More on metal finish

[Molly]

Interesting that another poster raised the metal finish issue.  I have recently tested the product offered by Mr. Kibler.  It is super simple to use and seems to work fast and is not expensive but as far as my preferences go, it is not the look I'm going for on the steel.  Might be great on brass however.

So, I obtained two short pieces of barrel scrap and also tested the Laurel Mt. product (browner).  On those small sections it also was easy to use, took a little longer to get where I wanted, but after about 2 days and a little work, it looked perfect.

So, this steel finishing would be a snap!  NO it has been a pain in the butt plate!!

I applied it as per the directions and immediately got a massive copper toned barrel.  Sanded that all down and tried again, this time putting on even less.  NO RUBBING!  Almost immediately I got a similar effect.  Looked like a case of the copper hives.  Sanded all that down and washed it down good.  Tried yet a 3rd time with a patch of most rag no more that 1 inch square and a light does of the chemical.  No immediate copper color but some where the end of one stroke slightly overlapped with the beginning of the following stroke but early signs were good.

Got up this morning to a copper tube looking barrel.  Sanded it all down a 4th time and an thinking of a different product.

[n stephenson]

There are many things that will work. I`ve found the easiest way for me is to file, prepare the metal and degrease it. Then I just cover it with Birchwood Casey bluing , either perma blue or super blue which ever one they`ve got at the store , I can`t tell much difference. Then leave it on there , don`t rinse or wipe or anything. It will start rusting in just a few minutes , let sit, reapply, repeat until it gets as brown as you want it. I know there are many methods out there but this one is the simplest one I`ve found that gives good results.   

[Barngunguy]

I used aqua fortis to rust blue a lock and barrel.
Very simple to use. Applied several times to get darker color.
I found it to be easier and controlable for color.

[smallpatch]

Molly,
Been using LMF for 20 plus years with great, repeatable results.
Read the instructions and use a sweat box.  The copper comes from too much rubbing, or rubbing too hard.

On a barrel, 2"x2" piece of rag, folded to 1" square, dampen with brown, take one light stroke from one end to the other, go to the next flat and repeat till done. 
Like I said before, I use a sweat box, card every 3 to 12 hours,  ( depending on the type brown you want)  in 36 to 48 hours, I've got browning that you can't knock off with a hammer.

[Mark Elliott]

In my experience, the cooper is what you get to start.   Just put the barrel in a damp box and let things work.  That is if you are interested in a brown finish.  If you are looking for a gray aged finish, then use cold blue and tincture of iodine.

[Molly]

Thanks for the suggestions.  Keep in mind I did two sections of scrap barrel without any problems.  NO copper color and applied as directed.  The same process was used on the actual barrel  repeatedly and it looked like @#$%/!!!  I'm thinking maybe the scrap barrel surfaces were not as smooth as the actual barrel.  I may have gotten it too slick and smooth.  I have Aq F and it sounds simple.  Maybe it's also time to just walk away from the project for a while.  I have been on it hot and heavy for some time now.  My brain says go go go but when it's going this way I think stop stop stop is in order.

[Keithbatt]

I concur with the responses about letting it work. I used the humidity provided by a bit of hot water running in the shower and hanging the barrel in the bathroom. I've noted some copper color occasionally, which per the instructions was usually associated to to much rubbing.

Take that one long stroke with the damp pad, and leave it alone in a humid environment. It will rust. Card per the instructions and just repeat. It WILL even out after a few reps.   I'm not sure if others have been able to get a consistent color on the first application, I have not. I have gotten very deep and even rust color by repeat applications and carding.

