Author Topic: First time build from a plank  (Read 2189 times)

Offline yellowhousejake

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First time build from a plank
« on: September 02, 2018, 06:34:26 PM »
This is a story of my experience as a first time builder of a muzzleloader from a plank. While I have done a good bit of stock work, repair, and bluing on lever actions, revolvers, even a Martini action, I had never attempted a muzzle loader from anything other than a kit. I originally started writing this to share with some distant friends as a way to let them know what I was up to. When I neared completion, my wife suggested I post it for other first time builders to read. I hope that this build along will prove useful to others.

A bit of background is in order.

When I was fifteen, the only thing in the world I wanted was a Jeremiah Johnson rifle. I had seen a CVA mountain rifle kit in the store and told my parents I wanted that for Christmas, or nothing. The kit was affordable, looked easy enough to a kid, and my parents just might think it safe if they believed I would never finish it. I got it, I finished it, I shot the snot out of it over the next several decades.

That rifle became my “try gun”. Try this finish, try that stain, try a new browning solution. I tried everything on it, including lock tuning. Over the years it began to show it’s age and the abuse it had taken. At one time, the barrel had finally fallen victim to thousands of rounds fired and a teenage cleaning regimen. I had replaced it with the only thing I could afford, a free and used CVA Hawken barrel. The stock was shortened and the “new” barrel installed. Ready for more abuse. I shot that barrel a lot too.

After several years of sitting in the corner, after my interests changed to other shooting disciplines, I began to wax nostalgic about that old rifle every time I looked at it. I had been wanting to build a new LRML rifle for some time as I have a good Bauska fast twist barrel, a Roller lock, and I used to have the skills to do it. It had been a long time since I had pushed a chisel through wood and I decided I could refresh that old CVA and regain my building skills. The rifle has many good memories and I wanted to not only keep it, but shoot it again.

While I hope that reading all of my experiences may prove worthwhile to others, there are some things worth pointing out before we begin. Important lessons I have learned on this project.

  • I know my way around both soft and hard walnut, but curly maple proved to be a far different wood to work with. If your tools are sharp enough, hone them again. There is no such thing as too sharp when working with curly maple.
  • You need a decent place to work, and good lighting is important. Neither of those things is expensive to do and they can be made possible within any budget.
  • Stocking up a Marlin lever gun is child’s play compared to the complex shapes involved in a American Longrifle. Pay attention to the little things.
  • Look at lots of photos of the rifle style you are trying to build. Search out and study photos from oblique angles and especially those taken using raking light. See, and even handle, originals if possible.
  • When someone tells you to buy a book and read it first. Don’t think, don’t hesitate, buy the book. I bought three ALR recommended books and I will never regret it. They solved many problems before they happened. They are the best tools you will buy. They never rust, they never need sharpening, and they are good for any rifle you build.
  • Contemplate every thing you do carefully before you do it. All the parts of a muzzleloading rifle are placed carefully, if it is a good rifle. The size, position, shape, all matter if you want a balanced and pleasing rifle when you are done. Putting a part where it doesn’t belong will show itself here more than any other style of rifle. When I began laying out my parts, I would step away for a few hours, come back and immediately see something that didn’t look right. When I got everything arranged and the stock profile fit the parts, it “just worked”.
  • Do NOT be afraid to try something you have never done. When I felt unsure of what I was doing, I grabbed a piece of scrap wood or scrap metal and tried it out, solving any problems as I went. When I did not do that, I made mistakes on the rifle. I may fix those mistakes someday, I may just grin at them in 10 years and marvel at what a chucklehead I was. It takes less time to do a practice piece and then do the job right the first time, than it does to fix a mistake later.

So, I have a worn out CVA Mountain Rifle in parts, some reasonable tools (it does not take many to build a rifle), and a desire to preserve a part of my youth. I have each installment as I sent them out saved as PDFs. You may download them below.

http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%201.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%202.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%203.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%204.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%205.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%206.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%207.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%208.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%209.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%2010.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%2011.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%2012.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%2013.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%2014.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%2015.pdf
http://pixelhammer.com/Dan/plainsrifle/installment%2016.pdf

Maybe these will save another first time builder from a mistake, or provide experienced builders with a laugh.  Everybody wins. :)

DAve



« Last Edit: September 03, 2018, 12:24:44 AM by yellowhousejake »

Offline snapper

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2018, 07:19:22 PM »
Dave

you were starting to stress me out with the lock and the stock issues.

For a boiling tank for rust bluing the barrel, I use an aluminium downspout.  I cut what would be the top off, and simply screwed and chalked 90 degree  pieces to it.  Works great and cheap.

Congrats on a fine looking rifle.   I cant wait to see it in person.  Looking forward to a shooting report.  It might have warts, but they are your warts and you can be proud of them.

Really looking forward to your new long range English sporting rifle.

Fleener
My taste are simple:  I am easily satisfied with the best.  Winston Churchill

Offline yellowhousejake

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2018, 06:59:39 PM »
Thanks art! It was a good bit of fun and a needed diversion at home to take my mind off other things. I did jump in the deep end, as I tend to do. I had never worked with curly maple before, or tried color case hardening, or inletting something (not much call for that on other rifles), or pouring a nosecap, or using a varnish finish. They were good learning experiences.

I used to have a steel tank and when I started rust bluing in the 80s I was warned away from tanks other than iron by a old gunsmith. He always said they would leave colors in the blue. Especially aluminum or copper tanks. So, I never tried one from guttering. I have a 12ft piece of 6x6x1/8 squared steel tubing but I have not made a tank from it yet. I figured it would work for bluing by rust or charcoal both.

