Drill bit and tap questions

[mustanggt]

Still draw filing the barrel. Went to install touch hole liner and saw that it wasn't ready to go, so I need the proper size tap 1/4-32. I'm also looking for numbered bits instead of fractional. I've needed them for a long time now so no time like the present. There are a bewildering amount of choices through web search. I was hoping you guys might help me narrow it down a bit. Quality is more important to me than price. I do have a craftsman SAE set that works well for regular work but no dice on that specific size. Thanks

[smylee grouch]

I think you can get the proper  sizes from TOTW for the white lightning vents.

[BOB HILL]

You can get them from Jim Chambers. Give them a call, gas and bits.     Bob

[Dale Halterman]

Pretty sure the tap drill is a lettered size, not numbered. If you bought the liner from track, are you sure it has the same threads as a Chambers white lighting?

Dale H

[rick/pa]

Is the size 1/4 x 32 or 1/4 x 28?  I have several that are 28 tpi.

[mustanggt]

I bought it from Jim Kibler, his kit rifle. It says #4 drill bit and 1/4-32.

[Jim Kibler]

I bought it from Jim Kibler, his kit rifle. It says #4 drill bit and 1/4-32.

Mustanggt,

If you are installing a liner in our kit barrel, it should be tapped.  If it isn't, please let me know.

Thanks,
Jim

[BOB HILL]

Chambers carries both the tap and drill.    Bob

[okieboy]

 I don't want to confuse you, but technically there is no one correct size drilled hole for a given tap size even though there are drill sizes that are commonly used. Using different size drills will give you different Percentages of Threads. That is, an absolutely maximum thread will be 100% or conversely for a 1/4-32 a 1/4" drill would give you 0% (not good). Generally threads are produced at 60-66% as this gives close to maximum strength while reducing torque on the tap (so that it doesn't break). When you look at a Tap Drill Chart it should give you a percentage of thread, if it doesn't, use a different chart.
 Here is a tap drill chart for you.
 http://www.harveytool.com/secure/Content/Documents/Tap_Drill_Chart.pdf

[Mark Elliott]

I think I bought my taps for the White Lightning liners from TOTW.   However,  I normally buy my taps, dies, drills, etc... from MSC.    I bought a complete drill bit set (fractional, wire, letter) a long time ago.   I don't remember where I got the set, but I think it came from either MSC or Brownells.   I can highly recommend purchasing a complete set.   You will need letter drills for the White Lightning liners.   I got all the standard size taps from my grandfather; he was a machinist.    For all the other sizes,  I bought them mostly from MSC.   I usually buy taps by the set; taper, plug, bottom.   If you just need one drill bit,  many ACE hardware stores carry individual fractional and wire gauge drill bits.   When you buy single size drill bits from MCS, you have to buy them by the dozen.   

Here is a link to a relatively inexpensive set from MSC  https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01186709

[PPatch]

I second Mark for MSC as a source for all sorts of wonderful metal working stuff.

The chart below may help with tap and bit sizes.

[okieboy]

 When you buy single size drill bits from MCS, you have to buy them by the dozen.   

Mark, some of us NEED to buy them by the dozen!

[45-110]

if you invest in a quality set of drill bits, get the split point ones as they wander less when starting.  a stub length spoting drill is also a worthwhile buy....get a couple of sizes carbide being the best choice.

[horologist]

MSC is a great source for all sorts of stuff. Years ago I bought a Chicago Latrobe screw machine length set of the cobalt wire gauge drills. The set is pretty expensive now and perhaps ordering the individual bits you need is more practical.  I would avoid carbide unless you want to drill through hardened steel. Carbide is great but very unforgiving. The key is to buy US made drills and taps.  I once bought sets of Chinese 61 to 80 wire gauge drills from MSC, the price was too good to pass up. The first time I tried to use one the drill failed and ruined a part  on which I had spent several hours of careful machining. Cheap cutting tools are never a bargain.

Troy

[mustanggt]

MSC is who I was looking at. I'm not going to go with the cheap Chinese $#@*. Years ago I bought cheap tools because I had a family to feed but now that I'm a lot older I have sworn only to buy good quality and USA made if at all possible. Thanks for the help.

