Lock too far ahead/barrel too far back.

[somehippy]

Hi folks,

Got started on 24 ga fowler, all was going rather well, got blank roughed out, barrel in, standing breech in, went to begin in letting the lock.... Being worried about getting the vent ahead of the breech plug so I wouldn't have to notch it to facilitate the vent I wound up with my lock too far back, I know I should have quit after the bolster, but for some reason I thought I just might have enough room to squeeze my lock bolt in.  Long story short I don't.  I researched my troubles before posting, found this thread pretty much describing the issue, http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=15460.0.  I'd rather not patch the wood.  So I've narrowed my options to 1) somehow tapping the side of the standing breech (not much room there 3/16" maybe) possible welding to the back of it to install a screw from the lock side behind the cock.  2) solder a nut or peice of metal to the bridle to screw onto from the off side.  3) (my favorite) use the top bridle hole for the lock bolt as well.

#1 seems a bit finicky, #2 seems more finicky #3 is pretty simple, clean and sturdy, trouble is finding a 6-40 screw long enough or a tap to rethread a regular lock bolt with a step down.  Nobody local sells either.  I could hack my way along through the first two options but the third is most appealing. 

I know I should have done a better job laying things out first and foremost and I also know I should invest in some quality taps and dies.      However I thought I'd post my troubles on here to get some other opinions and or ideas.  I don't want to butcher what I got so far but I'm also too impatient to wait for a 6-40 tap (can't find suitable 6-40 screw source).

One last idea I just thought up... Maybe drill out a lock bolt to slide in and solder my bridle screw with the head chopped off and perhaps a 1/16" cross pin to hold it in, thus leaving me with a stepped lock bolt. 

One more... Drill out and tap bridle hole to 8-32, assuming there is enough meat on the bridle.

I dunno, but I'm sure some of you smart fellers do.  These kinda things are frustrating, but are quite educational lol.  I know I'll be alot more careful where I put my next lock...

Thanks in advance

[smylee grouch]

A picture of the area would help a lot.

[somehippy]

I'll try to get some up tomorrow, my phone won't let me upload them for some reason (gotta email myself and use the computer at work).  More or less the rear of my bolster is too far ahead to catch a lock bolt.

[Black Hand]

Two choices - move the barrel back or the lock forwards.
Of the two, the first seems to be the better solution.

[54ball]

 Mnnmmm.

 With no photos I'm just shooting blind. If this is a 18th Century build even with a Siler type lock you could make a Early 3 screw sideplate and use 2 lock bolts, at the tail and at the nose of the lock. The Center bolt of the side plate could be a screw or even a dummy bolt head soldered to the sideplate.

[Dave B]

Personaly I would be inclined to run the Lock screw into the standing breach. If too narrow dove tail in a D section of mild steel. Just silver solder it in place then drill and tap for the lock retaining screw. I have seen original fowlers done in this manor.

[somehippy]

Dang! Just what I was looking for! Thanks so much! Knew there was an easier way, great diagram as well.

[Pukka Bundook]

Can't you just put the rear sidenail Behind the bolster, or is the tumbler in the way?  as already said, pics would help.  :-)

[somehippy]

Not much space as the tumbler uses a stirrup link, that was my first thought though. I shoulda mentioned it was a bailes lock, one not using a stirrup would have lots of room.  Dave's idea seems good and solid, can still use an 8-32 or 10-32 bolt.  I kinda think the lack of side plate will look kinda neat, just wood. 

[Bigmon]

a larger lock??
A smaller loack?
I really don't understand the problem?
I thinl I would/
If it solved the problem and worked, just move the barrel back?
Patch the wood.  I have seen plenty with patches, none that the lock attached that away?
Just start over?

[B.Habermehl]

I second Daves idea. If you fit the dove tail to a barely sliding fit you could use normal solder if you don't have enough torch for silver solder. BJH

[somehippy]

Dave's trick worked like a charm, made me a lil tab yesterday, only needed a little more meat to get a hole tapped in the standing breech.  Dovetailed and sealed er up with low temp silver solder, plenty solid now.  Was a bit fidgety filing out the little tab, but it turned out great.  Thank you all for the replies.