Of all the warts I have on the rifle, the most aggravating are the inlets for the barrel escutcheons and the patchbox. Round edges on a curved surface. I need to practice because I cannot see how the better builders manage to get a sharp edge, and metal to wood surfaces on the same plane. Like below.



I have wood, I have plenty of brass, and I have this forum to search for help. I will figure it out.

DAve

Offline snapper

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2018, 07:04:27 PM »
I have done around 10 barrels or so in my gutter and I have not seen any sign of other colors.  Not sure how water in a AL tank would act any different than water in a iron tank?  Any chemist out there?

I used to only use distilled water, but quit doing that as well.  Can not see any difference.


fleener
My taste are simple:  I am easily satisfied with the best.  Winston Churchill

Offline T*O*F

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2018, 07:36:57 PM »
Quote
the barrel escutcheons and the patchbox. Round edges on a curved surface.

Dave,
Lay your escutcheon on a block of lead.  Choose a socket that matches the curved surface.  Lay it on the inlay and give it a good whack with a 3 pounder.  With curved escutcheons, the slots have to be filed straight because each slot will be pointing toward the center of the curve and you need your key to go straight across.

Quote
Not sure how water in a AL tank would act any different than water in a iron tank?

I found a stainless, restaurant countertop at the dump and had a local guy bend and weld it into 3 tanks.  I use them with dicropan for boiling and never had a problem.  I think the iron tank warning is only for when you are actually putting the chemicals in your tanks and heating them.
Dave Kanger

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Offline yellowhousejake

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2018, 08:45:30 PM »
Quote
the barrel escutcheons and the patchbox. Round edges on a curved surface.

Dave,
Lay your escutcheon on a block of lead.  Choose a socket that matches the curved surface.  Lay it on the inlay and give it a good whack with a 3 pounder.  With curved escutcheons, the slots have to be filed straight because each slot will be pointing toward the center of the curve and you need your key to go straight across.


Good idea, thank you. I think I need to look at my draft in the piece and angle of the cut when start to stab in the edges. I will practice before next time ;^)

DAve

Offline P.W.Berkuta

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2018, 08:51:28 PM »
I have done around 10 barrels or so in my gutter and I have not seen any sign of other colors.  Not sure how water in a AL tank would act any different than water in a iron tank?  Any chemist out there?

I used to only use distilled water, but quit doing that as well.  Can not see any difference.


fleener
My local Home Depot has steel gutters and that's what I use. I soldered on the end caps and use it on my kitchen stove. I use my tap water also and use Mark Lee Express Blue which I find does a nice job of a blue/black finish ;). I made two different length one for long barrels and one for short barrels.


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Offline yellowhousejake

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2018, 08:53:43 PM »
Well, it shoots. offhand at 25 yards, ALR target, 530 Lee RB, 75 gr Goex, .018 canvas patch, Neatsfoot oil lube. First round went low.





The load is very tight. This is not the same patch material I had years ago. I needed a short starter which I don't like using. I have softer patch material in .022 I have not tried yet. Some experimentation is needed along with sight adjustment. Overall I am happy.

It would not have turned out near this well without the ALR and so many helpful posts. Thank you all.

DAve

Offline yellowhousejake

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2018, 08:59:06 PM »
I have done around 10 barrels or so in my gutter and I have not seen any sign of other colors.  Not sure how water in a AL tank would act any different than water in a iron tank?  Any chemist out there?

I used to only use distilled water, but quit doing that as well.  Can not see any difference.


fleener

I have seen tiny, really tiny, silver flakes when using alum wire to hold parts, But, only on a mirror bright bluing job. It may have been oxides released from the aluminum. I already have steel to make a tank, so I may do that if I decide I do not like the steaming. It did work better this time around.

I have to use distilled water. Even with a whole house string filter and carbon filter in place, my well water will throw a brownish purplish cast to boiled bluing. Steaming though, removes that need.

DAve


Offline PPatch

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2018, 08:59:07 PM »
For a first build you did a fine job.

For rust bluing barrels I use an ordinary 50" length of white gutter bought at Home Depot. The ends capped with the usual end caps. I boiled the barrel and parts in our well water.




dave
« Last Edit: September 03, 2018, 10:18:01 PM by PPatch »
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Offline Craig Wilcox

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #10 on: September 03, 2018, 09:15:11 PM »
Been wondering how to make that tank, Dave, and appreciate you passing along that idea.  Hoping that Lowe's has the same material!
Brownell's black iron tank is only 40" long, and my barrel will not quite make it~  Maybe shorten the barrel?  Nah!  I'll just borrow Dave's home-made tank!

I really do like Brownell's Classic Rust Blue.  But boiling is a requisite for using it.  Goes quickly with the right equipment!  I previously used one of their SS wire brushes for the carding, it does NOT remove bluing!
Craig Wilcox
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Offline snapper

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #11 on: September 03, 2018, 09:29:27 PM »
The company that makes Brownells tanks has tried to give me one, but I need to wait 9 more months.

Fleener
My taste are simple:  I am easily satisfied with the best.  Winston Churchill

Offline WadePatton

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Re: First time build from a plank
« Reply #12 on: September 09, 2018, 04:15:28 PM »
All this talk about tanks.  If you have some sheet SS handy, all you need is Silver 50-56% brazing rod to use your Oxy-Fuel rig to braze it up.  Arc welding (TIG) is not the only process for it.  Provided you can get it all bent to the shape you need-some SS alloys are tougher to work with than others.

Parts of my road bike are SS and that's how lugged SS bicycles are done (also 4130).  Fitment must be tighter with Silver than with Brass for proper capillary action.  Carry on.
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