Kibler kit question

[varsity07840]

This question is for those of you who have built one already. In my previous builds I drilled through the tang, sock and trigger plate in one operation for the tang bolts. Given that the holes in the stock and tang are already drilled and the tang holes are countersunk, how do you drill at the correct angle
to get the bolt head dead nuts with the countersink? Am I making a big deal out of nothing?

[GA Turner]

There is a jig which clamps over the stock. Aligns the hole opening with a guide for the drill. Several of the builders on this site offer them for sale.
Used one on my kibler SMR and worked great.

[varsity07840]

There is a jig which clamps over the stock. Aligns the hole opening with a guide for the drill. Several of the builders on this site offer them for sale.
Used one on my kibler SMR and worked great.

Where'd you get it?

[Dennis Glazener]

Going from memory on the two I did. You need to properly seat the tang/barrel then seat the trigger plate in place, hold them in place with bar clamp. Then using a drill bit that tightly fits the hole thru the stock hand drill it enough to spot the center of the hole in the plate. Then change to the proper clearance bit for the tang bolt, 8x32 threads I think it was, then drill the hole in the trigger plate. (make sure point of drill is centered in the "spot"/center) Then without removing the part, insert the proper tap and thread the trigger plate. If tap is not long enough start tap as deep as possible the remove the plate and tap to finish the threading.
Dennis

[Dennis Glazener]

You do not need the jig mentioned, use the hole thru the stock for proper alignment.
Dennis

[Bigmon]

Don't know about the first kit offered, but this new Colonial rifle is advertised as "all holes" being drilled.
I would assume that includes the  bolts etc??
Could be wrong but that's what I believe it says?

[smallpatch]

The holes in the stock ARE drilled. You still have to drill and tap the lock, trigger plate, etc.

[Mike Brooks]

The holes in the stock ARE drilled. You still have to drill and tap the lock, trigger plate, etc.

Oh boy, that's too much work for me.....
 

[Jim Kibler]

Dennis describes the procedure well.  Thanks.  All the holes in the wood are drilled on both kits.  On the new kit the trigger plate will be drilled and tapped for the tang bolt.  The tang will be fully shaped and drilled / countersunk for the tang bolt. 

Thanks!
Jim

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

The holes for the two tang screws are already drilled through the wood.  In order to get the holes (countersunk) in the tang to align with the holes through the stock, I had to move the barrel back just a little in the channel.  When checking that fit, be sure to stand the rifle on it's muzzle so that the tang can be lifted free of the inlet without jamming, and tearing out wood.  Do not try to pry the tang out or you'll ruin Jim's tight inletting.  I found that standing the rifle vertically helped the tang come free of its inlet.
Once you have the barrel bedded properly, and the holes aligned, you can pass a drill bit through the stock to mark the trigger plate.  Then remove the plate, centre punch the marks you made, and drill with a tap drill.  The rest is routine..

[varsity07840]

Tang bolts went in perfectly. Thanks for the feedback from Jim, et al.