Inlet fix

[Mauser06]

I was inletting my tang this evening and blew a chip out. Figure it was a combination of it being a bit too snug and the tang levering there as it went in and out as I worked...


I recovered the chip but it's small and it's pretty discolored from my transfer color.


Here are some pics. 














The barrel is bottomed out in the channel at this point so the rest will be taken down with the file.

The tang is full thickness. I didn't reduce it's thickness.


I'm not sure on the best remedy.

Was thinking of reducing the tang thickness to below the chip level and level off the wood and blend it back in.  But figured I'd ask before I did anything. 


(I know the tang shape isn't perfect...it fought with me and that was the best I could do. First time I shaped a tang and learned from it and I can live with it..).

[PPatch]

Your idea is a good one, file then glue your chip back in, then blend everything. Good save on recovering that chip, otherwise the repair would be more complicated.

Does the tang require a lot of effort to pull free of the wood when you lift it out? If so before you do the repair do some wall scraping on the inside of the inlet. In other words loosen it up so that the tang still has a nice fit but lifts immediately out with very little resistance, when removed. I do all inlets this way, tang, trigger plates, etc. I do not want to have to use force to pull those out of their inlets, of course I do want them to fit well in the inlet without gaps. It is a close thing, to get the inlet just right so the part is easy lifting with no "tug."

Be sure your glue is completely dry before working the area.

dave

dave

[Eric Krewson]

I would just glue the chip back in. If I have the chips I put a little glue on them, place them back where they came out of and pound the chip very lightly with a small leather hammer to make sure the chip is tightly fitted. The fit will be so perfect it won't show.

Here is one I did, second build; I had my barrel in the stock but not pinned, I had the gun on a narrow table I use for bow glue-ups. I backed into the gun and knocked it off the table, when it hit the concrete the barrel parted company with the stock. As the tang left the stock it chipped out a dime sized chip on one side of the tang and a smaller chip out of the other side, the chips were scattered across the floor. I found the surface chips with a thorough search on my hands and knees but some were missing from inside the inlet.

I filled the missing chip area below the wood surface with superglue and sawdust and repositioned the surface chips with a little glue and tapped them with my leather hammer. I use superglue because the wood was walnut and wouldn't be stained so any lines wouldn't show.

Here is the end result; the worst chipped out place is on the side facing the camera, you can see a slight glue line on the other side of the tang. The chip out was even with and slightly forward of the tang screw.



 

[T*O*F]

Forget about the chip.  Your breechplug is overclocked.  Back it off so it lines up with the barrel.  That will lower the left side of the tang.  Drawfile the whole works until you get everything level, including getting rid of the chipped out area.  You've got plenty of metal and wood to accomplish it.

[rich pierce]

Good observation.  Also it’s important to remember these chubby precarved stocks are in no way at final dimension.  Tons of extra wood on there.

[Mauser06]

Thanx guys! 


The breech plug actually isn't completely seated. It's 1 flat shy...


Looking at the pics, I see what you mean.  I will have to check it but I think that's just the barrel not Being in just right. When I tap on it, it likes to bounce around a bit.

[T*O*F]

I will have to check it but I think that's just the barrel not Being in just right.

Then put it in right and quit fooling around.  Tighten the breechplug to its final position, put the barrel in right, and check your inletting.  You should have a clamp holding the barrel and tang down because that's where it will sit after you install the tang screw and tighten it.

[Mauser06]

PPatch, it is pretty snug...which I think factored into the chip. Just so focused on getting it nice and tight....I think I should relieve it a smidge more before the sides blow out too lol. 



The chip isn't the grand canyon.  I'm not sure exactly how much will show if I left it and just shaped it down. The stock is the most slended precarve I've ever seen. Maybe 1/8" of "fat to scrape off most areas it looks like to my eyes...right now.  Haven't measured the wrist to see exact measurements yet.


TOF, that makes sense..I probably should had it breeched and leave it alone till it's time to put the touch hole in.


Still learning...so far, it's going better than the first.....this is my 2nd.

[Mauser06]

I learned a long while ago that if you post anything here, you gotta be able to take what comes of it.


