Carving practice block

[Bioprof]

I decided to do a practice block from a piece that I cut off of a stock that I'm using for a Melchoir Fordney longrifle.  After I got the rifle put together and looked at pictures of his carving and engraving, I began to think that I got myself in over my head as I've only done a couple of rifles with carving.   I drilled some holes into the practice block, so when I'm done, I can use it as a small tool holder for my workbench.

Anyway, does this look like something that Fordney would do?   What could I do to improve the design?  (some of the marks along the parallel incised lines are just guidelines and will be erased later). 



P.S.  I posted this on another builder's forum to see if I could get some feedback, and it got deleted -- apparently because it wasn't on a traditional rifle.

[Dave B]

Well it looks like traditional longrifle carving even if its on a ?? chisle holder?  I think as long as you are discussing the issue of the carving you wont have a problem. I guess it could be put in the acuterments section for a cartrige block. I like what you have drawn there and should be a good piece for conversation if you leave it out on the coffee table. I like Melchior Fordneys work. I would like to see it when your done.

[JTR]

Looks like you're getting a good feel for Fordney's work to me.
He was fairly repetitious in most of his carving and engraving, so with practice should be possible to imitate fairly well.
Carve a little more and let's see what it looks like.
John

[rich pierce]

I think you're getting a good feel for a Fordney style.  Your design is pretty symmetrical.  I'd be tempted to use an element from the patchbox engraving, like the "shell" motif on th sideplate of the patchbox in the picture.  Right astraddle your double C scroll at the top.  That would really give it a "signature" and draw decorative elements together, maybe?

[Acer Saccharum]

That's a PERFECT way to get acclimated with a certain style. Your hand and eye will get the feel of Fordney's style, and by the time you get to the rifle, you will have a leg up on it.

Keep us posted, OK?

Acer

[Bioprof]

Thanks for the encouragement.   I used my V-parting tool to incise the design, but messed up on the little half-moon divots along the top of the C scroll because I used a dull chisel which caused a lot of chipping.  I ended up sanding off the part that I wasn't happy with and redoing it which caused more problems.   I still don't have the right chisel to do the little divots or whatever you call them.   My wife is going to kill me if I buy another expensive chisel just for one little job.    Anyway, I haven't gotten the background along the inside of the C scroll worked down yet, but here's the good, the bad, and the ugly so far.   I think I still need more practice.



The scroll on the right looks pretty good to me, but the one on the left still leaves a little to be desired.  I could probably deepen the carving and smooth it out a bit more.   Incised carving is a lot harder than it looks!

[rich pierce]

I assume you're using a parting tool?  If so make sure you have the work positioned so you can sort of swing or turn your body as you work around a curve.  If you rely on your wrists and arms to make the turns they will not be as smooth.  If you are using the parting tool, are you pushing it by hand or "chasing" it like a graver with a mallet?  I find that chasing gives better control.

It's easy to make little gouges; you don't need to buy them.  Even assuming you don't have a forge.  If you have a fine round file of the right diameter, you can file a groove in an annealed file, or piece of drill rod, or annealed masonry spike, shape the outside of your new gouge with files or a grinder, smooth it to 400 grit, harned using a propane torch, shine it, draw it to dark straw, sharpen it, fit a handle, and be ready to use it all within an hour.  In an afternoon I can make a set of gouges all with different radius and have them razor sharp and ready to go.  Take a few minutes to add some finish overnight and they will even look as good as they work.

[Benedict]

I assume you're using a parting tool?  If so make sure you have the work positioned so you can sort of swing or turn your body as you work around a curve.  If you rely on your wrists and arms to make the turns they will not be as smooth.  If you are using the parting tool, are you pushing it by hand or "chasing" it like a graver with a mallet?  I find that chasing gives better control.

It's easy to make little gouges; you don't need to buy them.  Even assuming you don't have a forge.  If you have a fine round file of the right diameter, you can file a groove in an annealed file, or piece of drill rod, or annealed masonry spike, shape the outside of your new gouge with files or a grinder, smooth it to 400 grit, harned using a propane torch, shine it, draw it to dark straw, sharpen it, fit a handle, and be ready to use it all within an hour.  In an afternoon I can make a set of gouges all with different radius and have them razor sharp and ready to go.  Take a few minutes to add some finish overnight and they will even look as good as they work.

Besides tools are great fun to make.  Your local  pawn shop will have lots of material for them.  You will find worn out chain saw files are great, along with such things as screw drivers, old wood chisels and plane irons.  You can also do some minor forging with the propane torch and the anvil on your vise.

Bruce

[keweenaw]

Those decreasing size echos are much easier to cut with a gouge or appropriate radius that is ground with a rounded tip.  Similarly the little half moons need a gouge, easily hand made, that has an almost pointed oval tip.  Stab it in to get the vertical cut, and then cut out the side.

Tom

[Seven]

Bio prof, that's a decent start.  A lot of people don't even do that much because they are afraid to put chisel to wood.  Some of your 'mistakes' can be cleaned up when you do some relief.  Like the flattening out of the C scrolls that you currently have, they can be rounded a bit more when you go to relief carve the inside of the C scrolls.  Same for the C lines that are on the sides of the scrolls.   In my opinion you have too many of those, loose a few when it comes to the final carving.  I'd also use a bit of relief on the 4 leaves that are centered in the design.  Again, just my opinion.  -Chad