Scratch stocks

[ltdann]

Can anyone describe the correct way to use a scratch stock?  I can make the profiles easily enough, as well as the holder, but the actual technique kinda escapes me.

I end up lines that aren't straight, different depths etc....

[Maineshops]

I’m guessing you are pressing to hard initially. Use very light pressure and concentrate on your reference plane. Dan

[Ky-Flinter]

Ditto what Dan said.  If you need more info, so a search on the words "scratch stock video" without the quotation marks.  The first 3 results have good info on making and using scratch stocks.

The scratch stock needs a smooth uniform surface to ride on, like the edges of the ramrod channel for example, and you need to keep the scratch stock in constant contact with that surface.  Also, you need to keep the scratch stock at the same angle, in relation to the gun stock, through the whole length of the cut.  Mine seems to cut better at about a 70 degree lean toward the direction of the cut.  Oh, try to cut with the grain.  Going against can cause chatter.

-Ron

[ltdann]

How close to the final profile do you need to be before you move to the scratch stock?

[elkhorne]

Ron,
In the process of making a couple of experimental scratch stocks. I used the plan in JHAT vol 2 but made one with a slot for .032 scraper blade stock and another, per the JHAT instructions, with a O1 1/16" X 1" blade. Any suggestions on blade source or width? Also if possible, could you show us a demo photo of how you use the scratch stock at 70 degrees to the forearm. Guess some of us are visual versus words! Lol. Thanks.
elkhorne

[Mark Elliott]

How close to the final profile do you need to be before you move to the scratch stock?

Very close and it is still a lot of work.    Because the scratch stock blade must be parallel to the curl, you end up with a lot of ripple in the forearm.   It is one way you know it was cut with a scratch stock.   

[ltdann]

How close to the final profile do you need to be before you move to the scratch stock?

Very close and it is still a lot of work.    Because the scratch stock blade must be parallel to the curl, you end up with a lot of ripple in the forearm.   It is one way you know it was cut with a scratch stock.   

Thanks for that ..... and thanks for publishing your plans on your website.   I'll be trying your scratch stock profile from your latest build in the future.  The fine details made by a scratch stock seems like magic to me and I can't think of any other way to achieve the same result.

I'll be practicing on some scrap for awhile before I go live.

Dan

[Ky-Flinter]

Elkhorne,

I made several blades from a salvaged computer case.  Don't remember the thickness, pretty thin.  .032 sounds about right.  1/16 seems like overkill. 

In use?  In the photo below, envision tipping the top of the tool toward you just a little, hold that angle and pull the tool toward you.



Hope this helps.

-Ron

[elkhorne]

Ron,
That does help. Thanks. You mentioned searching for videos using "scratch stock videos," were you searching on YouTube? Sorry to be such a bother but really want to get this technique down like Dan said. Lots of examples of the tool holder on line but many relate to cutting a simple bead on a board for a furniture application. Thanks for the help. This might be a great place for a tutorial by someone that has successfully mastered this useful technique.
elkhorne

[Ky-Flinter]

Elkhorne,

No problem.  I was using the Search function here on ALR.  Scroll up and look for the horizontal bar that has links for Home, Help, Search and others.

-Ron