High web

[Mauser06]

Working on my current build.  A precarve.


Yesterday I drilled a 1/16" hole at the front end of the lock to measure the web and make sure it was where it started out...

It is. But it's high on the lock mortise. 





The web is where it's written...



My thought is to sneak a 6-32 bolt through the web and let the frizzen spring hide it. 

It's either that or a fake bolt in the side plate.


I don't think it effects anything. Other than the bolt isn't centered on the plate..but it's pretty much hidden anyways... everything else is looking good. Trigger is in and functional..that was my biggest worry as my last build had the trigger mortise done.

Hopefully the buttplate goes better than the last.


As usual, checking with you guys before I do anything.  Really wanna get this one "right".

[Justin Urbantas]

I think it would be absolutely fine as it is. If you're concerned with how it looks you could probably drill just short of all the way through and tap the blind hole.

[Mauser06]

Thanx Justin.  I thought all was well..other than to the eye it'll clearly be off vertical center...but it's mostly hidden anyways. 


Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything before I get the drill out.  Lol.   

[Justin Urbantas]

sometimes it will be off when you try to get the top of the pan level with the barrel flats. I had a heck of a challenge with a Hawken I just finished. The barrel was inlet wrong on a machine somehow, and I ended up with a 1/8" web. My forward lock bolt was really high

[smart dog]

Hi,
There is no problem to fix here.  Just drill the hole for a regular sized bolt so it is centered on the lock plate.  It will break through the bottom of the web and into the ramrod hole a little bit.  No worries, this is actually an advantage.  Taper your ramrod slightly so it fits under the bolt and if the bolt puts a little pressure on it, so much the better. The tapered rod will prevent humidity from swelling the wood and jamming the rod but the bolt will keep it from sliding forward with every shot. Many of my guns are set up like that.

dave

[Mauser06]

Thanx guys!   

I have read up on tapering rods, notching bolts etc if I end up in the channel. The swelling makes sense. Didn't really consider it. No finish in the ramrod hole makes it somewhat prone to it too I would imagine. 

[Mark Elliott]

I would just use an 8-32 bolt and drill it a little high on the lock plate.   That was done on plenty of original rifles and I do it most of the time.  Your web is where it is supposed to be.   Most of my lock bolts intrude into the ramrod hole some.   I always taper my ramrods.   So, that gives me a little clearance.   If I need more,  I file a notch in the lock bolt.    If you locate your web before your inlet your lock, you can tilt the lock up a little at the front to help with bolt placement.   

[Mauser06]

Thank Mark! 


This precarve came with the mortise cut already so i didn't have much option other than locate the web and build the rifle. 



Hopefully I don't get to annoy you guys!  I have studied for over a year to learn to build. I have built 1 other precarve a year and a half ago...I am taking my time and trying to get this one done right.  The precarve from Mark Wheland was a great head start. Seems he did a great job. Everything is lining up right and the architecture is great. I've compared it to lots of Beck plans and measurements and I basically have 3/32-" 1/8" of "fat" to scrape off after everything is done.


Hoping to have it done by mid April at the latest so I can shoot some turkeys in the face with it this season...but, I'm not going to rush it.

[Bill Raby]

Forget about April. Take your time and do everything right. Just let it take as long as it is going to take. Would you rather have a hurry up gun in April or the the best gun that you are capable of building in October?

[Mauser06]

That's what I mean...I'm not going to rush it. If it's done, great!  If not, maybe next spring.

I do want it to turn out good. That's the goal. I have another turkey flinter.


If I keep up the pace, I do believe it will be done. 

[Eric Krewson]

Looks good to me.

Here is a high web, this is a precarve but I did the lock inletting. I pointed the tail of the lock down the wrist a little and got the web too high for a proper front bolt. Fortunately it is a Tn gun so I got away with one lock bolt.

[smallpatch]

Eric,
Still plenty of room for a front bolt.

[smart dog]

Hi Eric,
I really like the fact that you almost always post a photo to reinforce your point or enhance your post when needed.  Good on you Eric.

dave

[Black Hand]

No finish in the ramrod hole makes it somewhat prone to it too I would imagine.

No one told me I shouldn't put finish inside the rammer hole. I guess I've been doing it wrong all this time....

[Eric Krewson]

I positioned the lock so because I wanted the pan to be parallel to a barrel flat instead of tilted.

I got my lock inlet so tight there was no need for a front lock bolt, Well, too tight, I cracked the lock mortise pulling the "tight" fitting lock.



I soaked the crack with Zap-A-Gap but got lucky, when I shaped the lock panels the crack disappeared, it was only on the surface.

 

[Dave R]

#8-32 bolt will work however consider a #6-32 for the forward bolt and a #8-32 tpi for the rear and you won't get them mixed up especially if the front bolt is shorter and 2  8-32 screws are used and they get reversed and the longer one contacts the frizzen sear spring.

[flinchrocket]

With a swamped barrel the front bolt will almost always be shorter than the back. 6-32 is plenty big for the front. People seem to want to torque them down like the heads on a 454 Chevy and they don't need to be.

[Waksupi]

I believe it was Dan Pharris that had a good solution when this came up before.
Get a steel rod long enough to reach the bottom, and put the slightest bend in it. Upset a tooth on one edge of the rod, and use it as a scraper to cut the hole lower. I've done this a couple times, and it worked well.
Tapering the ramrod helps, as does making a cut in the lock bolt to facilitate passage. This can be done just on one side, that will require the ramrod being removed for bolt removal, or if there is enough clearance, chuck the bolt up in the drill press, and make a divot completely around the bolt waist. Ramrod still needs removed to take out the bolt, but easier to index the bolt back into position.