Petrolatum

[T*O*F]

Since current topics are trending towards barrels, I just bought a new burn barrel.  It came from a cosmetics plant and still had a big blob of pharmacy grade petrolatum in the bottom.  I managed to salvage a coffee can full.

What uses might it have for muzzleloading applications.....patch lube, bullet lube, etc?

[Daryl]

Petrolium usually has no use with BP fouling - however, once & IF synthesized - who knows? I've never heard of Petrolatum before this post. You should be able to answer that with a simply test.
Flash some BP off on a sheet of steel and see if that stuff emulsifies the fouling.  Just a thought.

[Maven]

Sure you have, Daryl, but named differently:  Vaseline

[T*O*F]

Vaseline

This stuff is pure white and is thicker than Vaseline.

[Mad Monk]

Since current topics are trending towards barrels, I just bought a new burn barrel.  It came from a cosmetics plant and still had a big blob of pharmacy grade petrolatum in the bottom.  I managed to salvage a coffee can full.

What uses might it have for muzzleloading applications.....patch lube, bullet lube, etc?

Petrolatum is a petroleum wax extracted from common petroleum jelly.

It has seen long use in bp guns in the form of Young Country 103 lube.  Which was repackaged Chap Stick.
For the patch lube Chap Stick formula they use 45 parts of petrolatum wax.  About 51 parts of water.  A bit of cetyl alcohol to act as an emulsifier in getting the water ton disperse as micro beads in the wax.

When I first ran into it back in 1984 at the Morgan's rifles shoot my buddy would take it and heat it to melt it.  Then dip his patches.  When you melt it the water separates out and would be poured off.  So the patches were simply being lubed with the petrolatum.  At the time it worked better than any of the other commercial patch lubes on the market.  Since t is a petroleum wax it will not form asphalt films in the bore as the petroleum oils and greases will.

You might want to insure that what you have is real petrolatum.  Put some in a shallow metal pan and hit it with the flame from a common propane torch.  Watch to see how it behaves when it burns.  Watch for any big stringers of black carbon rising off the flame.  Once it is all gone look to see if there is anything left in the pan.  A very thin film of black would be expected because it still should contain a bit of mineral oil.
 

[T*O*F]

You might want to insure that what you have is real petrolatum.

The labels on the barrel say
Pinnacle 190 API
Petrolatum USP grade

In addition to salves, ointments, other medical uses, and cosmetics, here are some other uses I found for it.

Coating
Petroleum jelly can be used to coat corrosion-prone items such as metallic trinkets, non-stainless steel blades, and gun barrels prior to storage as it serves as an excellent and inexpensive water repellent. It is used as an environmentally friendly underwater antifouling coating for motor boats and sailing yachts. It was recommended in the Porsche owner’s manual as a preservative for light alloy (alleny) anodized Fuchs wheels to protect them against corrosion from road salts and brake dust.

Finishing
It can be used to finish and protect wood, much like a mineral oil finish. It is used to condition and protect smooth leather products like bicycle saddles, boots, motorcycle clothing, and used to put a shine on patent leather shoes (when applied in a thin coat and then gently buffed off).

[Mike Brooks]

Petrolium usually has no use with BP fouling - however, once & IF synthesized - who knows? I've never heard of Petrolatum before this post. You should be able to answer that with a simply test.
Flash some BP off on a sheet of steel and see if that stuff emulsifies the fouling.  Just a thought.

It's called Canadian crack cream around here.....

[Mad Monk]

You might want to insure that what you have is real petrolatum.

The labels on the barrel say
Pinnacle 190 API
Petrolatum USP grade

Finishing
It can be used to finish and protect wood, much like a mineral oil finish. It is used to condition and protect smooth leather products like bicycle saddles, boots, motorcycle clothing, and used to put a shine on patent leather shoes (when applied in a thin coat and then gently buffed off).

I would have second thoughts about its use on wood as in gunstock.  Some years back Young got into that with his Young Country 103 lube.  Claimed it was a good stock finish.  then I had an e-mail from some guy asking how to remove it.  Seems he had finished a gun with it.  Described it as trying to shoot with a greased pig.

[Daryl]

Petrolium usually has no use with BP fouling - however, once & IF synthesized - who knows? I've never heard of Petrolatum before this post. You should be able to answer that with a simply test.
Flash some BP off on a sheet of steel and see if that stuff emulsifies the fouling.  Just a thought.

It's called Canadian crack cream around here.....

LOL - funny old man.

60:40 Beeswax/Vaseline is a GREAT lubricant for cast bullets in black powder loads - as good as SPG or Lyman's Black Powder Gold.
The same mix also worked up to 2,200fps in my .458 as a smokeless or BP lube.
This lube was easily hand applied in OUR temps. For hot weather a 70BW/30Vas. mix will be a bit stiffer.  You can adjust the Vaseline/Beeswax ratio to make it stiffer or softer- whatever you want.

[T*O*F]

For hot weather a 50/50 mix will be a bit stiffer. Adjust the Vaseline/Beeswax ratio to make it stiffer or softer.

One thing that always bugs me when people give formulas or ratios is that they never specify if it is by weight or volume.  If acids are involved, that would include concentration.  There need to be standards involved if anyone is to have similar results.  That's why so many people come up with different results when trying to recreate some of the formulas or loads mentioned here.

Be specific, ie:
85 grains of 2F Swiss by weight
one pound of tin to 20 lbs of lead
8 ml of FeCl crystals to 50 ml of distilled water.

Never assume that people can intuit your intentions.

[J Henry]

  Make it easy,get an M.S.D.S. Sheet ( they are on line)and read up on it.

[T*O*F]

Make it easy,get an M.S.D.S. Sheet ( they are on line)and read up on it

Please explain how an MSDS sheet  will help find uses in muzzleloading applications.

So far we find that:
It's used for patch and bullet lubes
It can protect new gun barrels in storage
It can serve as a waterproofing agent for moccasins or shooting pouches
It can be used as a wood finish for shooting boxes, chairs, or other furniture used around camp, but not recommended for gunstock finishing.  Best applied warm for penetration.
It can prevent chafing when wearing breechclouts or leather pants
It can prevent chapped lips and when out hunting on those dry days will prevent your nostrils from drying out if applied to them.

Seems like everyone should carry a small tin of it in their hunting pouches.

[Daryl]

SRY (liquid/semi-liquid) - my lubes are all mixed by volume. When I give a powder charge, it is weight.  I use a stricken measure, which throws the charge weight I use.

[J Henry]

T*O*F MSDS Sheet would tell you all about the item in question,Flash point,if it is toxic,if when it turns to a vapor,if it is bad for you in what conditions.is it corrosive,does it react poorly and with what,just some nice to know sill information. or just wing it after all what could happen ?? I get MSDS Sheets on every product in my shop and have a book with them in it,throw back from teaching wood shop and cabinet building,,just me.
   And your list of what we found out,did that information come from the MFG or another source??