Stock layout headache

[Roger B]

Hi guys!  I've decided that I want to build a semi-copy of a late flint Deringer trade rifle that is in the Jim Gordon collection.  This rifle may be the same gun that is depicted in Hanson's "Trade Rifle Sketch Book".  At any rate, I went up to Glorieta and Mr. Gordon allowed me to draw around the rifle for a stock pattern and do some measurements.  My problem comes in with the barrel on the original rifle.  As best I can tell with my vernier, it is a straight taper from about 1 3/16" to 1 1/6" over 44".  My pattern, then, has essentially the same taper.  The barrel that I intend to use on my build is 1" to 7/8" over 42".  How do I adjust my pattern to compensate for the different tapers?
Roger B.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I'd determine, on the profile pattern of the original, the web thickness and the rod hole diameter inside the forestock, and the web along the bottom of the forestock, and make your new pattern involving your own barrel with these same dimensions.  In other words, you are simply subtracting the difference in the two barrels from the profile pattern.  This will affect the trigger area and into the wrist too along the bottom lines of the pattern.  Other than that, use the original's pattern as is.
The top view pattern will also be diminished by the difference across the flats at the breech, which in turn will affect the lock panels and wrist.
Hope this helps...

[Mike_StL]

I built essentially the same rifle from a blank stock.  I drew all the center lines for the barrel and the butt stock.  I  made the adjustment for cast off and decided where the breech plug had to be. Then it was time to loosely clamp the barrel to the stock.  I  have a transfer block, a block with a hole drilled for a pencil point exit to mark the stock.  Using a dovetail saw, I put masking tape on the saw at half the  small measurement of the barrel.   I used the saw to go down half the barrel depth on the inside of the marked lines.  Time now to remove wood and install the barrel and tang.

I had a tapered Getz 50 caliber barrel. Mine turned out pretty good.

Later I'll post a photo of my rifle.

[Roger B]

Thanks guys.  I got it........I think.  The original rifle is in .58 caliber and is just barely man portable.  I cannot imagine having to take a quick offhand shot at anything with it, or having to handle it from a horse.  It also has a very interesting rear sight that I am sure is "aftermarket".  The sight is brass with the slot roughly an inch long, and it is really narrow and low, sitting off the top flat of the barrel about 1/8"!  I tried to sight down the barrel and could only come up with a blur of a sight picture.  If you could see the sights I'm sure that you could do some fine shooting with them.
Roger B.

[rich pierce]

Don't forget that your real working pattern is based on YOUR parts. Your barrel including how long the breechplug is and so where the touchhole will be. Your lock and how you have to place it to center on the touchhole, accept the front lock bolt, and center the tail on the wrist as needed. Your guard, your buttplate.

A drawing of the original is necessary but is not the working blueprint.

[Mark Elliott]

I didn't see where anyone else mentioned this, but you need to note the thickness of the sidewall of the forearm.    Also note any variation in thickness of the sidewall  from the lock panel to the muzzle.   As Rich said, your pattern is going to be governed by your parts.   You just need to note those elements of style in the original that are independent of the parts.   Mostly this is going to be in the profile of your buttstock, but even that will be greatly affected by the mounts you choose.   

[jerrywh]

I would go get a barrel like the original.  Or you need to scale the whole gun down.

[Mike_StL]

I promised a picture of my rifle.



It has a little more drop through the comb and some cast off which wsn't in the plans in the
sketch book,

Mike

[Roger B]

Mike; it looks nice!  Did you saw out the patchbox?  I may have to farm that out.

Since I lost all of my patterns after my dad's death, I can't remember stuff.  How much wood do you guys like to keep below the bottom of the ramrod and how much between the barrel and the ramrod channel.

Roger B.

[Mike_StL]

Yes, I got the blank patch box and cut out the box.  I think it only took four or five blades in my jeweler's saw.