Author Topic: Patch box piercings  (Read 2286 times)

Offline ptk1126

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Patch box piercings
« on: April 19, 2009, 03:41:31 PM »
Are there any particular tips/tricks to inlet a patch box with numerous piercings ?

Are the edges of the piercings beveled as usual ? Do you inlet from the center outwards; i.e.,
for the patch box finial do the piercing first ?

I have tried to inlet one on a practice stock. The outside edge of the box was fine but I did not
do a good job on the piercings.

Thanks
Paul




Offline sz

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Re: Patch box piercings
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2009, 05:51:08 PM »
Yes, that's pretty much it.
:)
I do put a slight draft (bevel) to the cuts and I do inlet from the center to the outside.  When you get the middle inlet flush, use the screws to hold it and inlet one side and then the other side.
There is no easy way, but just going slow and carefully.

Offline Dave B

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Re: Patch box piercings
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2009, 07:24:44 PM »
I know this is always talked about but I find that it makes a big difference having a good pair of optivisors so you can see what is and is not needing to be removed. I like to just go straight down. I found that when you tip things even alittle it changes its position. Going straight down wont let this happen. I use those screws closest to mid line to hold it in place while smoke printing the pattern on to the stock. My rifle vice has padded jaws that allows me to squeeze the smoked patch box on the butt stock leaving a exact pattern that needs to be removed. I then cut away all that is inside this area of print that does not belong. Its pretty tedious but the results are exellent.



Dave Blaisdell

Offline B.Habermehl

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Re: Patch box piercings
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2009, 07:52:43 PM »
Bevel every thing.  I use regular sheat metal screws for working screws. The two outer screws on the front finial will change positions as you inlet. I use a # 2 screw for the working screws.  I inlet the clearance grove for the hinge first , Then screw the finial down and scribe all the details.  You can do the scribe work with a scribe or a knife.  Allways tilt the scribe or knife towards the waste side of a cut.  Then I pull the screws and using a really sharp pencil chase all the scribe marks.  Then I reset the patch box and look for errors.  Then the inletting starts.  I like to be sure the pencil mark remains as I stamp in all the outline cuts.  I will stamp in my outline cuts on a slight draft towards the waste side of any cut.  All the above will ensure no really bad over inlets happen early.  I take my rough inlet nearly to full depth before I worry about fitting the edges.  Then I do the fine work.  I will replace the working screws and countersink last.  You will find the two outer screws will be about 1/32 or so too close together.  I usually will peg  and redrill these. 
BJH