smaller soldering torch or tip???

[Bigmon]

I'll bet you guys can help me with this one.
When I need to solder on a lug or sight to a round barrel, I been using the same torch I used when I plumbed my house.
Oh, it works and nothing has came loose.  But I know I been using allot more heat and solder  than needed and over more area.
I been wanting to get a finer torch or tip to use on my propane tank but don't know what to get or where to get it.
I am curious as to what you all use or any suggestions you can offer.
I have a few Oct to Rd barrel projects in the future and might as well improve my techniques before I start.
Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated.

[bama]

I use MAP Gas, the problem most have is soldering is not using a good flux or getting the metals to hot. Solder will not adhere if you do not flux or over heat. I tin the lug, locate it on the barrel, clamp in place and heat the barrel slowly from the opposite side of the lug. When the barrels surface reaches the temperature of the melting point of the solder the solder will flow to the barrel. I forget to mention the I also flux the barrel where the lug is going. I also use Brownells 44 40 low temp silver solder and the flux that they recommend with this solder. You should not have excess use of solder if you use this method.

[Bill Raby]

This is what you are looking for. You can get all different size tips.

https://www.riogrande.com/product/smith-little-torch-propane-and-oxygen-set-for-disposable-tanks/500090

This is the cheapest way to go if you are not do a lot of torch work. It is pretty much the standard jewelers torch. Plenty of heat for anything you will do on a gun other than casting butt plates and such. If you use a torch very often, get a normal pair of regulators and oxygen tank. The torch works fine with that. Would recommend standard propane tanks for fuel. Skip acetylene. If you need to weld, get an electric welder. Propane is plenty of heat for soldering. Hydrogen is much better for fuel. But it fairly expensive and likely to be special order from the welding supply place. It also leaks. Buy a tank of it and if you do not use it for a while the tank is likely to be empty next time you need it. Thats just how hydrogen is.

[Mark Elliott]

I use the Smith Little Torch with propane and oxygen.   With the rosebud tip,  there is plenty of heat to harden a small part.   

[P.W.Berkuta]

Gee -- I must have been doing it all wrong for soft lead solder and Stay-Brite ? I just have been using the propane bottles and Bernzomatic torch tip from the local hardware store . Not have had any failures to join parts. If I need more heat I break out the oxy-acetylene Victor torch which I use for welding, brass brazing and high temp silver brazing.

[Bigmon]

P.W.
Sir, that's what I'm talking about.
That's all I have ever used and I have never had a failure.
I am just looking for a smaller tipped torch so I can be more focused at one smaller area.
Do a little neater job, etc.
Thats what I'm trying to find, just a smaller torch, same fuel,.
Thanks

[horologist]

Your current torch is probably about perfect, I think a smaller tip will make things more difficult.  You can turn the flame down a little. Soldering a small part to a much more massive part can be tricky. With a smaller tip you will end up with much more localized heating and could end up heating the barrel much hotter than is required.  If you are looking for a neater job then I suspect you are using too much solder. Flux the parts and place with the edge of one seam at the top, then cut off a couple of *tiny* chips of solder and place on the seam. It takes far less than you think. Heat the opposite side of barrel near the sight/lug gently and let the heat radiate into the sight / lug. The flux will begin to boil and then the solder will suddenly wick into the seam, making a nearly invisible joint. Solder tends to flow towards the heat, you should see a thin line of solder at the seams, clean the flux and any excess solder and you are done.

Troy

[T*O*F]

But I know I been using allot more heat and solder  than needed and over more area.

Place your sight on the barrel and trace around it with a carpenter's pencil using the wide flat part so you leave a thick line.  Solder won't stick to graphite.  Tin the barrel and bottom of the sight.  Wipe them so you don't have big blobs of solder, as the part will move when you solder them together.  Clamp the sight to the barrel and hit the sight with your heat.  They will fuse together.  Add any additional solder you feel you need at this time.  Everything should remain within the graphite lines and there should be minimal cleanup required.  Also works for underlugs and thimbles soldered to under ribs.  No special tip is required.

[Bigmon]

WoW!! Guys,
Now that is knowledge learned.
I can't wait to try both methods.
Very interesting!!
Thanks so much