[Chowmi]

I bought it from Jim Kibler, his kit rifle. It says #4 drill bit and 1/4-32.

Mustanggt,

If you are installing a liner in our kit barrel, it should be tapped.  If it isn't, please let me know.

Thanks,
Jim

Don't forget what Jim said above....    Unless you want the tap for other projects, you shouldn't need one for his kit.  it's already done.

Norm

[Scota4570]

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drilling-bits.html?AttribSel=Price+Range%3D%27%24100+-+%24300%27&CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FPower%2BTools%252F%252F%252F%252FDrilling%2BBits&RequestData=CA_AttributeSelected


115 Pc Cobalt Drill Bit Set
WarriorŪ - item#61886

These are not bad.  The cheaper set is not very good.  I could never function in my shop without a complete set of bits.  I never rely on a bit to not wander.  You must make a center punch mark and drill the first hole undersized. 

[mustanggt]

I got with Jim and cleared up my misunderstanding. I was confused about the directions because it was already D&T'd for the liner so I was confused why I had to so I thought I had to do it to the liner itself because there is no touch hole on the one side of it. I figured out that you use that part to wrench it into place and he told me that once it was hacksawed off, the hole would be there. This is all new to me so it is easy to confuse me on something I've never done before. Thanks for the help fellas.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I got with Jim and cleared up my misunderstanding. I was confused about the directions because it was already D&T'd for the liner so I was confused why I had to so I thought I had to do it to the liner itself because there is no touch hole on the one side of it. I figured out that you use that part to wrench it into place and he told me that once it was hacksawed off, the hole would be there. This is all new to me so it is easy to confuse me on something I've never done before. Thanks for the help fellas.

SO -- when you went to the "source" (maker of the kit) you got the correct answer -- gee -- that was simple . I'm glad you got the issue solved

Everyone has their preference as to what constitutes a GOOD drill bit material and a lot depends on what material you are drilling. A drill bit too hard and it will fracture if not run at proper speed & feed. Too soft and they will wear faster but break less -- makes sense to me. Don't buy drill bits made out of the specialty materials unless you know how to use them - H.S.S drill bits work VERY well in MOST (98%) situations. Plus if you drill MANY holes it pays to get a Drill Doctor to sharpen up the worn larger drills - the smaller ones are cheap to replace. Try looking here <http://www.toolsavings.com/shop.aspx>

[T*O*F]

What's the deal with the spiral taps you see advertised.  I assume they hold more chips without binding.

ps:  taps come with different amounts of flutes.  Gunsmith taps as sold by Brownells are stronger than the utility grade taps you buy from most places.

[mustanggt]

I was trying to make a range rod for the .36 cal when I needed to tap a 10-32 hole to accept the jag. This is brass and I made one last year for my two .50 cal rifles so I kept turning the tap and it didn't feel like it was getting any bite so I looked at the thread cutters on the tap and they were worn down almost to nothing and I only used it once on brass!!!??? WTH is that??? I had to get out my magnifying glasses to see that it was made in china. Proud of that one they (Sears) are.

[flehto]

I've still got HSS taps from when I was a toolmaker in the early 70s and they're all 2 fluted. The steels used in building MLers is soft stuff compared to the tool steels used for stamping dies....try tapping D5 air hardening tool steel. Every 10 holes req'd a new tap....but the "dull" taps were OK for the oil hardening tool steels.

The tapping was done in a drill press w/ a reverse button and a quality tapping fluid was mandatory.

The tap size that we never used was #10-24....switched to #10-32 ......Fred

[L. Akers]

My source for quality taps of all kinds is McMaster-Carr.  They will sell you taps in any quantity, and are usually priced lower than MSC.

[Steve-In]

Check out local machine tool suppliers too.  Might save you in shipping and handling.  Greenfield, Vermont, OSG are a few quality tap makers.

[chubby]

T*O*F, I use spiral taps on all of the blind holes, from 8/32 n up. the chips spiral up out of the hole while you are tapping! no chips in the hole to bind! I go with a lead then a bottom tap.    Chubby