Rust Bluing question

[ScottH]

I am going through my first attempt at rust bluing. I started with the lock plate and the hammer from a percussion L&R lock, the entry thimble, and the fore end cap. When I applied the solution the first time I did get some copper looking reaction but I ignored it and pressed on following the Laurel Mountain Forge solution directions. I have boiled the pieces three times so far and I’m getting a nice dark nearly black finish.
My question for those who have done this before is: Will there normally be less rust formed after the browning solution is applied on each successive application?
I got pretty good rust forming when I first applied the browning solution and then placed the parts in a warm humid environment – the bathroom with the shower running or hat water in the tub. Now after three cycles of solution and boiling in distilled water it seems like there is less rusting even in a good humid place. Normal?
Thanks,
Scott

[Daryl]

With LMForge solution, one wipe only. IF you rub back and forth, you get copper colour.

[jerrywh]

 The copper color is copper plating formed because of the inclusion of copper sulfate in the solution. When the parts turn copper colored it is an indication of using too much solution. Apply it very sparingly and you will not have that problem. It will usually take three to five applications t odo a good job. The parts will rust less each time [ usually.]  Then boil in [Distilled water].  Some tap water will not produce a black color because of impurities in the water and some tap water will produce a rusty brown color no matter what you do. 

[eddillon]

I would consider it normal.  The black finish is rust.  Each application of the LMF is contacting less un-oxidized iron or steel.  Have you tried to apply in a less humid environment?  May take longer but you will have a much finer grained result.  I breathe on small parts immediately after the LMF appears dry.  Kinda like you wold do to clean sun glasses.  That starts the rusting.  Usually takes 4-5 applications to achieve the color I want.  Highly polished parts maintain their polish and don't become matte finish.  For barrels, I blue before  I drill the vent.  I have 50 inch piece of PVC pipe capped on one end.  I make sure that it is absolutely vertical and then suspend the barrel down the center hanging it by the tang bolt hole.  All this done outside in the event that the apparatus should tip over.  I then pour boiling distilled water over the barrel filing the pipe until the tang is under the water level.  Let the barrel sit in the pipe until the water is cooled down enough not to scald you.  Remove the barrel , wipe off the sooty deposit and card lightly.  A you repeat the process, you can be a little more aggressive with the carding with super fine steel wool.  After the last carding, I wipe it down with a baking soda paste.  Let it sit for a few minutes and rinse off with hot water.  Dry and immediately apply a liberal coat of Johnson's Paste Wax.  So far this has been a foolproof and pleasant way of bluing. 

[ScottH]

Thanks Daryl and Jerry!

My first application of solution I applied with a wool dauber, and yes I figured out that it let me put on to much of the solution.
After that I used q-tips, and they seem to do a good job of applying about the correct amount. I think Jerry answered my question about subsequent rusting. On these parts I think one or at most two more boiling baths in distilled water will be all that is required.
Scott

Ed,
I did notice that breathing on the metal parts did help start the rusting process. Being a rookie at this process it is more like an experiment than a process so far 

[Chowmi]

I don't think you need to boil it after every application. Just once at the end. I did a barrel and lock using LMF.   I did four or five coats of LMF, and only boiled once at the very end.
Also, to do the barrel, I bought a section of PVC pipe about 2.5 inches in diameter and a few inches longer than the barrel.  I glued an end cap on the bottom. I put my barrel in it, then filled the tube with distilled water that had just boiled.  I left it there for 20 minutes. Worked great and gave a nice deep black finish.

Cheers,
Norm

[jerrywh]

 I have a tin tank but a plastic will work just as well.  I place some bent wire bracket across the tank to hold the barrels up off of the bottom about an inch or so. I put about 1/2" of water in the bottom of the tank and suspend the barrel over the water horizontally after the browning solution has dried. I then cover the tank with news paper and spray the paper with a spray bottle until it a slightly damp. The barrel will start to rust very quickly. I peak at them about every hour if they turn dark or blue I take the paper off and leave them until they look rusty brown. I never leave them over night in the tank. If they aren't ready to brush off by quitting time I set them upright in a corner over night and brush them in the morning.
  I brush with a special .003wire brush from Brownell.  Do not wire brush browning at high speed it will just take off all the rust. I run my brush in the drill press at about 700 or 800 rpm. About 3 to 5 applications will do a very nice job. You can apply the solution with a dobber if you blot it first on a paper towel to remove excess solution. Less is better. You can't go wrong with less. Too much will mess you up.

[wilkie]

I have used Brownells dicropan im bluing solution for several years with excellent results.  I DO NOT use a hot water tank.  I apply it as a cold rust blue.  I first polish then remove any oil with acetone or lacquer thinner, then I use an old tooth brush to apply a thin coat of solution and let set for 12-24 hours.  I use a hf stainless steel brush to card the surface then apply another coat of solution and repeat.  About 4-6 coats are needed but no tank or box is needed.  The surface will be whatever you polish it to start with.  After 4-6 coats you can let it stand for a day or two, then oil.  You can touch up scratches by applying solution to scratch without having to remove existing bluing.  This gives you a black oxide surface similar to the hot immersion bluing.  I used this on an o/u shotgun to repair where the bluing had worn off.  I lightly polished and removed any oil then applied about 3 coats of solution.  It was difficult to see the difference in the new and old bluing. 

[jerrywh]

 Oh. I forgot. Do not boil the part after each application of the rusting solution. Finish the rusting process completely and then boil in distilled water for 20 minutes.  Try that.