Keith

[PPatch]

That copper effect goes away completely by about the third application of LMF. Just keep going, giving a light carding in between coats. You don't need a sweat box if you have humid conditions (I've never needed one). By about the fifth application you should have an even chocolate colored finish.

dave

[rsells]

Molly,
I use Davis brown or Homer Dangler's browning solution I get from James Kline.  Both are cold brown solutions.  I sand the metal down to 220 grit finish, rub them down with alcohol on a cloth, let it dry, and add the liquid cold brown solutions until the surface is wet.  I go back and put the solutions on twice a day for three or four days depending upon the humidity in my area.  When I get the dark brown finish I am looking for, I wash the parts down with water, dry, and apply oil.  I rub the parts down with an oily rag for a few days until I see that the process has stopped.  I get a durable dark brown finish.  Homer's solution is a bit more aggressive than the Davis solution and gives a slightly rougher texture to the parts.  The initial couple coats looks like it is not going to cover well, but just keep up the process and it will turn out OK.  The amount of time required to get the finish like you want may vary depending on the environment in your part of the country.  Good luck with the work.
                                                                         Roger Sells

[Daryl]

I browned a barrel back in the late 70's, using Nitric Acid with a handful of nails dissolved in it.  Wear gloves -  it is really hard on the finger tips or they'll throb for days.

It will stop you from biting your fingernails, though - tastes awful.

[moleeyes36]

Roger,

Do you card between coats of the Danglers solution like is done with the LMF browning solution?

Mole Eyes

[flinchrocket]

http://ibb.co/g3CsJv
Well I can't get the right pop-up for a pic, but if the link works I used Wahkon bay tru-brown and cold blue on this one.

[Molly]

ROGER!!!

Great to hear from you.  My hubby and I were talking about you recently as the one little rifle we got from Mr. W a few years ago has a finish similar to what we would like to have on this project.  We were thinking of adding a patch box like some of the drawings you sent some time ago but a box is over our skill level now and maybe will always be over our skill level.  We are having a hard enough time just getting a toe plate fashioned.  Do you recall the rifle I mentioned?  It has more of an aged "white" finish.  Is the process your described what would produce that look or would it be more "brown"?  Still looking for another of your works.  I don't think we and David R will ever be able to get together.  I understand his situation.  He loves your rifle.  Hopefully you still think of us from time to time and maybe we can see you  this year.  Keep going to the grand kids ball games.  Family is #1.

Thanks again.  We are taking a break for a while on this project so maybe I get some of the Dangler product and have a go at again in a week or two.

Regards, Molly

[Molly]

flinchrocket:  That's a killer box!  It seems there are many ways to skin this cat.  BTW, I have found that working with the LMF product WILL clean the leather dye from your finger tips!

[elkhorne]

Mark,
I like your gray "aged" finish on your rifles. You say in the post above that you use blue and tincture on iodine. Can you elaborate a little like which blue and how you use the tincture of iodine? Thanks and this is getting interesting. Always did like chemistry!
elkhorne

[Herb]

I have used LMF Barrel Brown Degreaser for years and like it.  But there might be something better.  Carl Walker, who was a gunsmith at the old Green River Rifle Works, recently told me he likes Track of the Wolfs True Brown (think that is the name).  He build GRRW rifles for a living and they had their own browning recipe, but he says it has some nasty chemicals in it, and this True Brown is the best he has found.  Told me he browned a barrel in 48 hours in his cold basement (about 60 degrees).  It is not in my Catalog 18, so it is a newer product, will be on their web site.  (Just looked it up, it is Tried and True Browning Reagent).

[rsells]

The process I described will give you a dark brown color and not the French gray aged finish.  If you guys will give me a call at 931-445-3790  I will tell you how I produce it.  It will take a long time to type it up to post on the forum.  Nothing special, and it shortens the time it takes to finish a rifle.  I am home most of the time during the week.

Retta and I are still going to ball games and horse shows to support the grand kits.  This weekend is another one that is stacked full of stuff with them.  I hope to go to the CLA in August if all works out.  I will let you know and visit a bit if I make the trip.
                                                                                             Roger

[Molly]

Roger:

We must leave this morning for a brief but distant trip and will be on the road, returning probably by mid week, next week.  Will call you them.  Don't bother to try to write it all done.  I'll make good notes and we'll enjoy the discussion.

Molly