We'll call this "Haversack Help and Hacks"

[Hessian]

I have haversack I picked up many moons ago from a fella in the Ky/Cinncinatti area.If I recall correctly, I paid about $125 for it.  I have carried this thing for over 20 years. It's been repaired numerous times and has patches on top of patches! It's about 13-14 inches wide and 15-16 deep. Made of linen/hemp or something like that. Seams/edges are banded/taped with leather. Walnut dyed, seams sewn with linen thread. leather strap with a forged buckle and pewter buttons. I've been pressed to sell or trade it many times. It just has that "look!"

I'm thinking of disassembling it to use as a pattern to make another like it. (Winter project.)
You guys always have all the answers so I figured I'd ask the collective brain.
What should I use to recreate it? I think I have some heavy linen if the wife hasn't used or sold it.
I like the mellow brown I get from walnut dye so I'll probably stick with that for the color. Or maybe indigo would be proper for a change? (Charlestown and all that.)
What would one use to "waterproof" it somewhat? Beeswax and turpentine?
One of my biggest complaints with a "haversack" is the strap pulling loose when heavily loaded. I'm thinking leather reinforcements where the straps are attached?
Any other ideas? Feel free to post up pictures! Just because I not pic savey yet shouldn't stop you guys!
Thanks fellas!
Hessian

[Gun_Nut_73]

Just my opinion:  Take it to a good fabric shop, and try to find a linen of similar weight.  You should also take a look through your local thrift shop tablecloths and blankets, and you just might get lucky.

[Hungry Horse]

 A good seamstress can measure the haversack, and calculate the seam allowance, so you don’t have to take it apart. The straps should have their ends sandwiched between the  body of the bag, and two medium weight leather pieces, glued, and then saddle stitched in place. As for a weatherproof coating, I would use sun thickened linseed oil from the art supply store, powdered pigment ( such as masonry cement tint, artists dry paint pigment, or even chalkline chalk) and some Japan drier. This should be left to dry indoors, in the fall, or winter, since the drying process can cause spontaneous combustion in warm weather, or when exposed to direct sunlight.

  Hungry Horse

[alacran]

A friend sent me an article that appeared in the "Backwoodsman" by Jeffrey T. Olms.  It had a recipe for a basic varnish for both wood and textiles.. Mix equal parts by one third, linseed oil boiled or raw, turpentine, and household ammonia. It is a long process to apply. I did a linen haversack with the formula. I applied about 12 thin coats over the course of a month.  Takes from one to three days for a coat to dry in my environment. First coats dry faster than later ones as it builds up. Left it hanging outside on a  tent pole, at Martins Station.  Was gone for three hours. Had one heck of a toad strangler during that time. To my joy everything inside was dry.
Mr. Holms states that this recipe was confirmed as being apropos for 18th century, by a curator for paints and finishes at Williamsburg, VA.

[Clark Badgett]

Painted cloth was around and quite common, and not just in black or natural. Linoleum was around, but not as we think of it. It was little more than cotton or linen sheeting painted with linseed oil. Used for cloth to protect wood floors, and wise, pragmatic people would use it for other uses.