Author Topic: Sticky 50/50 Tru oil and BLO (Read 7656 times)

Gramps7 · « **on:** July 04, 2017, 07:01:23 PM »

I applied this combination about 2 weeks ago and still tacky. My first build, great experience so far. I am 76 years old and would like to finish this build. I have a can of Zip Strip looking at me but hope you experts might have an easier solution.
Thanks Gramps7

EC121 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 04, 2017, 07:12:39 PM »

You may have put it on too thick. Since it is still tacky you can probably rub it out with some turpentine on a rag to remove the oil and start over. I would use a coat or two of Tru-oil for a base coat to seal the wood. Let it dry hard then rub out the high spots with 4/0 no oil steel wool. If you want an oil finish you can then put on layers of BLO rubbed out very thin. There are many ways to do it.

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #2 on:** July 04, 2017, 07:24:41 PM »

For me I would stay away from the BLO - not a fan of the "junk" - er - stuff

. Your Tru-Oil may be old or the combination of the two are not compatible. If it were me I strip it down and just use the Tru-Oil

.

James Rogers · « **Reply #3 on:** July 04, 2017, 07:34:37 PM »

Gramps,
Try taking a piece of canvas with some straight linseed on it and buff/burnish the heck out of the stock. As you complete the buff in certain areas with the wet canvas, buff dry with a dry piece of canvas, denim, etc.
Synthetic steel wool works as well.

Gramps7 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 04, 2017, 08:24:32 PM »

I have 2 coats of Tru oil on as a base. I thought I had not put this on to thick, I had read several posts about not putting any on thick.

rich pierce · « **Reply #5 on:** July 04, 2017, 08:33:07 PM »

BLO works for some people. Might depend on climate, elevation, sunlight, patience, skill and phase if the moon. Those things never lined up for me. If it's a boiled linseed oil-based varnish, that's another thing.

smart dog · « **Reply #6 on:** July 04, 2017, 08:43:08 PM »

HI,
Wipe it down with mineral spirits and then put it out in the sun for a whole day. You may not know this, but Tru Oil is polymerized linseed oil. There really is no reason to add the BLO. If the Tru oil is too shiny, just rub it back a little after it is dry and cured.

dave

davec2 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 04, 2017, 09:35:21 PM »

What Smart Dog said.....and sun, sun, and more sun. Turn often.

SingleMalt · « **Reply #8 on:** July 04, 2017, 10:14:51 PM »

I use two bottles of Tru-Oil. One, I cut 50/50 with turpentine, the second, I leave alone. Apply light coats of the thinned oil until it starts to build a sheen. After it's dry, apply light coats of the full strength Tru-Oil until you're happy with it.

In this case, I agree, wipe it down with mineral spirits and hang it in the sun. And, buy some fresh Tru-Oil just to be certain.

hanshi · « **Reply #9 on:** July 04, 2017, 11:49:34 PM »

I've also "cut" True Oil with turpentine to make it dry quicker. It's an excellent way to assure you don't put it on too thick.

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #10 on:** July 04, 2017, 11:58:56 PM »

Quote from: P.W.Berkuta on July 04, 2017, 07:24:41 PM

For me I would stay away from the BLO - not a fan of the "junk" - er - stuff . Your Tru-Oil may be old or the combination of the two are not compatible. If it were me I strip it down and just use the Tru-Oil .

Now I am the opposite no fan of Tru-Oil but Linseed Oil mixed with turpentine "mulled" over a slow heat for a couple of hours then add a couple of drops of Japan Dryer (original mix contained lead oxide for a dryer) makes a very nice finish.
Dennis

Turtle · « **Reply #11 on:** July 05, 2017, 12:19:01 AM »

With a different tacky finish I brushed japan dryer on the surface and it helped.

smallpatch · « **Reply #12 on:** July 05, 2017, 04:59:32 PM »

Dennis just turned linseed oil into oil varnish.
Home made true oil.

Gramps7 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 05, 2017, 07:27:04 PM »

I thank all of you for your information. It looks like one of the main ingredients to fix my problem is sun,and more sun.I am also getting some mineral spirits today to help move this along.This has been a great journey for me, starting with a curly maple plank, creating my stock design, buying all my hardware waiting for the stock to dry so I can put the hardware on.
Could not have gotten as far as I am without this GREAT site.
Thanks again, Gramps7

Scota4570 · « **Reply #14 on:** July 05, 2017, 07:30:29 PM »

I have finished over 100 stocks. I have used a bunch of Tru-oil. I have no use for it anymore. It does not build a decent film, it has very low solids. It could take 50 coats to do what can accomplished in one coat of conversion varnish.

Fill the grain before you start applying top coats. This is key to any wood finishing. Trying to fill the grain with tru-oil, or any wipe on finish, is a waste of time and accomplishes nothing.

As for you current sticky mess..... Don't set it in the sun to get harder and stickier, that will just make more work. Cut the goo off with scotchbrite and a solvent, like mineral spirits. The sticky goo can be used to fill the grain. Then let it dry a day. Apply thinned BLO. When it gums again, wipe it down with a rag. When it looks filled, wax it.

