Period Clothing. Who here makes their own?

[rich pierce]

Will have to check with the other moderators as to whether period clothing is an accoutrement to the longrifle  .  I don't recall seeing any posts about period clothing. I am working  on improving my kit from basic machine sewn generic sutler stuff to hand sewn. Working on a basic lightweight linen shirt this week and have purchased woolen broadcloth material sufficient for a suit for your basic townsperson of the 1760s (breeches, waistcoat, and frock coat). I can sew by hand. It's the construction I find challenging. Some patterns lack instructions that would be helpful for the novice. Who here makes/has made their own clothing?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

That is a worthwhile endeavour Rich.  Though I have always used a machine to sew fabric, I've always made my own clothing.  But I always hand sew my braintanned buckskin duds...and my wife's!

Taylor

[Marcruger]

I am not sure if all of these are valid, but here are some folks I found with a quick search online that have patterns to work by.  My daughter doesn't use patterns and makes her own designs.  I hope these help.  Best wishes,   Marc

FOLKWEAR PATTERNS (patterns)
The Old Fire Station, Box 189, Barnardsville, NC 28709-0189
1-888-200-9099 (phone)
1-828-626-3030 (fax)
http://www.folkwear.com
Email via website

KANNIK’S KORNER, Fritz and Kathleen Kannik, Proprietors (tailor, patterns)
P.O. Box 1654, Springfield, OH 45501-1654
937-325-8385 (phone)
http://www.kannikskorner.com/

MILL FARM PERIOD PATTERNS (patterns)
Available via Smoke and Fire and other sutlers
MODISTE MANTUA-MAKER, Delia R. Stewart-Deatherage
720 Old Colony Drive, Richmond, TX 77469-2123
218-342-5431 (phone)

OLD TIME PATTERNS, Sandy Gowland, Proprietress
PO Box 1395, Kill Devil Hills, NC 27948
(252)294-1362
www.oldtimepatterns.com
email via website

PAST PATTERNS (19th century patterns)
(937) 223-3722 (phone)
http://www.pastpatterns.com/
merchant@pastpatterns.com
8

PEGEE PATTERNS (patterns)
P.O. Box 127, Williamsburg, VA 23187-0127
http://www.pegee.com/
sales@pegee.com

[rich pierce]

A book recommended to me, from Colonial Williamsburg, "Costume Close Up" just came in the mail and looks like just what I need.

[Kermit]

I've sewn my own for decades. I have a 1936 Singer "Featherweight" that I use for all the stitching that doesn't show, and finish by hand. It's not that tough to learn. You'll learn some things about authenticity as you go--especially fabrics. Dive in and go for it. Speed is not important.

[Keb]

I've made many of my own clothes in the past back when my eyes were better. However, I was always too impatient to hand sew seams that would never be seen. collars and cuffs were hand done. Now I buy all my stuff from Ft. Downing Trading Co. down Florida way.

[bob in the woods]

I make my own moccasins, and leggings. My wife makes all the other clothing.  Linen , wool or buckskin, she hand stitches everything. 

[KentSmith]

I have learned to hand sew all of mine and my family's outfits.  Like playing Pac Man you had to spend a lot of quarters to get good.  Or like building guns.  For my wife's duds, it is easier to pay someone else to sew.  I am proficient but slow.  I find Kanick's Korner patterns seem to work best for me. Most pattern sources are limited, providing basic patterns but you must learn to adjust them according to your needs.  For those of us in central VA, we can go to Williamsburg where they have monthly costuming sessions where you can learn to put a waistcoat or breeches together like the pro's do.  Kind of an NMLRA Seminar for sewing.  That's the best way to learn, find someone who sews, show them what it is you are making and get them to help you work it out.  Local seamstresses will be helpful. Will save lots of time in the end.

[rich pierce]

A class would be great. For me it's the assembly details that I need help on. Like when making a waistcoat or frock coat, do I interface and line both front sides completely before attaching to backs, etc. Types of seams and which layers to include when joining pieces. Order of assembly.

[bob in the woods]

Take a look at Beth Gilgun's book, " Tidings from the 18th Century"   There is some good information re: construction, seams etc
It's worth the price just for the read in general. 

