Vee tool recomendation

[tiswell]

 For those of you that use a vee tool to outline carving or to do incised work, do you have a manufacturer/model/size/angle that you prefer. I just received a made in England parting tool that I am not happy with and what to see what is preferred by the carvers here.

                                                                                                                                    Thanks, Bill Nash

[rich pierce]

I use a v tool less and less but I prefer them to be very small in height and width so I can see what I’m doing without big “ears” in the way.   So I’ve made my own. Take some small drill rod, or an annealed triangular file, file a long v groove in it, then shape the outside to match. Harden, temper, sharpen, put a handle on it. Good to go.

[moleeyes36]

I'm partial to this 16/1 parting tool.  https://www.woodcraft.com/products/pfeil-swiss-made-16-sweep-v-parting-tool-1-mm-full-size?via=573621f469702d06760016cd%2C5763288b69702d20ec000b2e%2C5764107a69702d3ae3000dea

Mole Eyes

[PPatch]

I second Moleyes on the pfeil 16/1 brand and size. Like Rich I use a V tool less often these days as my approach to relief carving has changed.

dave

[tiswell]

Thanks guys! Going to try Rich's DIY method and if that doesn't work I am going in for the Pfiel.

[Eric Kettenburg]

Ramelson sells some great, very small little V-tools that are under $20 and have a longer 'hammer-driven-able' type handle on them, as opposed to the stubby palm handles.  Or you can get them with palm handles too, depending upon how you like to work with them.  They also come exceptionally sharp.  They're not quite as cheap as the old Dem-bart tools that many used to use (and throw away when they dulled) but they're a lot more affordable than pretty much anything else and work perfectly for the Lehigh and Bucks type work.

[TommyG]

I use the Pfiel 16-1 as well.  However I find them to be a bit long with a little flex in the tool when chasing.  I took one and cut about 2" off, then re-sharpened.  Works real well.  I also took the 2" cut off end and epoxied into a handle for small push work.  I try to keep my relief work shallow, around .015 - .020 at most.  If your tool is sharpened correctly, it almost cuts by itself with very little effort.

[Craig Wilcox]

I have used several over the years, and currently use the small Flex tool.  It takes a wonderful edge, and it is easy to use on the maple.

[alacran]

I'm with Craig and Flex tool. Been using them for 20 years. Easy to sharpen and hold an edge well. Have a couple of Pfeils but have never liked them as well as the Flex. I also have been using a mallet on them and have never injured them. I very seldom stab anything.

That is dense soft maple. It will slice but crushes if stabbed.

[tiswell]

Thanks to all who offered their thoughts! I have asked for a return on the one that I bought and actually changed gears a little and bought a Ramelson that should come today. I will keep the flexcut recommendations in mind though thanks! alacran, that is some handsome work!

                                                    Bill

[Mike Lyons]

I use a v tool less and less but I prefer them to be very small in height and width so I can see what I’m doing without big “ears” in the way.   So I’ve made my own. Take some small drill rod, or an annealed triangular file, file a long v groove in it, then shape the outside to match. Harden, temper, sharpen, put a handle on it. Good to go.

How do you anneal the file?  I’ve tried several times with a propane torch with no luck.

[TommyG]

I anneal files to almost an orange color, then submerge in a medium to cool.  I like using an old cast iron skillet on a hot plate filled with sand.  Bring it up to 450 degrees or so before annealing.  Once annealed, submerge in the sand and bring the temp down slow.  This is what works for me for files and 01 as well.  I don't think a propane torch will get you enough heat for steel.  I use a oxy-acetylene torch.

[rich pierce]

Propane will work.  Arrange 4 fire bricks to make a small oven, say 2 x 2 x 8”. Get after it with a wide mouth propane torch. Orange in 4 minutes max.

[alacran]

I heat my house with a wood stove. In the winter I through in a few files, when I build my night fire. In the morning I sift them out of the ashes. Always keep anneal files around that way.

[thecapgunkid]

Why is a V gouge so deep anyway?  On my current build I am thinking of grinding the earsa little.

Yes, no, maybe so?

[Craig Wilcox]

Just measured my Flex vee - 0.175" tall, less than 3/16".  I have cut with larger ones - the angle of the tool controls cutting depth, the degree spread controls width.  Mine is a 60 degree tool, I think.  And I keep it extremely sharp.  It will cut barely removing a sliver.  If I try really hard, it will easily go about 1/8" deep.  Most of the time my groove is less than 1/16" deep.

[tiswell]

Guys,
    I ordered the Ramelson 1mm parting vee chisel directly from them. $17 and free shipping. It came factory sharp, and required about ten minutes of stoning and stroping to cut test pieces very well. I have an old millers falls set with a palm vee chisel and it suffered from some of the same problems as a new made in England tool. In both cases the planes that form the inside vees had ripples in them. Possibly from a form grinding wheel used during manufacturing. If these surfaces are not dead flat, getting a cutting edge that is sharp is impossible. You will either have edges that vary from showing a reflective edge in spots and sharp in others or if you continue to stone you will then an edge that varies from sharp spots to spots where you have stoned too much and the edge collapses then the front face has undulations in it. I hope this makes sense.

    I have read some info on creating an abrasive charged brass lap to to fix the inconsistencies of those surfaces and reduce the radius at the vertex. If the manufacturer of the made in England tool won't honor an exchange or return I will pursue this.

    Thanks to all for their recommendations as well as info on making your own and file annealing.

                                                                                                                                                                                   Bill