Lancaster lock inletting

[Jim Curlee]

I'm workin on a TOTW John Bivins era Lancaster kit.
I don't have any original rifles to look at, except in books.
What I'm wonderin is if the lock edge is flush on the lock panel, or "set-in" a touch on a Lancaster style rifle? Maybe only a portion of the lock "stick's" out, I don't have a clue.
The lock inlet has a gap around the edge, between the lock plate and the mortise.
Thanks
Jim

[Mark Elliott]

What type of lock do you have?   If it is a Siler or Golden Age type lock with a beveled edge, then you inlet to the bottom of the bevel.   If if is a flat plate like an early Ketland, then you inlet the plate flush, or to the bottom of the bevel if you put a slight bevel on it.    I you are inletting a late Ketland with a flat tail, then you inlet the tail flush and the rest to the bottom of the bevel.   You should see a pattern here. 

There should be no gap.   If that is the way you got it, then I would contact TOTW before you go any further.

[flinchrocket]

I think a picture is in order!

[Eric Krewson]

Right down to the edge of the bevel but no lower.



Late Ketland, edge of the bevel for most of the lock with the tail flat on the wood. My tail on this one is very slightly proud of the wood from my not paying attention with my sanding block.



Deluxe Siler, inletted to the bevel.

[Mark Elliott]

You know what they say about pictures.

[PPatch]

The lock inlet has a gap around the edge, between the lock plate and the mortise.
Thanks
Jim

Jim; With kit guns and the machine carving of the lock mortise one has to fool around to find the best fit for the lock plate.

Very carefully play around with that lock plate to see where it really fits best. You may have to remove a sliver of wood off of the lock mortise but there should be NO gaps between the lock plate and wood when you are finished inletting. Pre-carves have that issue with the pre-cut mortice, the final fitting of the lock plate into the mortise, you have to fiddle around and determine where the best orientation and fit are then go with that.

[rich pierce]

Don't make it look like it fell in a hole.

[Jim Curlee]

Thanks a bunch guy's.
All I did was remove wood from the bottom of the mortise, did not touch the edge's of the mortise at all, and the lock pretty much just slid into place.
Hopefully when I get down to the bevel edge, there will be enough wood for a tight fit. I have my doubt's.
Any techniques for growin more wood around the mortise? LOL
Thanks again
Jim

[Eric Krewson]

Wood shavings and glue to fill gaps, done carefully they are really hard to spot.



Do you see the one on top of the tail on the late Ketland pictured above?

[flehto]

Of course the bolster has to have full contact w/ the bbl.....Fred

[Jim Curlee]

Bolster is tight up to, and square with the barrel, at least it appears that way to me. LOL
One thing though is when I drill the vent hole, it would be centered in the barrel flat, is that an issue?
I see on some of the rifles "in progress", they have the vent hole lower on the flat.
Another thing, I'm building "Jim's" rifle, so I'm not really trying to copy any one's rifle in particular, but it appears to me after lookin through a few books that most of the rifle's of this "period" would have a single trigger.
There is a set of double set triggers with the kit, thought I might change out the trigger.
Would the single trigger be the correct way to go?
Jim

[Mark Elliott]

The touch hole should be centered on the flat, but often it doesn't end up there.   It is very easy to get a little off drilling the hole. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Set triggers are perfect for a mountain rifle...especially Jim's.

[Jim Curlee]

When molding the lock panels, is there any significance/ju ju/ or reason to have the beaver tail finial?
I don't plan on doin any carvin, hate to ruin a nice rifle. LOL

[Mark Elliott]

The beaver tail is part of the carved moulding around the lock panels.  The type of rifle you are building would have been carved including the lock moulding and tang.  You could have a simple cheek carving.  I don't think it would be right to have a colonial Lancaster, which is what you have, without any carving at all.

[flehto]

 On both the Bucks County and Lancaster LRs I build, the TH in a liner isn't normally on the center of the bbl flat....it's usually higher  so a very slender LR can be made. The 1/16"  web at the  breech  necessitates the higher TH location.....Fred

[Jim Curlee]

Lookin at your rifle, I noticed the rear part of your lock is flush with the lock inlet.
Did you file the rear portion of the lock down?
On the 2 Siler locks I have the plate is the same thickness from end to end.
Jim

[Dennis Glazener]

He used a late Ketland lock and that is the way they are made.
Dennis