Yeah for Taylor's Method for Attaching a Barrel Rib

[smart dog]

Hi,
I just finished using Taylor Sapergia's method for attaching an under rib on a late flint English rifle I am building for a friend.  I previously attached the rib temporarily with very low temp solder just to fit it and drill the ramrod hole. Then I cleaned it up and used Taylor's staking method to permanently attach the rib.  It worked beautifully.  I am going to drill a hole through the rib for a forward sling swivel so I included 2 stakes on either side of the swivel hole.  The sling will break long before the attachment fails.  Well done Taylor!

dave

[Billy Mike]

Would you have a link?

[Gun_Nut_73]

Is this the right one?

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=29600.0

[PPatch]

Would you have a link?

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=37886.0

Link to Taylor's Hawken tutorial (Titled "Hawken Stuff") - the rib staking bit is on page 3. Basically you use regualr nail's that you stake into the barrel, put your rib in place and rivet it to the barrel.







Pretty cool technique.

dave

[Billy Mike]

Thanks to Taylor for doing that and thanks to you gentlemen for helping me out.

[mountainman70]

I am gonna do this method on the next half stock that needs a rib. Way better than drillin and breaking off small taps. I did some experimenting on a scrap of barrel, and really like it. Just doesn't allow for rib removal,why would I want to? Have a goodun, Dave

[FALout]

I did it this way also, it works very well.  To me, soldering is too much clean up and screwing it doesn’t seem historically correct and too easy to mess up a barrel by drilling too deep or breaking a tap.

[Pukka Bundook]

I've only soldered ribs in place, but that's because I've only been repairing /re-laying old ribs on sporting guns, and these ribs are hollow and the barrels thin!

If I do a modern squared barrel, I'll try the riveting as well as solder.   

[snrub47]

Used this method on a my last build, way better than solder or using screws......

[mountainman70]

I have a antique  half stock barrel complete with rib and pipes,30 cal 1"x 35" weighs 6 lbs. The original u rib is attached with small,probly 440 screws. Believe it or not, with a bit of wd 40 and careful work with new screwdriver tip, they came right out.
I have installed probably 10 underribs with screws,,it is tedious work fo sho. Dave

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Thanks for the nice note Dave.  Installing a rib with rivets is so much faster and easier than fluxing, soldering and cleaning up a soldered rib/barrel.  I have also installed a lot of solid ribs to Hawken rifles using Brownell's 6 x 48 scope mounting screws. All of the nearly 200 rifles that came out of Robinson's shop in the late seventies early eighties were attached that way, and are still holding up well to this day.  But riveting is faster and every bit as strong.  It does require a barrel wall sufficient thickness to accommodate the staking process without dimpling the bore.
With a riveted hollow rib, I plug the muzzle end with solder, but leave the aft' end open to breathe.

[smylee grouch]

Taylor, thanks for noting than about leaving the back of the rib open, I always wondered about that and the chance of rust forming  in that area that we can't see after the rib is attached and we clean our guns with water.

[mikeyfirelock]

I have used this method on 2 rifles and it works quite well.    I have a half stock  .30 cal (approx) squirrel gun built in the late 1800’s in Kentucky which used this exact same method.   The rib is still quite securely attached. M

[WKevinD]

I have used this method successfully as well. I have a word of caution...make sure when staking your posts that they have remained perfectly vertical or fitting the rib back on over the posts will be a bit challenging.

Kevin