Author Topic: A little practice to get ready (Read 7174 times)

J. Talbert · « **on:** December 28, 2016, 12:21:18 AM »

My actual engraving projects are so far between jobs that I try to brush up, and hopefully improve my skills, before starting the real thing.

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Plus I'm working up my nerve

Trying to capture George's whimsical feel.

The cross hatching is not uniform. That was a bit of experimentation.

Jeff

smylee grouch · « **Reply #1 on:** December 28, 2016, 12:33:45 AM »

There are examples of original longrifles that look very nice but don't look as nice as your practice. Keep up the nice work.

jerrywh · « **Reply #2 on:** December 28, 2016, 12:53:18 AM »

J.Talbert.
That's actually pretty good . The scrolls are nice and smooth with no elbows and that wavy border exhibit great control.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #3 on:** December 28, 2016, 01:09:21 AM »

I now give you permission to "practice" on my stuff.....

James Rogers · « **Reply #4 on:** December 28, 2016, 01:57:39 AM »

Your plan of attack is what I would recommend to anyone in the same boat. I speak from miserable recent experience. Nice work!

BOB HILL · « **Reply #5 on:** December 28, 2016, 02:20:02 AM »

Looks good to me, for what it's worth.....Bob

Mark Elliott · « **Reply #6 on:** December 28, 2016, 02:44:41 AM »

That looks pretty good to me; nice even lines and smooth scrolls. I would be very happy with that.

Jim Kibler · « **Reply #7 on:** December 28, 2016, 03:20:30 AM »

Jeff,

I like it! I'll be looking forward to seeing your project when it's done.

Jim

bama · « **Reply #8 on:** December 28, 2016, 05:16:33 AM »

Jeff that is more than acceptable for long rifle work and it shows that you have the skill to produce at a higher level. Nothing wrong with wanting to do your very best and that is what makes for a truly great porject. Keep us posted.

Curtis · « **Reply #9 on:** December 28, 2016, 08:11:22 AM »

I say you are ready to start for real! Looks great, no fluff just the truth.

Curtis

David Rase · « **Reply #10 on:** December 28, 2016, 05:18:46 PM »

Jeff,
The scrolls are smooth, the cuts reflect light and the straight lines on the cross hatching look straight. If anything, like most of us, the long straight lines are the toughest to maintain straightness and consistent width and can always use more practice. I see quite a variation in the half diamonds on the running border. It looks like one pass has fairly pointed cuts and the other direction the cuts are more rounded. Are you cutting in the same direction, say right to left, and using both the right and left edges of your engraver for the border or are you cutting the border always using the left side of the tool? I found out for myself that always using the left side of the engraver when cutting these half diamonds gave me a more consistent cut then using both edges of the engraver. It was, still is, hard for me to duplicate the same motion cutting with the engraver tipped towards me and then tipping it away from me.
David

J. Talbert · « **Reply #11 on:** December 28, 2016, 06:35:27 PM »

Hey thanks for all the feedback.

I'm still tweaking the fit of the real thing but I hope to get the engraving started soon.

David,
Your right about the inconsistency of the running border. It's tricky because on one side I have my cut line to work off of, but on the outside I'm working off the bare outside edge.
I'm trying to emulate Eister's design so the cuts should be more rounded than pointed, and they are fairly elongated to create that wavy line down the center. Most of the cuts take me two passes to get to the right size. That's an area I can work on while I get the real patchbox ready to engrave.

Jeff

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #12 on:** December 28, 2016, 07:56:49 PM »

well done

jerrywh · « **Reply #13 on:** December 28, 2016, 11:27:11 PM »

What Dave Race said about tipping the graver brings up a very important point especially when cutting straight lines. Always cut so that you are looking at the face of the graver. Try it and you will see a big difference.

J. Talbert · « **Reply #14 on:** December 29, 2016, 01:14:18 AM »

Jerry,

Funny you should mention that.
I recently stumbled on to that very thing. I've struggled with how to judge just how far the graver is tipped to one side or the other.
By dumb luck I just happened to notice that the curl of metal comming off the face of the graver is a great gage of whether the graver is tipped side to side or running straight down the center.
When tipped the curl of metal widens noticeably on the side to which the graver is tilted.

Thanks,
All advice is welcome.

Jeff

Tony N · « **Reply #15 on:** December 29, 2016, 01:43:38 AM »

Looks very good to me!

~Tony

Dale Campbell · « **Reply #16 on:** January 08, 2017, 04:34:22 PM »

J. Talbert, Sent you PM.

Daryl · « **Reply #17 on:** January 09, 2017, 03:05:09 AM »

Quote from: Mike Brooks on December 28, 2016, 01:09:21 AM

I now give you permission to "practice" on my stuff.....

Spot-on!

Joe S. · « **Reply #18 on:** January 09, 2017, 03:13:12 AM »

Really,some real talent about to show off soon

Chowmi · « **Reply #19 on:** January 12, 2017, 07:07:53 AM »

I don't think you need to practice anymore!

I'm no great engraver, but I have learned through study of a few original examples and lots of pictures that your engraving is better than many of the old masters.

There are so many examples of fantastic contemporary rifle builders who can engrave like European Masters, that I think we often set too high a bar for ourselves when recreating authentic American longrifles in the flint period. The old masters most often had a true artists eye for design, and then average to above average execution. I think it's more important that the design is good, and a bonus if the execution is better than good.

I spent an hour with an original Eister patch box while taking an engraving lesson. The patch box was phenomenal. Put on an optivisor, and it's not as good as you think. It's all perspective and design.

I don't mean to denigrate the contemporary builders who do amazing engraving in any way. They are an extension of what the old masters could have done if they had the time and resources. My point is, if you want to engrave in the style of the old masters, then go ahead and make mistakes. They did.

Norm

Gaeckle · « **Reply #20 on:** January 12, 2017, 06:53:07 PM »

Quote from: jerrywh on December 28, 2016, 11:27:11 PM

What Dave Race said about tipping the graver brings up a very important point especially when cutting straight lines. Always cut so that you are looking at the face of the graver. Try it and you will see a big difference.

So, what you are saying is that when cutting a straight line it is best to cut towards you as opposed to going in a left to right or right to left direction?

J. Talbert · « **Reply #21 on:** January 15, 2017, 09:27:30 PM »

Gaeckle,

I can't speak for Jerry. I'm not sure what his technique is as far as the orientation of his work as he engraves.
I do know that some people, Ron Ehlert was one of them, do engrave with the chisel pointing toward themselves as they go. However I've only seen that done with a hammer and chisel.

I'm working with the Lindsay palm control tool. I'm essentially engraving right to left, BUT I am able to see the face of the engraver as I work. As I said earlier, being able to see the curl of metal peeling up in front of the tool, and using it to gauge whether I'm tracking straight down the middle or whether the tool is canted to one side or the other is very helpful.

Hope that helps.

Jeff

Gaeckle · « **Reply #22 on:** January 16, 2017, 02:40:52 AM »

Jeff,

I use a hammer and graver...chase it.

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Author Topic: A little practice to get ready (Read 7174 times)