That's why I stick around and continue to post.


If everyone said "oh that looks great" I'd never learn to do things properly and my work wouldn't get any better.  I'm here to learn...like I said, it's my 2nd build.  I am taking my time. I'm trying my best to do a good job and produce a nice clean rifle. I don't expect it to be a master piece. But I gotta learn.

[Dale Halterman]

In order to remove the barrel from the stock, I turn the stock and barrel upside down and grasp it with both hands and whack the butt stock on the seat of my upholstered shop stool. The barrel pops right out in my hands.

Another method which I have not tried is to drill a hole from the bottom of the barrel channel out the bottom of the stock where it will be covered by the trigger guard. To remove the barrel, inset a drift in the hole from the bottom and whack in with a hammer.

I use the first method since it is easier to find my stool than a drift in my messy shop.

Either method should avoid chipping out around the tang.

Dale H

[Mauser06]

Thanx Dale!   That makes great sense....

[rich pierce]

During inletting of a barrel I often solder a cross bar to the top barrel flat near the breech.  Helps to lift it out and set it back in squarely.

[Majorjoel]

I have found that using a steel range rod with the proper sized bore jag installed and a muzzle protector in place, a couple of light taps on the rod handle and up pops the barrel. 

[Mauser06]

Those little tricks are awesome!  I appreciate them as always! 



I looked it over....I think I'm going to order a new breech plug...try to do a better job shaping it and leave it slightly larger to cover my goofs...

More time and work...but I'd know my chip and small gap are gone...provided I don't make them again.  Lol.

[Nordnecker]

Just forge it bigger, wider, longer.

[EC121]

File some draft(taper) on the sides of the tang.  It doesn't need to be a press fit.  That just puts pressure on the wood.  You need a little room for the finish to get in around the tang anyway. 

[little joe]

Do as Nordnecker suggested or weld a little metal on and refinish. Avoid putting a new plug in if you can.

[Joe S.]

Just a question here,did you check to see how thick your web is between the ram rod hole and barrel channel is?if you have some to spare can you set the barrel, tang a whisker more into the stock?glue your chip in place.This along with filing down the tang,wrist area should make the whole deal go away.I kinda had the same thing happen,not quite as deep an oops but still as a first time builder thought it was more than it was.Like other posters said pre carves have a lot of extra wood on them,including the web in my case,it will also help make for a slender girl in the end.Not sure how far along you are but just a thought,good luck.

[moleeyes36]

File some draft(taper) on the sides of the tang.  It doesn't need to be a press fit.  That just puts pressure on the wood.  You need a little room for the finish to get in around the tang anyway.

2X on that advice.  If it fits so tight now that it sticks when the tang is removed when the the wood swells after the finish is applied, you're going to have a real problem.  EC121's advice about a draft applies to anything you are trying to inlet (lock plates, side plates, inlays, etc.).  I learned that the hard way years ago.  You are on the right track by asking questions and listening to the answers.  Many don't do that and learn to regret it.  Hang in there.

Mole Eyes

[Mauser06]

There's actually a very healthy draft on it....learned that trick halfway through the first build..lol.


I don't have a welder or a forge....not sure I can beat it cold and move it much? 



I haven't drilled a hole in the barrel channel, but the web at the muzzle end isnt overly thick. 3/16" or maybe 1/4".


From what I was told, Mark Wheland did this stock...it's the most refined precarve I've seen. There's maybe 1/8" of "fat" to scrape off the gun.

I can lay the stock on Eric von Aschwege's Beck print and it's a dang near match. That's why I'm afraid to sink the tang a bit more or bend it down a little more..I feel like my inexperience will cause me to dig a bigger hole and mess up the shape of the wrist. 

I thought a new plug would be the fix that would be best for me in this case.


I will definitely relieve the mortise a hair more as well regardless of how I fix it...I was tunnel visioned into trying to make it as tight and clean as possible...

[Bill Raby]

I have found that using a steel range rod with the proper sized bore jag installed and a muzzle protector in place, a couple of light taps on the rod handle and up pops the barrel.

I use a wooden dowel the same way.