I picked up a Kibler kit at a big discount on the classified here, when it arrived I noticed it had a small crack in the edge of the forearm, just where one would be if someone tried to pry the barrel out of the stock, it was an easy fix. To say the barrel was in tightly would be an understatement. It took a few tries but I did what was mentioned above, barrel side down on my bench and lightly tap, tap, tap upward on the buttstock. It took about 3 or 4 minutes of gently tapping before the barrel decided to move and gradually came out.
The barrel had a lot of milling marks showing so I drawfiled the sides and top flats, sanded to 220 and gave the barrel a test fit in the stock, a perfect fit, not too tight, not too loose, in and out easily.
I have a TOW Issac Haines kit that has an extremely tight barrel fit as well. I haven't started the kit but will get my drawfile out first thing when I do start on it.
Another thing; You will need to sand your barrel to 220 for browning or graying, you don't need to go any finer on your sand paper. 220 gives you the best surface for the browning to "take" on unless you are a master at drawfiling and can get the kind of finish you need by simply using a file, I never could.
First rifle, lousy build job and 400 git sanding of the lock and barrel, crummy browning.
Third rifle, OK build, 220 grit lock and barrel sanding, great browning job.