Stock finishing

[Gary Rad]

Hi, I am just about ready to finish my first stock it is curly maple. What does everyone like to use for a stain and also for a finish.

Please let me know what you think.

Thanks, Gary

[smallpatch]

Ferric Nitrate for stain,
Chambers oil for finish.

[Mauser06]

In the finishing process now....











That's 2 coats of tannic acid and 2 coats of iron nitrate. Finish is Chamber's. I think that was after 2-3 coats of finish so not quite done...2nd gun I've done with it and really like it...get an array of colors that are pleasing and seemingly matches many original rifles. The finish adds depth and clarity and the stock ends up nearly holographic. Can rub out the stain to lighten it to whatever you like...

[Mike Brooks]

My stain and finish is so secret not even I know what it is.

[moleeyes36]

Ferric Nitrate for stain,
Chambers oil for finish.

Second both the Ferric Nitrate and the Chambers Traditional Oil Finish.

Mole Eyes

[Pukka Bundook]

Mike,

LOL!

I like nitric as well, then raw linseed cut with turpentine.  Very mellow when done.

[L. Akers]

I have never liked the idea of using acid to stain a stock--it softens those crisp edges I worked so hard to establish.  I liberally apply Kline's (Homer Dangler's) dark brown stain let it dry and rub it out until I begin to see yellow highlights begin to show.  I then apply maple LMF Antique Wood Stain.  It simulates a nitric acid stain in color very well.  I finish with many very thin coats of tung oil well rubbed in.

[PPatch]

Hi, I am just about ready to finish my first stock it is curly maple. What does everyone like to use for a stain and also for a finish.

Please let me know what you think.

Thanks, Gary

Hello Gary, Welcome to ALR.

Traditionally Aqua Fortis (AQ) was used to stain stocks. According to the stock in front of you the AQ will turn it a dark brown, a reddish brown or somewhere lighter. Each stock reacts differently due to where it grew and what minerals the tree sucked up while growing. AQ reacts with the iron in a stock, accentuates the figure and is generally pleasing to the eye. There is a chemical known as Ferric Nitrate (FN) that is an exact substitute for AQ and used by many. It comes in crystal form from the Science Company, you mix it with either water or drugstore alcohol according to the strength you want, usually  by volume at 1:3 or 1:5 ratio. Test in the barrel channel before using. The advantage of FN is the lack of acid and having to neutralize after applying it. Once it is applied in liquid form it is heated to obtain the reaction (coloring the stock).

Also, other stains are often used to alter the look of the stock after an AQ application, stains from the Laurel Mountain Forge company (LMF) are often seen. Currently I am using LMF's Nut Brown only to stain a stock, the tests I did with FN caused this particular stock to just go a deep muddy brown which I didn't like so I went with with the LMF stain only. The combinations for staining stocks are many, testing before committing to doing a whole stock should always occur.

There is no one magic formula, and as you will learn from the responses you receive everyone does their staining and finishing somewhat differently.

Again, welcome - and good luck with your project. Suggestion: do a search on ALR using the term "Stock Finishing" and you'll come up with pages and pages on the subject.

dave

[Mr. Bubbles]

Do you have some scrap from your blank you can experiment on?  Every piece of wood is a little different, and takes the stain differently.  For this current build I tried about 20 different stain and neutralizing techniques and combinations, and 3 or 4 different varnishes before I settled on what I'm actually using.

[J. Talbert]

My most recent is stained with Aqua Fortis with a coat of LMF Nut brown over top of it.
The aqua fortis alone left the stock pretty muddy (the picture doesn't accurately show it because it was taken before the heat was applied), but I was still pleased with the final look.








Jeff