[KentSmith]

http://thedreamstress.com/2011/08/making-an-18th-century-mans-jacket-pattern-and-interfacing/ link to a blog that may help with your immediate issue.  Some of these sewing blogs get a bit silly but they have bits and pieces of info that are helpful.   Also a good link about measurements and making adjustments to patterns - https://www.nps.gov/guco/planyourvisit/upload/18th%C2%A0%20Century%20Tailor%20GUCO.pdf

Yes, I attach the lining and interfacing (except at the armholes of course) before attaching the back.  As it is sewn inside out you need the armholes not completed so you can reverse the fabric right side out.  You can PM me if you have other questions.  The farmer's wife next door does this stuff for a living so I have a pretty good resource at hand.  My wife doesn't sew.  Need to be more careful next time I am shopping.

[rich pierce]

Take a look at Beth Gilgun's book, " Tidings from the 18th Century"   There is some good information re: construction, seams etc
It's worth the price just for the read in general.

I've got that one and agree it's a dandy for getting started. Some of the patterns are pretty generic. Frock coat pattern lacks the pleats usually seen in the back of period coats.

[rich pierce]

And thanks, Kent, will PM with questions as they arise.

[KentSmith]

You need to work those details in yourself on most of these sources.  I think I had to consult a half dozen different patterns, links and other sources to sew a sleeved waistcoat.  They all use different jargon and different levels of detail.  Some assume you've been doing this forever.  Good work for cold winter evenings.  That's were a class or workshop really helps.

[conquerordie]

The most common advice given to builders on this website is handle originals. Clothing is no different. I hand stitched all my clothes when I reenacted the F&I and Rev wars. My last coat was taken off a pattern from an original up at Fort Ticonderoga. One of the employees made the pattern from the original, with all the stitching details. He then sized it for me while I was up there making fascines , and then taught me all the stitches per inch required for the different piece. The back seam was like 8 stitches per inch, but the cuffs were 12. The lapels a different number. Trust me he counted them on the original  and mine!
So long story short, do what you do with original flintlocks, observe originals at museums or historic sites and go from there. And get a good book on tailoring. I started with Beth Gilguns book, bought it from her in person up at Fort No. 4 over twenty years ago. She even autographed it
Greg

[David R. Pennington]

Rich, I have made most all my stuff. I made a linen lined wool waistcoat and turned my own deer antler buttons for it. I made a broadcloth open hunting coat with linen fringes. I made a pair of breeches out of an old pair of linen slacks, but it was as much work almost as making them from scratch. I have a wool check shirt about 75% done and have made a few other shirts. All hand stiched. Good winter evening projects when I don't feel like making a fire in the shop.
I had the same problem as you on figuring out construction details. The patterns usually only vagely hint at how it goes together. It helped having a daughter studying fashion design at the time I started this. She helped me figure some of it out. I picked up a few old sewing books and gleaned some useful info from them. One thing I learned is how to use a steam iron to set seams and folds etc.,. this really helps with assembly. I also learned to mark well with tailor's chalk and pin accurately. I am as proud of my sewing accomplishments as anything, way out of my comfort zone.
I brought my grandmothers old Montomery Ward treadle sewing machine home from Mom's last weekend. I may try using it to speed up some projects where the seams don't show. I cleaned and oiled it and found out the bobbin shuttle is missing. Probably still at Mom's. I used to sew some on it when I was a kid.
These old machines are amazing. They are so well made, I don't think you could ever wear one out.

[rich pierce]

Finished hand sewing a linen shirt. Turned out ok but I learn that like inletting, good light is needed for good stitching.

Hardest part was the collar. After getting it on there, and not liking the hang of the shoulders, I had to re-set it and do more gathers in the back to have it hang right.  Also not sure how to best stitch a collar on.  Considering the collar as an open envelope sitting atop the top of the shirt, how to best stitch it on?  I sewed right sides of collar and shirt together on the backside of the shirt, then sort of top stitched the front side.  Could not figure out a better way.  Would be easiest to sew through and through all layers but I do not think that is how they were done.