Author Topic: Scrimshawing turtle shell  (Read 2037 times)

Offline Clear Spring Armory

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Scrimshawing turtle shell
« on: January 30, 2018, 09:07:05 AM »
I was skimming through Pinterest the other day and came across a scrimshawed snapping turtle shell. No link or description, but it looked like the dark outer layer was peeled away and Scrimshaw was done on the lighter underlayer. Anyone ever tried this? Any historical examples? I'd post the picture, but I've seen copyright infringement brought up on other posts and I'm not sure how that works.

Online Levy

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Re: Scrimshawing turtle shell
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2018, 09:41:52 PM »
I started to engrave a turtle shell once.  After the outside layer of scale peeled off, it was light colored underneath, but not smooth enough to engrave.  I filed each individual section and sanded it smooth.  I attempted to engrave one panel and wasn't happy with it and never completed it.  It was pretty hard.  I think it would make an interesting conversation piece though.  A hunting companion of mine filled a small turtle shell with a leather bag and attached a metal clip to the shell to make a bullet holder.  James Levy   
James Levy

Offline FDR

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Re: Scrimshawing turtle shell
« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2018, 10:20:25 PM »
Its very common to find a Box Turtle shell made into a Turkey call. Just add slate into the open bottom.

Fred

Offline Clear Spring Armory

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Re: Scrimshawing turtle shell
« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2018, 01:33:01 AM »
I've only ever scrimshawed cow horn, but figured bone and other porous material would have to be polished and possibly oiled first. Seems like the ink or other colorants would seep into the pores.The one on Pinterest I seen looked highly polished. What didn't you like about yours?

Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Scrimshawing turtle shell
« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2018, 06:07:46 PM »
If you’re going to scrimshaw porous material you need to use a filling agent for the material you are working on, or a colorant that doesn’t penetrate much. Dipping the bone, or antler, in hot wax, and then driving it into the material with a heat gun works. You  have to Scotchbrite the heck out of it afterwards, and fill the etching with unthinned artist acrylic paint, and then Scotchbrite it again. Sometimes just unthinned acrylic paint works without bleeding into the surrounding material. Every application is different.

  Hungry Horse

Online Levy

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Re: Scrimshawing turtle shell
« Reply #5 on: February 01, 2018, 07:11:45 AM »
I found the turtle shell to be too hard for my abilities and if the whole shell wasn't going to look any better than the first panel, then it wasn't worth the effort.  I was used to cow horns which were easier to work (for me).  Maybe I'll try and finish it one day.  James Levy
James Levy