Tracing the lock mortise

[Uncle Alvah]

What is the preferred manner of tracing the outline of the lock plate onto the stock.
I have tried an x-acto and a razor knife, but the blade tended to try and follow the grain(ash). I'm thinking of a sharp sharp scribe point to lay down the initial outline maybe?

[deepcreekdale]

I know it is not always recommended technique, but I outline the mortise after inletting the bolster, with a very sharp pencil. Then, I cut straight down with either a straight chisel or appropriate gouge jUST inside the pencil line. After roughing out the plate mortise, it might take a few light cuts with those same chisels or gouges to get it to seat using inletting compound of choice. Especially if using very curly wood, this prevents any cuts from following twists and curls in the grain. Like you, using a fine blade seems to make it want to wander in the grain. Plus, Exacto blades always seem to have their tips break off.

[n stephenson]

Are you talking about tracing, or , cutting in the outline?

[Mike Brooks]

Pencil, then stab in with a chisel just inside the line.

[Scota4570]

I use a thin chisel, like a narrow exacto knife blade, and the end is rounded.  I plunge down with the flat side toward the lock and rock it a bit.  Be sure and angle toward the middle to follow the draft you filed on the plate.  Probably a good idea to secure the plate with the lock bolts or hot melt glue for this step.  I've been installing the lock bolts and using them to hold the plate.  Pencil marks are fine for a fail safe but they are not a real accurate way to locate the cut.  Once I have the outline established I use my mill and a nice new bit to hog out the middle.  It is only a matter of touching up the edges at that point.  Once it it 98% there, I heat the plate to straw color and push it in the inlet.  It will form the wood to a perfect fit. 

[T*O*F]

I'm thinking of a sharp sharp scribe point to lay down the initial outline

You are exactly right.....once you have inlet the bolster.  Then clamp the plate in place and trace around it.  The scribe will not follow the grain and also gives you a small trench to locate your chisel when stabbing in.

[P.W.Berkuta]

Pencil, then stab in with a chisel just inside the line.

Me too -- I use to use an Xacto knife with the #11 blade but I found that they flex too much and I also broken off the tip a "FEW" times then I had to dig out the broken tip -- not fun ! I now use a thin small bladed straight chisel and walk it around the inside of the pencil line.

[Jim Kibler]

I've done this lots of ways, but I much prefer using a single bevel marking knife.  The single bevel allows the knife to be perpendicular or just a touch of an angle when marking the outline.  I've not had problems with it following grain.  It's always best to pay attention to grain direction, though. 

With this method, I gouge out a small trough inside the scribed line with a veiner.  Next I put the chisels or gouges directly in the scribed line and stab in.  This provides a spot to locate the tools.  The inside wood is then of course removed.  With this technique, I sometimes can get a perfect fit without any additional fitting.

This is a method that John Bivins talked about and I've found it to be excellent.

Jim

[Dewster257]

I like to resharpen the xacto with broken tips. I shape a thin rounded tip that is much easier to use especially around tight curves and it never breaks.

[Uncle Alvah]

Are you talking about tracing, or , cutting in the outline?

Cutting in the outline

[smart dog]

Hi,
I used to do it exactly as Jim Kibler described but now I do it as Mike Brooks describes.  The reason for the change is that when I cut the border so perfectly tight to the lock plate I would inevitably have to scrape away the edge after I stained the stock because the wood swells and the part no longer fits. Now I trace the lock with a sharp pencil and stab in on the inside edge of the line. I do this now for all but the smallest inlays.

dave

[SingleMalt]

File a slight draft, or bevel onto the inside edge of the lockplate.  I've tried several methods.  Stabbing it in with the lockplate clamped into place to a pencil line.  After a time, I settled on Dave's method, except I'm using the draft of the lockplate as a guide.

[deepcreekdale]

Thanks for that tip Dewster. I never thought of that. I have been using Xacto knives since I was a boy, I am in my mid 60's now and never thought of rounding the tips. One tip I learned with Xacto knives back when I built model ships, get 3 handles. In one, have a new, sharp blade that you use for the finest cutting and trimming, in a second one, have a decent sharp blade that might be a little worn or have a broken tip, on the third, you can have a blade that might be a little rough but is still good for slicing pieces or opening boxes or other rougher shop uses. The handles are cheap and come in different colors so they are easy to tell apart. This will make your blades last much longer since you won't be tempted to use your brand new sharp blade to scrape off dried finish or glue. To be honest, I rarely sharpen the blades, I tend to buy them in bulk and just replace them out of the third, or dull handle when they are unusable and start a new rotation.

[B.Habermehl]

I have all ways used the scribe method. I inlet the bolster, then scribe around the plate. You still need to be aware of the wood grain just as you do with a knife. Don't forget to locate and lay out the web between the barrel channel bottom and ram rod hole before you inlet the bolster. Always file a couple of degrees of draft on the edges of the lock plate before I letting. BJH

[Jim Kibler]

I think it's worth stressing the importance of a single bevel if using a marking knife.  The single bevel allows the edge of the part to be ridden and the knife to be held perpendicular to the work piece.  This isn't the case with a double bevel knife or a scribe.  I've seen lots of piddling around with other methods and I feel strongly this is the way to go. 

Jim

[smart dog]

Hi,
I agree strongly with Jim about the single bevel knife so it can be held vertical to the edge and ride it. If you are going to use a knife, remember, the cut does not have to be deep. If you are going to go back and stab in the outline, the knife cut only has to be deep sufficient to catch the edge of your stab in tool. Cutting lightly helps prevent the grain from diverting your blade.

dave

[Mike Brooks]

I think it's worth stressing the importance of a single bevel if using a marking knife.  The single bevel allows the edge of the part to be ridden and the knife to be held perpendicular to the work piece.  This isn't the case with a double bevel knife or a scribe.  I've seen lots of piddling around with other methods and I feel strongly this is the way to go. 

Jim

Use a pencil and you don't have to worry about that stuff. Many ways to skin a cat it seems. I have been using my method for 37 years now. Obviously there seems to be many ways to get the job done, it's all about what seems to work best for you. I use a pencil to mark around all the parts and inlays that are inlet into the stock, I suppose you exacto fellows do the same as well but use a knife.
 H House uses an exacto blade with a rounded tip to do much of his carving. I have watched him and marvel at his control. I could never do it that way.

[Jerry V Lape]

Jim Kibler am I correct in assuming you are running the unbeveled side of the knife along the lock plate?   

[Jim Kibler]

Jerry,

Yes, the unbeveled side is held against the part.


Mike,

Yes, there are many ways to go about a job.  I could make a gun with a shard of flint, but it wouldn't be my first choice   Everybody should use whatever method they feel best about.  I'm simply sharing my views on what is most efficient and produces the best results in my experience.  Now, I don't have 37 years behind me, but I have been told I make a decent gun.

Jim

[Mike Brooks]

Jerry,

Yes, the unbeveled side is held against the part.


Mike,

Yes, there are many ways to go about a job.  I could make a gun with a shard of flint, but it wouldn't be my first choice   Everybody should use whatever method they feel best about.  I'm simply sharing my views on what is most efficient and produces the best results in my experience.  Now, I don't have 37 years behind me, but I have been told I make a decent gun.

Jim

You make a far better gun than I do, 37 years doesn't compare with your  talent.