frequently use a skewed chisel for areas where I need to get across or up grain when there is not other choice.  Of course this isn't useful with gouges but you can use them to reduce the area around the squirrely grain. 

[Mike Brooks]

You need to use harder wood.

[Boompa]

   It definitely is NOT the hardest piece of maple and that is part of the problem. It does carve better using the slicing technique but I'm having to do an awful lot with needle files, scrapers and sandpaper.  This experience is making me real fussy on wood in future projects. No wonder sugar maple or "rock" maple as it's sometimes called is so popular w/ gun makers. Another beginner lesson learned.

[thimble rig]

You are doing a very good job.Its going to look pretty good when youre done.I know its slow going but you will get er done.

[PPatch]

   It definitely is NOT the hardest piece of maple and that is part of the problem. It does carve better using the slicing technique but I'm having to do an awful lot with needle files, scrapers and sandpaper.  This experience is making me real fussy on wood in future projects. No wonder sugar maple or "rock" maple as it's sometimes called is so popular w/ gun makers. Another beginner lesson learned.

Sounds like you "get it" now. You're actually doing a good job considering the wood you choose.

dave

[Scota4570]

Get a set of diamond shapeners.  http://www.airgraver.com/Hand_Engraving_Tools_Overview.htm  I splurged and bought the whole set from #280 to #2000.  I finish with a leather piece glued to a board and charged with rotten stone.  I used to use my gun polishing stuff but got away from it when I go the diamond stones.  The stones are faster and do a better job.

I found a set with a better price:
http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Sharp-Diamond-Sharpening-Stone/dp/B00SK3LDBE?ie=UTF8&keywords=diamond%20stones%20sharpening&qid=1465483947&ref_=sr_1_7&sr=8-7


Skew chisels help.  

I made a tool recently that I am using quite a bit.  It is a miniature scraper made from a chisel.  The chisel had a 1/4" shank, a fish tail cutting end, the edge is about 1/2" across.  After I made it "scarry" sharp I rolled the edge over to make a scraper.  It is really good for inletting side plates and smoothing backgrounds. The downward pressure of a tiny scraper may help.  

[elkhorne]

Scota4570,
Can you post a picture of you new tool. I have been procrastinating about making some of Jack Brooks round nose chisels like he shows on his website. I think you may have a better mousetrap and it would help the rest of us if we could see a picture of it. Thanks.
Elkhorne