Virginia Rifle

[vanu]

The finish is actually raw linseed oil and asphaltum. Raw doesn't harden as does boiled, thereby allowing for multiple coats to be applied over time. Also, the mixture needs to be warmed before application by hand. It takes several coats and a few months to achieve desired results but certainly worth the effort! Best is to continue to rub the stock with bare hands between applications, seems to impart a glow the more you handle it. This is a classic example of being patient, the first coat is deceiving, just stay with it and the results will be a very traditional look, seems to work exceptionally well on highly figured wood.

Bruce

[elk killer]

I have raw linseed, where do you get asphaltum?

[vanu]

I order it on-line: Senefelder's Liquid Asphaltum, manufactured by Graphic Chemical and Ink Co. 728 N. Yale Ave. PO Box 27, Villa Park, Illinois 60181.

Wallace showed me this technique decades ago and he has certain % mixtures, but for work i do , I've started with 1/5  asphaltum/raw linseed then test on various woods until i get the 1st coat tone i like (usually pretty heavy on the asphaltum- as i like the dark tone). Ive taken a cue from Wallace, he keeps his in an old glue pot, my concoction stays in an old damaged canton porcelain mug that i cover with a pine lid (i carved a recessed ring that fits over the mug rim) to keep it from gumming up too severely. when i want yo use it, i just warm it on an old hot plate out in the shop until smooth, then apply with fingers. Also, I have used non-polymer stains (e.g. water or alcohol based stain) as a color base, then apply oil/asphaltum method with really nice results.

Once you get the color you like, rub with boiled linseed oil to harden the finish, just remember, this procedure will prevent any additional penetration of new applications of asphaltum, that said however,  the color will continue to darken a bit over the years.

***not sure I'd use this method for conservation of an antique as it's a bit difficult to control for blending color/patina etc.; but on contemporary projects its a pretty cool option***

Bruce

[elk killer]

Thanks so much for the info, I'm going to give it a try
will be fun learning something new

[vanu]

Elk Killer,

You bet, hope it works for you!!

One thought... you might want to try this method on a tomahawk stick or knife handle, I've done both with very pleasing results, even got a thumbs-up from Wallace on a project we worked together!

Bruce

[elk killer]

I have plenty of scrap pieces of curly maple to practice on, if I get what I want
I'll use it on a long long barreled squirrel pistol that has a great piece of curly
maple, I really like that color

Thanks for taking the time to explain it
Mark

[vanu]

Mark,

That sounds like an excellent project, working this type of finish will be a great way to make a unique arm look even more personal.

Frankly, one of the elements i like about this finish that Wallace developed is it gets better the more you handle it. We've all used linseed oil, but the addition of asphaltum and the tonal affects it imparts is remarkable...might take a couple of years, but in this art-form, time is very much a part of what we are about.

Enjoy the process!

Bruce

[will payne]

Tell Wallace he is master gun smith.

[flinchrocket]

I have looked at this gun several times in the past and just now noticed the beavertails on the lock moulding. I wonder if this is the way that Phillip Sheetz carved his beavertails?

[Craig Wilcox]

Vanu, I have several maple pieces that have been drying, waiting for me to make a few canes for myself.  I do believe that I will be using your's and Wallace's mix to color and finish them.

I do have one walking stick that I made from red maple - Acer rubrum - way back in 1979.  Lightweight walking stick, but hard and tough!  Tried a couple times to checker the grip, but my tools just barely scratch it.

If it looks as good as that rifle, I will then use the mix on this Lehigh Iam trying to mKW.

many thanks!