Dphariss · « **Reply #15 on:** July 06, 2017, 07:18:40 AM »

Quote from: Gramps7 on July 04, 2017, 07:01:23 PM

I applied this combination about 2 weeks ago and still tacky. My first build, great experience so far. I am 76 years old and would like to finish this build. I have a can of Zip Strip looking at me but hope you experts might have an easier solution.
Thanks Gramps7

Your BLO must not have had the proper driers. Or it was actually raw oil.
Tru-oil is a somewhat oil varnish that sets really fast so 50-50 real BLO should work great. Have you tried putting it in the sun? I would not zip strip it. And define tacky. I would rub it off with burlap if its gummy. Remember BLO never gets hard unless it has some resins added to to it nor should it be a built up finish. So get some burlap and see if it will rub off. If not try some 0000 steel wool and BLO as a lubricant to remove it then wipe dry.... Put it in the sun OUTSIDE, for a couple of hours on a side....
Never leave a heavy coat of BLO on a stock unless its a varnish. Its not for built up finishes, though the T-O should make it into a pretty decent oil varnish.
I don't know of a BLO on the market that is usable on a gunstock as it comes from the container.
Dan

jerrywh · « **Reply #16 on:** July 06, 2017, 05:14:14 PM »

BLO is a lousy finish to begin with and I used it about 50 years ago myself. That cured me although it did come out very nice back then. If applied it must be applied very thin and it shout dry about a week in between coats. It is a very slow process. Now days we are lucky to have so many other options.

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #17 on:** July 06, 2017, 06:15:54 PM »

Quote from: smallpatch on July 05, 2017, 04:59:32 PM

Dennis just turned linseed oil into oil varnish.
Home made true oil.

That may be but it sure looks much better than TruOil. TruOil does not look like an oil finish to me.
It might if I rubbed it back, never tried that.
Dennis

Dphariss · « **Reply #18 on:** July 07, 2017, 06:22:16 AM »

There are a lot of "boiled" linseed oils out there. Most are designed to paint on fences oil log houses or mix with oil paints for a barn.
I have made a lot of shop made boiled oil. SOME of it seems to loose its drying quality in a year or so and needs to be reheated. Other stuff does not.
Bottom line. Don't use hardware store BLO for stock finish unless you simply put on one soaking coat and then hunt with the rifle.
It needs to be modified by heat and added driers and acid reduction some resin helps too.
With shop made oil/oil varnish I can and repeatedly have done a filled finish on American Walnut in 2-3 days in summer and maybe a week in winter. But it requires knowing HOW to do it and HOW to make the oil. Soilds in the oil are not really needed. Just a well cooked oil that is heavy bodied. Thick like molasses. It will kick over well enough to rub off with 0000 or burlap in maybe 2 hours in bright sun if turned a time or two to get the UV on all the oil. I have stopped using oil without some resin in it. It greatly improves the water resistance. The brown varnish often found on original rifles is generally BLO with Rosin or other soft resin like Gum Arabic cooked into it. Spar varnish as used to hundreds of years on ship masts and spars was a "fat" linseed oil varnish. It was the most durable finish for the use.
Many of the modern finishes that are so popular are relatively short lived. There are rifles in museums with "brown" varnish finished that have no checking or chipping to this day. It will WEAR off but it does not craze or check as many if not all the hard modern varnishes will.

Dan

Scota4570 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 07, 2017, 06:05:52 PM »

Quote from: Dennis Glazener on July 06, 2017, 06:15:54 PM

Quote from: smallpatch on July 05, 2017, 04:59:32 PM
Dennis just turned linseed oil into oil varnish.
Home made true oil.

That may be but it sure looks much better than TruOil. TruOil does not look like an oil finish to me.
It might if I rubbed it back, never tried that.
Dennis

Build up a dozen coats of true oil after the grain fills. Cut it back with #600 wet dry paper, used wet, just enough to knock the buggars off. Rub it out with Dupont automotive rubbing compound on a damp rag. If you break throught the finish build up a bunch more coats and try again.

It is much easier and better to do this type of thing with sprayed on conversion varnish or bowling pin finish.

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #20 on:** July 07, 2017, 07:56:26 PM »

Quote

It is much easier and better to do this type of thing with sprayed on conversion varnish or bowling pin finish.

Think I will stick to black wood filler for open grain walnut then followup with three coats of Chambers Oil Finish, fool proof and pretty quick for a beautiful oil finish. For maple/cherry skip the wood filler.
Dennis

deepcreekdale · « **Reply #21 on:** July 07, 2017, 08:18:25 PM »

I am with Dennis on this. I have used, made, mixed and tried pretty much every finish out there since the mid 1970's. I used to like experimenting. But now, I only use Chambers finish. It is fool proof, incredibly easy, dries fast and looks great. It is the only finish I plan on using from here on out. If you want to agonize over finish building up in your carving, incomplete drying, too much gloss, not enough gloss, go ahead and use something else.

Mikeh · « **Reply #22 on:** July 08, 2017, 02:31:19 PM »

Scota4570, what is black slackum? Guess i'm not familiar with that or maybe there's another term? Thanks, Mikeh

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Author Topic: Sticky 50/50 Tru oil and BLO (Read 7656 times)

Gramps7

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Turtle

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