Finish for English Walnut?

[n stephenson]

I am collecting parts to build an English coaching carbine modeled after an original by Henshaw. I have all my parts but, I`m waiting on my barrel . I was told it won`t be long. My question is for those who have built guns with English Walnut stocks . This is my first. I would like to see some different finish options if possible and, maybe an explanation of your technique. I understand that some people don`t like to tell how they did something and, I respect that but, any info. will be appreciated. I plan to keep all my scraps for testing but, there probably won`t be a lot. Thanks in advance.      Nathan

[wmrike]

On English walnut I use Pilkington's golden brown oil for base color and fill.  It brings out the figure and warms everything up a bit.  I move around on top coats, but if you want to keep things simple, the same Pilkington's has worked nicely for the final finish, too.

[PPatch]

Here is a prior ALR discussion on finishing English walnut;

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=29578.0

dp

[L. Akers]

Phillips Walnut grain sealer followed by multiple THIN coats of Phillips English Walnut Oil Preparation.

[James Rogers]

I would go with nitric acid and water (no iron) for color (don't use commercial stuff, and test on scrap first at 1 to 5 for starters) or leave as is and a good linseed varnish over it,  slurried in the pores.

[smart dog]

I would go with nitric acid and water (no iron) for color (don't use commercial stuff, and test on scrap first at 1 to 5 for starters) or leave as is and a good linseed varnish over it,  slurried in the pores.

Hi James,
I used to use plain nitric acid on maple to produce a reddish undertone.  Is that what happens when it is used on walnut?

dave

[James Rogers]

Here you go Dave. The black part was using commercial "aqua fortis". The other is using 5:1 water and nitric.
Some black walnut colors real nice as well with a weak solution. I want to try your yellow tint trick with nitric on a piece of black one day.

[n stephenson]

Thanks to all who contributed.    Thanks Nathan

[smart dog]

Hi James,
That is beautiful on the walnut!  Thanks for sharing.

dave

[Dphariss]

I am collecting parts to build an English coaching carbine modeled after an original by Henshaw. I have all my parts but, I`m waiting on my barrel . I was told it won`t be long. My question is for those who have built guns with English Walnut stocks . This is my first. I would like to see some different finish options if possible and, maybe an explanation of your technique. I understand that some people don`t like to tell how they did something and, I respect that but, any info. will be appreciated. I plan to keep all my scraps for testing but, there probably won`t be a lot. Thanks in advance.      Nathan

It would likely have been finished with a dark boiled linseed oil. Since it would have been a working gun. This will give a nice color to European Walnut without staining it to some color it need not be.  I thin the first coat with REAL turpentine to aid penetration.  Dark oil of this type is best made by heating store bought "boiled" oil with some calcium carbonate to kill the acids. I also add some Japan Drier (tablespoon or two to the gallon) and when I mix it for use I add 25-50% Grumbachers Oil Painters Medium III.  This was a pretty white piece of East coast American grown European Walnut. Note that it will not color to this level just by putting the oil on it and it will seem pretty pale after the first coat. But the color will increase over a few days to a week or so exposure to direct sun light will help. Finishing it with a modern transparent finish it will not color up properly and this means it will have to be stained which can cover up some of the color variations in the wood.


This gives an idea of the color with no finish.


Dan

[n stephenson]

Thanks

[Clowdis]

A lot of European walnut was finished using a stain or filler with Alkanet root giving it a reddish color. This color can be duplicated using French Red grain filler available from Brownells. This was what was also used on older Winchester rifles. How much to use would depend on the color of the walnut you're trying to finish. 

[Daryl]

This is a Claro-English I think- or a California English. Only thing I used, was True Oil. This picture taken 20 years and a LOT of use after the build.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

That one is strictly Claro walnut Daryl, from either Oregon or California...don't remember which.  Peter's flint shotgun is English.  English often has a creamy base colour with purple streaks following the grain.  In its good grades, it is dense and carves wonderfully.  It is sometimes referred to as "the king of gunstock wood".

[Daryl]

There ya go!
 Here's Pete's gun- just oil!




Here's one Cody built.



This one is English Walnut- quite dark and Mantonish!

[yulzari]

Alkanet linseed oil is the classic way to a red glow and darkened streaks to european walnut (most english gun walnut was foreign). Alkanet root is available on the net and ebay. Just pop some into a small jar of linseed oil and leave it for a few weeks. The longer you leave it the better it is. Rub in a little on the raw finished wood until you feel it is sufficiently coloured then swap to plain oil. Filling is less necessary than with American walnut usually but if needed do as stated but sand the oil in with very very fine sandpaper so that the pores get filled with an oil/wood dust slurry which will remain in the pores when the oil is wiped off and build up with successive coats until the pores are filled.

[boman]

 Yulzari's post is a good one if you want to home brew.  I'm too lazy and have always used Pilkingtons classic finish in gold brown(stain is built in) on the lighter english walnut(see pete's rifle above--very similar results).  on darker english and claro good old linspeed. this work is on modern custom rifles but don't know why it wouldn't apply to muzzleloading stocks too.  If your using engilsh or claro, your using a high grade wood anyway.

Also FWIW---true english of any quality with fine mineral streaks is getting extremely difficult if not impossible to get in this country and very expensive. Most all of the old growth orchards and trees are gone and the new ones in orchards are grafted for the most part to Claro root stock and usually never make it to the size needed for stock blanks; or show the graft mark when cut, which I find offensive. The really high quality stuff is very old and usually comes out of a yard, park etc. one at a time.

Steve