Length of ramrod vs barrel

[arlen]

How much longer should the overall length of the ramrod be than the length of the barrel?

[James Wilson Everett]

Guys,

I like to make the ramrod as long as possible, until one end touches the front pin tab of the trigger guard and the other end is flush with the muzzle.  Generally this is the overall length of the barrel, when the ramrod is pushed all the way into an empty barrel, it will protrude from the muzzle about the length of the breech plug thread.

Jim

[Daryl]

Exactly - same with mine. Patent breeches (cap-guns or flint) will usually show a bit more rod protrusion above a clean bore.

[Joe S.]

Quess if you cut it to short you can always keep dumping powder down the barrel till you make up the difference,just funnin.Flush with the end of the barrel seems to look right to me.Seen them stick out from the end as well but looks like a snag issue waiting to happen.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I try to make mine as long as possible like the others have already said.

[KentSmith]

Long as possible to the muzzle as above

[Darkhorse]

I make mine to stick out from the muzzle at least a 1/2 inch. Just a little more to get ahold of in case I need it. My rifles get a lot of use in thick woods and the extra length has not been a problem yet.
I saw a photo of Alvin York with his caplock and his RR was sticking out what looked like 4 to 6 inches. That's way beyond what I'd feel comfortable with.

[Joe S.]

Exactly - same with mine. Patent breeches (cap-guns or flint) will usually show a bit more rod protrusion above a clean bore.

Not if you open up a the powder chamber and do a nice radius.

[WadePatton]

I'll have to say this about that:  The use of a ball starter makes the longer than bbl packin' stick an obstruction to loading, unless pulled.  And that's not very convenient.  I don't think the extra-long stick is appealing, though we've all seen it on old guns-which of course rarely have their original packin' sticks.

Heckfire, mine don't even have it's original.   


But also have seen the case where an extended stick would be necessary for proper loading of the gun. The hole is not deep enough and no one has opened the gun up to see why.  It's contemporary and a well-made rifle, but the owner is not the maker. I may look into it next time we hunt.

[chubby]

I like to make 2 for each gun, 1 to match barrel for display & 1 for hunting here in Pa. in Jan. about 3inches longer with grooves for gripping when fingers are cold!   Chubby

[Dave B]

I learned a trick from a guy Who lived in norther kentucky. He was kind enoiugh to have me over to chat when I was back in Centervill OH for a course. Jack Rouse  IIRC Waterton KY?  At any rate he showed me how he made a jig to rout out and angled slot down in the barrel channel so that he could use a universal jointed drill bit to drill into the stock between the trigger guard bolster or front extension screw and add another 1.5" - 2" to his ramrods.  Once he had drilled the ramrod he then had another jig that let him make a plug of wood that filled the routed out section. The bent hole would keep the ramrod from sliding out inadvertently.  Dave Rase has talked about bending the stock just a little when he does his ramrod holes that can do exactly the same thing for a person. If you have to draw a ball when your out in the field it makes a huge difference having that extra couple inches.

[Darkhorse]

I'll have to say this about that:  The use of a ball starter makes the longer than bbl packin' stick an obstruction to loading, unless pulled.  And that's not very convenient.  I don't think the extra-long stick is appealing, though we've all seen it on old guns-which of course rarely have their original packin' sticks.

I've been ML hunting since 1976 and the longer than bbl RR has never been an obstruction. When the prb ball is seated the ball on the starter just pushes it out of the way. This is with the length RR I use, a longer one could become aggravating. As for cutting the patch I just use a knive with a blade 1/2 wide or less that's handy around the muzzle and RR. I'll freely admit though that in the beginning I pulled the stick and propped it against my leg before loading. I don't really remember when I started leaving it in the RR hole.
I don't think the extra long stick is appealing either but it serves a purpose. To me it's not loading, it's unloading, among others. As has been mentioned it makes a huge difference if you have to pull a ball in the field. Another thing is a stuck patch. Even a soaking wet patch can get stuck when the weather causes your fouling to get thick and hard.
These things haven't happened lately, probably due to more accumulated experience, but I once had a few extra long cleaning jags with a threaded thru hole and I'd made some extra long ball pullers that screwed into the end. Somehow they've displaced themselves.

[Mark Elliott]

I make mine exactly the length of the bore and drill the hole a little past the face of the breech plug.   That way,  the rod is flush or a little set back from the muzzle when fully inserted into the pipes/hole.   When you drop it in the barrel you know instantly whether it is loaded or not; it should be flush with the bore.    When cleaning, the jag or wiper gives you your extra length to hold.    That same applies to loading; the load gives you a couple inches.   

As far as I am concerned, the hickory ramrod is just for looks or an emergency.    I use a steel range rod and make one for my buyers if they don't have one.     

[smallpatch]

I like to shoot like our ancestors would have shot.  Out of the bag.  I DO take a range rod for emergencies, In my truck, like my tool box.
I load with the "under barrel" rod.  I just can't believe that our forefathers carried a steel range rod with them. 
To me, the ramrod should be the same length as the bore,  your load brings the rod up enough to grip it.  Same with a cleaning jag.
Never broken even a tapered rod, but I don't try to pull a ball with them either.

[rich pierce]

I think that this question comes from using short jags versus long worm or ball puller attachments such as were originally used. With a 2-3" attachment there's no need for a ramrod longer than the barrel.

[Scota4570]

I prefer a long rod for function and one that matches the barrel length for aesthetics.  One rod can serve both.  I make long jags to use for loading and cleaning.  For display the jag can be stored in the patchbox.  I use a piece of steel all thread at the core of the jag for strength.

[little joe]

Drill mine within quarter inch of TG lug and make them as long as possible with out extending beyond the muzzle.

[Steve-In]

I like mine to have the tip of the jag flush with the muzzle and the other end near the breech as deep as possible.  I do not like the looks of a ramrod sticking out beyond the muzzle, just looks sloppy or poor construction to me.
But if you want it to stick out that is your prerogative.  If you make it flush it is not like the cost of a new ramrod is all that much and not hard to make either.