Drilled through the barrel

[Ky-Flinter]

Here is one way to do it. I have a little benchtop drill press. I set a fence up so the top flat rests on the fence and the drill goes exactly where I want it on the lug. Then I clamp the barrel in the stock blank and with the top flat against the fence and the location marked on the wood the hole has to go in the right place. Of course for anything other than a straight barrel the fence has to be set for each lug location.

That's a good technique, but I would add one more suggestion.  With the bare barrel against the fence and the drill bit touching the desired spot on the lug, use a sharpie marker to make a witness mark on the fence and the barrel.  The fence will control the pin location top to bottom, and the witness mark will control the location side to side.  And all this should line the drill up with the location marked on the stock.

-Ron

[Darkhorse]

That's the way I do it also, like I said in my earlier post, almost foolproof. However I still start my holes with a center drill to keep the main drill from running off my spot.

[Mike Brooks]

You guys sure make alot of work out of drilling pins. I just eye ball it and let her rip. Check out my tutorial......

[vulture]

I've always put the barrel in my drill press vise with the top flat solid against the vise jaw, then set the vise so the drill bit will drill exactly where I want it to, then mount the barrel back in the stock, place the top flat back against the same vice jaw and drill.  If I do not move the position of the vise, which means making sure the drill table is locked down solid and can't be jarred out of position, then don't mess with the vice screws so it stays in the exact same position as well every thing comes out great.  I've done this many times and have never had a problem.  If for some reason my lug is not exactly square to the barrel and the bit acts like it is going to wander I simply remove the barrel, the bit has left a mark on the lug and I can then drill the hole with the barrel out of the stock, then put it all back together and drill on through the other side of the stock.  Honestly, I have never had a problem doing it this way, all the measuring I had to do was in positioning the lugs.  I do have to mark the center of the lug on the outside of the stock so I know where to position the bit longitudinally, if that is the right term. 

[Tennessee.45]

Well I finally got the new barrel in the stock and successfully redrilled the underlug holes. How should I go about filling the previous holes? I was thinking either glue or maybe toothpicks?

[ScottH]

If it were me I'd use wood. So toothpicks might work if the diameter is right.

[rich pierce]

Both glue and toothpicks will look dark. Best is to cut out an elongated diamond around the hole. Select a piece of wood from same stock for grain and cut it diamond shape and inlet and glue it into the spot.

[thecapgunkid]

Cut mine into sections, sold 'em on consignment for pistol barrels and used the money for a new lock on the next project.

I'd rather die than try to drill through wood and metal in one shot  Everybody warns you about drilling through wood and metal in one shot.  I tried to drill through wood and metal in one shot.

After watching Jim Turpin's video, I put a level on my drill, faithfully drew the parallel lines on the stock to show barrel bottom and ramrod channel top and notched a t-square to measure and position.   

Now the holes are dead on and the patience is a well learned lesson.  Thank The Good Lord I did not try to shoot it.  Did have to go to confession over Marine Corps Mouth, though...

Don't shoot yore eye out, kid

The Capgun Kid

[Joe S]

Well I finally got the new barrel in the stock and successfully redrilled the underlug holes. How should I go about filling the previous holes? I was thinking either glue or maybe toothpicks?

Toothpicks.  Stain the stock and toothpick first, then glue.  If you use AF for the stain, the repair will be nearly invisible.

[oldtravler61]

  Depending on how fancy your making your gun. Why not just cover with a small inlay?  Oldtravler

[Caprock]

Biggest headaches I've encountered was to drill through a pre shaped stock...especially the curved forend.  Drill bit wants to walk every time....often a long ways and I wonder if thats what happened to you.  You have to go slow and back out frequently as well.   I've found that by mounting a sharp needle or awl point in the chuck and "punching" a shallow starter hole that eliminates the drift.

[Chris Evrard]

Did the same thing at the Chambers kit building class the week before last.....only mine went low instead of high. An easier fix to be sure, but it goes to show that even with experienced builders helping you along the way mistakes do happen!

[Waksupi]

When drilling for under lugs, particularly on a pre-shaped stock.
Do your measurements, and mark both sides of the stock. I lay a small machinist's square across the top of the stock to make sure both sides are marked equally, and then continue the lines down the sides using the square. 
Then use a hand drill, I prefer an old egg beater type, and make small guide holes, just enough to contain the bit in drilling.
Use a vertical centering pin in your drill press vise, and drill half way from each side.
Do not have the barrel in the stock to do this!
Take the stock back to the bench, and use the hand drill again, running it through the holes to assure alignment.
Clamp the barrel into place in the inlet, and once again, use the hand drill to lightly mark the alignment on the lug. Remove barrel, and examine if your placement is correct. If too high or low, plug the holes, and redrill.
Then clamp the barrel into place in the stock, and drill the lugs.

[T*O*F]

Then clamp the barrel into place in the stock, and drill the lugs.

I never do that anymore.  It seems like when the bit breaks thru on the opposite side it forces a bit of metal up that stands proud.  This is especially true with thimbles.  Then you can't remove the buggers without tearing a chunk of wood out of the stock.  Now I spot the tabs, remove from the rifle and drill.  Then reinstall and come in from both sides to line everything up.

[Acer Saccharum]

It seems like when the bit breaks thru on the opposite side it forces a bit of metal up that stands proud.  This is especially true with thimbles.  Then you can't remove the buggers without tearing a chunk of wood out of the stock.  Now I spot the tabs, remove from the rifle and drill.  Then reinstall and come in from both sides to line everything up.

Excellent procedure, Dave.